Ford Excursion :: Burnt Clutch Smell - Rear Calipers Locking Up
Oct 28, 2013
Driving home today I started smelling a burnt clutch smell!
Well since I have an automatic, I wasn't to worried until my 6 yr old gets out when we get home and says "DAD something stinks really bad out here!"
Get out and wow!! I have never had a caliper lock up on any vehicle I have ever owned! It stunk like I burnt a clutch out of a standard tranny!
So I start poking around and the left rear caliper is locked up, rotor is blue and you can hear it popping like a valve spring cooling down.
So my question is is there anything to look for other than the normal? I will be getting the brake system power bleed after I replace the caliper. I already checked the brake lines and there are no obvious issues. It is possible the rubber inner lining is toast.
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Went down to the store and when I parked my car in the garage all I could smell is burnt clutch and its snowing and not like I could even beat on it. Car is stock besides a cat back .. Car has 11k on it ..
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I have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
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I just got a 2009 Corolla S back in October. Everything is great so far. Until last weekend when I was driving uphill on the streets of San Francisco where I noticed there's a distinct burnt rubber smell coming from the right rear wheel.
Have this issue after driving on a steep climb? My first oil change is coming up soon and I'll mention this for sure with my dealership. I checked the web and the forums here and nobody have seem to mention it yet. I have an auto transmission by the way.
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My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
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Fairly recently acquired 1992 525i, 101,000 miles. Love the car and driving feel, don't mind putting the effort in but do not know where to start. She needed some work including both upper and lower control arm bushings. Replaced those over the last couple of weekends. This week the front brake calipers are locking up adding significant drag to the car, overheating the front brakes, smells and feels hot. Rear brakes appear to be fine. Seller had replaced brakes within the last 5,000 miles. I thought maybe he did not 'grease' the caliper guide pins and components, so I tried that and all was well for a few miles then back to the same locking brake calipers.
Is this brake caliper, brake cylinder, master cylinder or ABS related? Do I need to bleed the system? I cannot not imagine how but could replacing any of the front suspension components have had anything to do with this? I read on one thread about an interconnection (power assist) provided by the power steering pump and that 'over filling' the PS reservoir could cause such a problem. I did add fluid to the reservoir recently but the level is between the marks on the cap dip stick.
If caliper, or cylinder related is this DYI? How about the ABS? I have been looking for some good links to address this problem and repair procedures but no luck as yet.
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I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
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I need more stopping power. Is there a front caliper setup that you guys are using to get better brake performance? Either a direct bolt-in swap from a heavier vehicle (F350??) or a completely new aftermarket setup??
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Just took a drive to Home Depot, hopped out of the excursion and got a whiff of burning brakes. I'm thinking i have a stuck caliper on the rear driver side just enough to cause the smell but not enough to slow acceleration or speed up deceleration. Should I just grease up the calipers?
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I have two 2002 ford Excursions, both with 7.3, one 2WD and one 4WD. I have replaced ALL brake calipers with lifetime warranty Napa semi-calipers. It is sometimes an intermittent problem, I might have smoking brakes on one wheel (mostly the rears) one day and it will work fine for weeks or months and then do it again. It seems that about 1X per year I end up having to replace the calipers as they seize up and cause the brakes to smoke and cooks the caliper piston boot to a crisp.
I use high temp brake caliper grease (not sure if it is silicone based) and bleed the brake system about 1X per year because I thought the brake fluid was absorbing too much moisture. The slide pins come pre-greased, but I always check and re-grease them. Could I be putting too much grease onto the slide pins, Hydrolock?
I live in high humidity, in the middle of a rain forest near (about 5 miles away) a live volcano, Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii. Our area is very wet and we have acid raid and acid air (H2SO4 volcanic smog in the air) which corrodes everything, corroded pistons getting stuck?
I have not tried other brands of calipers because I cannot afford to keep buying new brands, I just trade in the toasted calipers at Napa for no charge. I have replaced all the rubber brake hoses and i upgraded to DOT4 (not silicone based) blue racing brake fluid that has a very high wet and dry boiling point. I am thinking of investing in stainless steel calipers, but those are pricey.
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I have had my car since it rolled out of the plant. Along with other issues one of the most bothersome is a strange smell when I accelerate above 60 mph and it gets worse between 70 and 80mph. Additionally, when I pull into my garage after having smelled this smell on the freeway, I can smell it on the outside of my car.
My car has been in and out of the Ford dealership every month for many issues but this particular issue each time I bring it in. It wasn't until my most recent visit that they told me that with new cars one can occasionally smell this when undertaking a hard acceleration. Then I was asked if I have visited websites or asked questions on the web about this smell. But until now I didn't know what the smell was.
I have been on websites that say this is normal for new cars but if the smell gets worse over time there is a problem with the carburetor. I need to know exactly what to tell the Ford dealership when I go in again have them fix this problem. I also would like to know if this smell I smell is harmful to my children and I. And is it leaking the smell all the time but it is just over a certain MPH that I can smell it.
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I am getting a burning smell from the drivers side rear wheel. It does not seem to occur all of the time but when it does, when I get out of the truck I can smell it. We found its location just by smelling around the truck.
The brakes are not noticeably grinding and I don't recall ever getting a smell like this from brakes.
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Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?
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Front caliper replacements--fwd? Person I bought this from said they'd just relined the brakes before I got it. After having it a week, I randomly checked torgue on lug nuts...a whopping 80 ft lbs. So now I have the vibrating rotors. When I back up I hear scraping like a bad set of bicycle brakes against an out of round rim. The pads are pretty thick. I bought new rotors and pads but I wonder if I shouldn't get calipers as well. This X likes to bite me in the butt--something simple is always about 5 times more complicated than anticipated.
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After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
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2002 Excursion Limited V10, 96k miles...
History - 3 of 4 calipers have been replaced, to include the caliper on the suspect wheel, along with new brake lines. On occasion, while driving, i can smell the brakes. It emanates from the right rear wheel. I'm reluctant to think it's the caliper. At this point I'm thinking the him needs replaced. Any reason for this too is, on occasion the ABS light will flicker on.
I'm uncertain as to the cause of this because of it's intermittent nature - both the brake smell and the ABS light. When the ABS light comes on, it only flickers on, but when it goes out, the speedometer will drop to zero and come right back up. The truck has an electrical ghost, I know. For that matter, the door ajar light is always on, and the codes say it's all four door sensors - it's not the sensors, and it's not the GEM.
More importantly, though, I need to figure out the issue in the right rear wheel.
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1999 F-150 4.6 4R70W transmission 148,000 miles. My transmission was slipping so I changed fluid and filter. I believe the transmission fluid was changed one other time (I did not find the yellow plug in the pan). Transmission fluid smelled burnt. Added new fluid and Lucas treatment. Turned truck on and the battery light came on. Brief test drive and no change in transmission until almost home and then it would not go into gear. Lights were dim power windows wouldn't work. Reverse works. I assume it is time for a new transmission and the electrical issue is related to the transmission. I use the truck a lot and am leaning towards getting it fixed. I can't swap out transmission myself and would have to take it to a garage.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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So this morning I started my truck to move it out of the driveway and it sounded funny almost like I was running a ship vac under the hood. I moved it and shut it off and when I shut the truck off it sounded like screeching tires. I thought it was weird but chalked it up to it being cold. When I came home I started the truck again and I got the same vacuum noise. I figured I would let it run some since it was pretty cold out. All of a sudden I heard the noise stop so I went out and all I smelled was a burning smell but the truck was idling fine and running nice and quiet like it usually does. So I shut the truck off and then it wouldn't start again. So I tried to jump it still wouldn't start would barely try to crank. I crawled under smacked the starter a few times jumped it again and it started. I left it running for 20 mins after that no noise sounded fine. Any thoughts on what this could be?
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Noticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
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I have a 07 passat 2.0 wolfgang Ed. Recently the MIL light came on, engine fan is loud and shaking and a strong odor of burnt rubber coming from the passenger side of the engine, it's still under warranty can't get in with dealership for two weeks.
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