I have a 95 Chevy S10 pickup with the TBI motor, Z engine code, that has begun to not start on occasion. The engine cranks but does not fire at all everything else seems normal. This only seems to happen in the morning so might be cold related. If the truck starts I can drive it all day without any starting issues.
View 9 RepliesMy Chevy Cobalt will not start in cold weather. I don't think bad battery is the case here because it's started in warmer temperatures. What could be wrong??
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 RepliesIts a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 3.3 Sonata has begun acting up at a cold start up. The motor shakes violently and I have to cut it off and try again. It normally smooths out. This has happened intermittently two or three times in the past three years but happened twice today.
I am out of town at the moment and my wife has the car. She is worried about driving. I am thinking it is some type of sensor etc. If I knew what it was I could have her take it in and I could monitor the repair process.
Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
Every morning for the last 3 days I've gone to go warm up my car and each time i turn on the car only from a cold start up i hear this loud high pitch noise from the motor. If i turn the car off and restart it. It goes away and the car is at perfect idle. what is this and do i have some serious problems?
Is this true? If it's only on a cold start up, and then it goes away during normal driving, you have no need to fear....that's the Secondary Air Injection Pump that turns on during cold starts, and the plastic hose just needs to be replaced.. If so where is it located so i can replace this hose.
My outback started giving me intermittent extended crank starting problems on cold engine starts a few months ago. I brought it in first to repair shop and then dealership. Battery replaced, all systems checked out, computer update, camshaft sensor shim, and still I have the problem. What this could be?
View 19 RepliesI bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
View 2 Replies Here's what's happening:
I can have it on hot and be driving along, then it will start blowing cold air. I can move the temperature switch to cold then back to hot, and it'll start blowing hot air again.
Need to know if that would be temp or the motor? I don't want to just change parts randomly.
03 F250
I have. 2001 excursion with a 7.3l deisel. 167100 miles
It runs great but if it sets over night when the motor is cold it will not start.
You have to plug the block heater in for about an hour or more for it to start.
To me it seems like glow plugs are not working? It had new glow plugs out in from the po.
94 Chevy Caprice. LT1 turn over too long before it crank. The motor turn over like 3 or 4 seconds before it fire up. What's the problem?
View 5 RepliesThe 1999 Chevy Venture I have doesn't get enough power from the motor and lacks the force to accelerate, was told it could be with the sensors? Which sensors and where could they be located?
View 2 RepliesReplaced o-rings, injector cups, glow plugs and UVCH with all motorcraft parts 2 years ago and the ICP, IPR and resealed the HPOP last year. I use rotella 15W-40 oil. It has been hard to start when it is cold and runs rough with little power until warm for a few seasons now when it is cold outside. There are no fault codes or issues otherwise with the mostly stock truck. A buzz test when the engine is cold only #6 sounds strong and #8 isn't quite as bad as the others but the others are hardly audible.
Cause:
1) Can 6 to 7 injectors really go bad in 165k miles? If it is injectors I believe the Alliant look to be the way to go with type ADs?
2) Since it is like flipping a switch and the number of injectors effected is it possibly the 0.1% of the time it is the IDM when there is a miss and no SES. From my searching and swampdiesel if there is a miss and no SES it is 99.9% it is not the IDM or harness since it actively checks continuity.
2000 Chevy s10 ... The cold air works great however the heat doesn't seem to work at all. The defrost works but only cold air comes out even if I have the blend door on full heat. What the possibilities are. I couldn't find the blend door on the passenger side, I've checked the hoses and they seem fine, except for the following pic... Could this have to do with the loss of heat?
View 6 RepliesMy 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
View 4 Repliesblower motor was intermittent on my 08 prius, now only works when i spin it. Looking for a pdf or instructions on replacing it myself?
View 1 RepliesThe car in question is a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback. Just had the heads resurfaced and new gaskets, and timing belt. Runs great. Acceleration is good, stays cool. However, it has developed an intermittent knock/tapping. it sounds like its coming from the top end of motor. I added Marvel Mystery and the noise left for about a week but came back. Is this the beginning of the end? Or could it be a small problem involving the lifters/followers/valves?
View 9 RepliesI have started to have very intermittent problem with the blower fan. When I turn the fan on or auto, no fan blows.
If I hit the dash, over top of the display screen it will engage and start blowing.
2007 with 115k miles. I assume this is the blower motor dying a slow death.
I also assume this is not a DIY and will be expensive to fix.
I have a 2003 chevy venture...yesterday I went to start it and it acted like the battery was dead, but it still started. Then today, it wouldn't start at all. So I jumped it and it started. Took it to the store, and it wouldn't start again. So once again had to jump it. I brought it home and let it run for like 30 minutes. I went back out there and on the little screen it was saying security...turned it off and it wouldn't start again. But this time there was no clicking or anything.
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