5 Series :: 1992 - Front Brake Calipers Locking Up
Aug 29, 2004
Fairly recently acquired 1992 525i, 101,000 miles. Love the car and driving feel, don't mind putting the effort in but do not know where to start. She needed some work including both upper and lower control arm bushings. Replaced those over the last couple of weekends. This week the front brake calipers are locking up adding significant drag to the car, overheating the front brakes, smells and feels hot. Rear brakes appear to be fine. Seller had replaced brakes within the last 5,000 miles. I thought maybe he did not 'grease' the caliper guide pins and components, so I tried that and all was well for a few miles then back to the same locking brake calipers.
Is this brake caliper, brake cylinder, master cylinder or ABS related? Do I need to bleed the system? I cannot not imagine how but could replacing any of the front suspension components have had anything to do with this? I read on one thread about an interconnection (power assist) provided by the power steering pump and that 'over filling' the PS reservoir could cause such a problem. I did add fluid to the reservoir recently but the level is between the marks on the cap dip stick.
If caliper, or cylinder related is this DYI? How about the ABS? I have been looking for some good links to address this problem and repair procedures but no luck as yet.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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Since I have this car i noticed that the brake calipers (especially the front) are very noisy. This problem is caused by caliper's floating guides that become loose and the entire brake caliper shakes. I asked at a kia mechanic who answered to me to change the calipers support. For my trusted mechanic is useless because, according to him, this type of support have this problem (he tell me that also others car have this problem like older nissan micra) and sooner or later would return noisy.
Some time ago with greasing the floating guides i temporary solved but drying up over time the problem come back.
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I've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
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Tons of information on this and its possible. What? I'm still learning the search feature.
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I have a 99 150 4 wheel drive..5.4 ..auto...110.000 mile.....notice when driving in town in hot weather....when you are on and off the brake petal a lot....stop and go..etc.....the truck starts to hop or bounce....some....I got out ..and notice the right or passenger side front brake seems a lot hotter than the drivers side......but ...when it does that....the steering wheel doesn't pull to one side...when changing pads before ..notice no one side worse for ware than other...thinking it must be sticking brake calipers....they don't do this say on interstate driving even when on and off the petal some...
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I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
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Heard clunk (technicdal term) noise when you are in reverse and press the brake pedal. It is coming from the front end/brake area. I did not see a service bulletin for this.
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Driving home today I started smelling a burnt clutch smell!
Well since I have an automatic, I wasn't to worried until my 6 yr old gets out when we get home and says "DAD something stinks really bad out here!"
Get out and wow!! I have never had a caliper lock up on any vehicle I have ever owned! It stunk like I burnt a clutch out of a standard tranny!
So I start poking around and the left rear caliper is locked up, rotor is blue and you can hear it popping like a valve spring cooling down.
So my question is is there anything to look for other than the normal? I will be getting the brake system power bleed after I replace the caliper. I already checked the brake lines and there are no obvious issues. It is possible the rubber inner lining is toast.
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All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
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This is on a '91 Celica GT, 5SFE engine, with front disks and rear drums, and no ABS.
Whenever braking, the front passenger wheel seems to be doing much more of the braking work. In the wet, its very easy to lock up the front pass wheel under pretty mild braking. In the dry the same wheel is always the first to lock up, considerably before the drivers front, and much before they should, based on the deceleration.
I recently had to replace all the brake hoses, and a long run of hard brake line from the engine compartment back to the gas tank. I've bled the system multiple times and doublechecked all the connections, and cannot find any leaks. With no brakes applied, all wheels spin freely.
It seems like the braking circuit for the driver front wheel is not working as well as it should be. Is the passenger rear brake on the same circuit as the driver front? This seems like air still in the lines somewhere.
Could the master cylinder be causing distribution problems between the two circuits?
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My buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
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this is my brothers truck 05 f-150 4x4, i put brakes front and back and flushed the system about six months ago now. the other day when he was coming home from college the front passenger tire locked up. he drove it home and i went over took it apart nothing was sticking put it back together and it was fine. now today he call it stuck again so i just pulled it apart, pads are now purple from the heat, pins are free, caliper moves i put a small piece of wood in it and had him press the brakes the caliper moved out and i pused it back in, reinstalled everything and its not stuck no more. what do you think is causing this? my uncle says it could be the abs box acting up, when he bought the truck my dad made him buy the extended warrenty but he wont pay the 100 dollar deductible because this past winter we all went out in the two foot of snow and he got stuck so i pulled him out and our dad says thats what f$ucked his brakes up so now his is pissed. so how can i fix this for him? oh it only has 42k on it
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-2003 5.4 XLT. 178,xxx Disk brakes front & back.
Driving home from work, came to a long stop waiting for train. Started to drive away and my front right brake started to lock up pretty good on me. Drove it home as I was only a couple blocks away. Its just started to get above freezing here, and we've been between 0-20 degrees for a good stretch lately. That being said, I'm pretty sure it's my brake lines swelling with our "heat wave" of 35 degrees today. Also I've replaced the rear rotors & pads, as well as flushed the brake system a while back. Never replaced the front after purchasing used a while back, as they still had plenty of pad left.
Question : Purchased new front lines. Do the front calibers, "float" on pins like the back? (If so that may be my issue of the caliber getting stuck on the pins moving back and forth.)
At 178,xxx miles I'm going to replace the lines myself regardless of this outcome.
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I have a 92 Park Ave and the right front brake caliper will squeeze then release pressure even while holding the brake pedal down, which does not go to the floor, the left front brake is doing most of the stopping. I have bleed that caliper but still same problem. Is the ABS module proportioning wrong? By the way, the brake pads are brand new.
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I have two 2002 ford Excursions, both with 7.3, one 2WD and one 4WD. I have replaced ALL brake calipers with lifetime warranty Napa semi-calipers. It is sometimes an intermittent problem, I might have smoking brakes on one wheel (mostly the rears) one day and it will work fine for weeks or months and then do it again. It seems that about 1X per year I end up having to replace the calipers as they seize up and cause the brakes to smoke and cooks the caliper piston boot to a crisp.
I use high temp brake caliper grease (not sure if it is silicone based) and bleed the brake system about 1X per year because I thought the brake fluid was absorbing too much moisture. The slide pins come pre-greased, but I always check and re-grease them. Could I be putting too much grease onto the slide pins, Hydrolock?
I live in high humidity, in the middle of a rain forest near (about 5 miles away) a live volcano, Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii. Our area is very wet and we have acid raid and acid air (H2SO4 volcanic smog in the air) which corrodes everything, corroded pistons getting stuck?
I have not tried other brands of calipers because I cannot afford to keep buying new brands, I just trade in the toasted calipers at Napa for no charge. I have replaced all the rubber brake hoses and i upgraded to DOT4 (not silicone based) blue racing brake fluid that has a very high wet and dry boiling point. I am thinking of investing in stainless steel calipers, but those are pricey.
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After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.
2006 Touareg V6 Silver
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I just noticed that my black brake calipers look dull. I used my finger to check it and behold, the shine is back. Is there anyway i can clean the brake calipers without removing the wheels?
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I was cleaning my brake calipers and noticed that neither of my calipers have pad wear sensor connected to pads.
My 2012 GTi had sensor on the inner pad, but I cannot find one installed on my MKVii GTI. Looking for a photo of the caliper and the location of the sensor?
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Gen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
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Front caliper replacements--fwd? Person I bought this from said they'd just relined the brakes before I got it. After having it a week, I randomly checked torgue on lug nuts...a whopping 80 ft lbs. So now I have the vibrating rotors. When I back up I hear scraping like a bad set of bicycle brakes against an out of round rim. The pads are pretty thick. I bought new rotors and pads but I wonder if I shouldn't get calipers as well. This X likes to bite me in the butt--something simple is always about 5 times more complicated than anticipated.
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