Ford Excursion :: Replacement Of Rear Differential Clutch Pack?
Feb 28, 2014
Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?
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Looking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
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Last week I broke the pinion and spider gears in in rear end. Well Im getting a used rear end rather than rebuidling mine. What is the gear ratio on the 97 F150 xlt 4.6l 4x4. I figured they would all be the same but my tag is missing on my diff and I was told by an auto parts store that there were a couple different ones.
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Some of you may have seen my recent post about raising the X. Its about 5" higher in the rear. Prior to raising the X, I had a vibration at around 65 to 70 mph. It felt like a tire was out of balance. Go a steady slower speed or a steady faster speed and it would go away.
Since raising the X, the vibration is gone, which I thought was cool. But now I have a "grind" type noise coming from the rear. I have to do all the testing on the freeway. There are no issues, no noises at regular street speeds.
On the freeway, when accelerating fairly hard up a hill from say 65 to 80, I can hear sort of a rumbly, grindy noise from the rear. Its not really loud but I can hear and feel it throughout the cab. If I coast at around 70-75 mph (just keep the speed the same) on flat ground, I can hear it come and go when the X is truly coasting for a few seconds. If I get up to say 85 and let off the gas, I can hear it as I decelerate until I get down to around 65.
This all only happens between say 75 and 90. I get no noise below 65-ish.
I had the drive shaft out over the weekend. The u-joints had no play and were free moving. I did feel the smallest play in the slip yoke, so I gave it a good greasing. That didn't change anything.
I'm guessing the problem is in the differential somewhere. I have not pulled the cover off yet to check the fluid.
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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I have a 7.3 2003 Excursion. Should I change the gearing in the rear differential to make the truck go faster at lower RPMs? I know that will decrease my towing capability.
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I just bought a 2003 F-150 4.6 2valve truck. How bad is the spark plug breaking problem in this engine? I need to replace a coil pack #8 cylinder and thought I better changes plugs while I am in there. Has about 110,000 on it
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first off this not my truck i am asking about it's my dads, he has a 2002 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4L and he replaces the coil packs all the time is there a way to prevent these from failing so often, and is there an easy way to get to the spark plug on the very back on the passenger side?
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I changed my rear axle grease a couple of weeks ago and now I see some fluid coming out of the pinion seal. Do you think I overfilled it or do I need a new seal?
How hard is it to replace the pinion seal, will I need a new crush washer and will it knock out the preload?
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So before I go buying 10 new coil packs I will test them first.....How many ohms should they read when tested with the meter. I am finding ranges 1.1-1.3. Old or new they are all reading the same. So look my plugs are AWFUL...changing this for sure.
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Driving home today I started smelling a burnt clutch smell!
Well since I have an automatic, I wasn't to worried until my 6 yr old gets out when we get home and says "DAD something stinks really bad out here!"
Get out and wow!! I have never had a caliper lock up on any vehicle I have ever owned! It stunk like I burnt a clutch out of a standard tranny!
So I start poking around and the left rear caliper is locked up, rotor is blue and you can hear it popping like a valve spring cooling down.
So my question is is there anything to look for other than the normal? I will be getting the brake system power bleed after I replace the caliper. I already checked the brake lines and there are no obvious issues. It is possible the rubber inner lining is toast.
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Need to replace coil pack on cylinder #3. What is the firing order? 2004 - V8, 52,000
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I'm looking around for coil packs and came across these: Granatelli Pro Series Extreme Coil Packs.....
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I had taken my engine into the shop and had to have to engine replaced, I would have done it myself and would have saved a bunch of money, however I did not have the time. So I had the same exact engine placed into my MK3 from an old Passet, the only issue I'm having now is the sounding of a misfire on one of the plugs..
Only thing is, all plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm thinking the Coil pack is on it's way out the door. The mechanic said it was the original coil pack so that would make sense. It's a 1997 2.8L 6cyl engine.. I'm looking into purchasing a new pack, and on a website that I had been using a lot lately, only had MK4 coil packs.. Can I replace an MK3 pack with an MK4? Would i have to change the plugs and wires again?
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The differential is howling like crazy on my 1993 E150 5.0 van, it has over 200k miles on it so I'm assuming the bearings need to be replaced! Before I tackle this major project is there any special tools I need or a special procedure I should use?
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i'm just wondering if i need to worry about preload and backlash if i just pull the carrier out and replace only the carrier bearings. would simply replacing the shims in there original side keep the specs where they should be with new bearings or would i have to completely dismantle the housing and start from scratch.
I only ask because you can move the entire carrier by hand and see the slack in the bearings but i don't seem to have any noises or vibrations coming from the rear end so i don't know if it's worth tearing into...
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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how hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
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2000 Excursion, Limited, 4X4, 6.8L, V10. My right front inner differential seal is leaking. I have researched and found out that I have to remove the pumpkin gear assembly from the front differential to get at the seal.
Do I need any special tools to get the seals seated back into the differential? Any instructions or a list of parts needed?
I went to fordparts.com and entered my vin number but it makes no reference to the parts of the front differential only the rear.
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I recently installed front and rear Mag-Hytek diff covers and the front had a small leak. I thought I had gouged the housing during removal of the factory cover, so I set aside time to remove the Mag-Hytek and repair the housing. I just removed the new cover and upon inspection, there is no gouge. There is a slight scratch, but not in the area of the leak.
Upon further inspection it appears as though the o-ring wasn't properly sealing. There is a slight rust coloring where the o-ring was seated against the housing, running from where the left lower spring shackle touches the diff housing, to the bottom of the housing. The rest of the o-ring route looks clear (no rusty coloring where the o-ring was seated).
Is it possible that the spring shackle is too close to the diff, causing the new cover to not be able to seal properly? (The truck had a lift on it when I bought it. When I installed the Bilsteins, I noted that the old shocks were installed very "amateurish", so I suppose it's possible the springs were as well.)
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