Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Burnt Antifreeze Smell / Leak In Tube At The Rear Of Engine
Jul 11, 2014
I have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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So this morning I started my truck to move it out of the driveway and it sounded funny almost like I was running a ship vac under the hood. I moved it and shut it off and when I shut the truck off it sounded like screeching tires. I thought it was weird but chalked it up to it being cold. When I came home I started the truck again and I got the same vacuum noise. I figured I would let it run some since it was pretty cold out. All of a sudden I heard the noise stop so I went out and all I smelled was a burning smell but the truck was idling fine and running nice and quiet like it usually does. So I shut the truck off and then it wouldn't start again. So I tried to jump it still wouldn't start would barely try to crank. I crawled under smacked the starter a few times jumped it again and it started. I left it running for 20 mins after that no noise sounded fine. Any thoughts on what this could be?
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Noticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
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My a/c vents smells musty/moldy when A/C is turned on, searched the FTE site and everyone says to check the A/C drain tube to make sure it is not clogged, I have searched all over top and bottom with a flashlight for the drain tube and swear there isn't one. I think it should be on the bottom of the condenser box but just do not see it. Where it is located? The vent smell is Awful!
2000 F350 Super Cab 7.3 Diesel
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I have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
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About a week ago I began smelling coolant after driving my 2012 F350 6.7. Yesterday I noticed a small amount of coolant on the ground and decided to take it to the dealer. As soon as I told the Service Manager what was going on he said......"You need to leave it......there is no doubt in my mind it needs a radiator". They pressure tested and and sure enough it does. He said they are replacing about 2-3 a month but there is no recall.
Here is where it gets fun. Apparently radiators fall off at 36,000 miles and are not included in the 100,000 Power Train Warranty. It gets better. The Radiator is on national back order for 5-6 weeks.
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I have been smelling raw exhaust in the cab, especially when the weather is colder and when standing still.
I took it to the dealer and in the process of fixing minor coolant and oil leaks on the turbo, they located a small exhaust leak with visible soot on the back side of the turbo.
They tell me that there is no way to repair it and that only Ford can rebuild or repair these turbos.
2011 SD 6.7
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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So i have a weird smell from the rear end, and ive had it for like 2 months. when it first happened it was a sticking caliper so i replaced that, the passenger side. the passenger side wheel would get really hot but now there isnt heat on either side, it does smell stronger on the passenger side however. i wouldnt call this a burning smell, and to tell you the truth i have no clue what the smell is related to. maybe a burning rubber smell would be the closest i could put it at, if only i could transmit smells on the internet. im thinking it has something to do with the rear diff fluid, as when i checked it last it was really old nasty and gunky, it probably hasnt been changed in a long time before i got the truck. so i topped it off and decided i would drain the diff this weekend because i didnt have time last weekend.
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The pads were replaced 5000 miles ago. Today the truck is acting hard to go, brakes are squealing, and I noticed a hot brake smell. I got home, grabbed a remote thermometer gun and the front rotors are 130 degrees, the back ones are 650 and 700 degrees! Super hot. I'm going to NAPA for new calipers and pads. I hope that fixes it.
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I got to work I parker her on the 6th floor of the parking garage. While unloading I smelt oil (but didn't act on it due to me running late) so I walked away towards the elevators. Forgot something from the truck and once turned back towards the truck noticed a MASSIVE oil spill underneath. Easily 2-4 qts ALL Over. Also had a trail of oil ALL the way down 6 floors out to the street. Truck had little to no oil left in the motor.
Truck runs/ran fine, numbers for ICP and HPOP all normal. Truck will still start fine and run fine. No codes, no surging, no rough idle nothing odd other than a MASSIVE and almost instant oil leaking once started.
About a week before this happened I changed the ICP and pigtail. I understand I used a cheaper version of it, and it just might be the ICP, but I stuck my hand back there, and felt just a little oil (im guessing residual from the previous faulty one) After I changed the ICP I noticed I will had oil leaking from somewhere. Is it possible that I just finally blew out what was still leaking?
I have an early 04 so 03 motor. Seems like no real wet oil spots before the turbo area. I'm planning on tearing her down friday, but would like to know really what to focus on. I thought the pressure switch, but specifically looked there while it was running. Oil is traveling from where the ICP is located (roughly) left (Driver side mostly) but will get some on right (Passenger side) of bell housing.
I tried looking under turbo and didnt see much wet under there. I can't imagine the ICP i just installed could be blown out and dumping THAT much oil. Within 10 seconds it's dripping heavy, within a minute of running there is a football size puddle on the ground. Will drip for another few minutes after shutoff.
I thought of oil filter and pressure sender but like I said couldn't see any wet pools of oil. What else under the turbo area could leak THAT much oil so quickly?
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Noticed something weird the other day I was driving into town and noticed it was getting hard to take off like the truck needed more power or like the ebrake was slightly on I get to my aunts house and notice that I can smell and feel heat coming off of the passenger side rear tire so I get closer and notice that the brake is locked up. what could cause this? and another weird thing about a year and half ago this same thing happened to my mother in law as she was driving the truck and me and my father in law replaced the brake caliper and replaced both rotors and pads on both rear tires and I used a good amount of grease on the slide pins so to keep the pins from seizing up. and now it locked up again what could cause this?
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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01 Superduty headlight burnt out. Its a sealed beam, haven't changed one of those for years. Most are bulbs.
Anyway I took all the screws I could see from around the headlight door and underneath it.
Headlights still in there as solid as when I started. What screws I seem to be missing?
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 - About a month ago I drove across town and then noticed a strong hot brake smell from the rear of the truck. When I drove home about 2 hours later it was gone and didn't return until today. Today I stopped at a light with my window down and got the same hot brake smell, looked in the mirror and saw smoke coming from my drive's side rear wheel.
I carefully drove home (the smoke was now gone, all i did was cycle the parking brake release a couple of times) and pulled the wheel off. Rotor was really hot but smooth and clean. Brake caliper and pads looked great (no sign of the pads glazing or dragging, dry as a bone). The inside of the rotor was wet with oil. The brake shoes and components were soaked with the same fluid/oil.
Does this sound like a typical hub seal issue? Excuse my ignorance since I haven't had the rear hubs apart before but does the gear oil in the rear diff go into the axle tubes? I know the front tubes are dry but I didn't know if the rears are different. The amount of fluid on the brakes seems to be more than the little bit that is inside the hub. I need to pick up the parts and rent/purchase a couple of tools to replace the seal so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm on the right track...
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The dipstick tube on my 5.4 snap and ive ordered a new one. it looks like it may not be to hard to replace.
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Last week I noticed my fogs stopped working. So I figured there may be a chance that they were burnt out. Hooked them straight to a battery and they work. Next I checked power at the plugs and no power. Checked the fuse and blown. The only fuse I had on me was a 25 amp fuse. Big mistake. Smoke started coming from the fuse box (palm to the forehead). Well it didn't blow the fuse but still nothing. I got power at the headlight switch and started tracing wires. From what I had read there is relay but it is inside the fuse box? Is this correct. I'm trying to pin point where the problem lies. There aren't any burnt up wires behind the fuse box and now I'm at a loss.
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If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
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2010 F250, what size tube do I need to fit on the brake bleeder screw? The tubes I have are all too big and the size marks are no longer legible.
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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