Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Intermittent Hard Shifts When Moving From A Cold Start
May 7, 2016
I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
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Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
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I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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On my way home from work I noticed that my heater was blowing cold air. then I checked my gauges and noticed that the temp gauge was moving toward hot. pulled over on side of road car died on me. Husband pulled car home replaced top water hose. Now my car will not start.
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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I have a 2009 Accent. Last year I started to have a hard start issue, very intermittent. It eventually got worse this year.
During the cold, it was never an issue, but during the summer damp or rainy days it occurred quite frequently.
It would turn over, but never start. If I pressed the gas peddle while starting it up, it usually would start the 2nd or 3rd time.
I changed the usual start up components; plugs, ignition coils, cam shaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, and cleaned the throttle body.
None of those changes worked for the startup. When I removed my throttle body to fully clean it again, I noticed there was an extra air channel into the engine from the TB. Following this, I found the ISCA.
Removing, taking apart, and cleaning the idle speed control actuator seemed to have fixed the issue. It was so caked up with carbon deposit/build up, it couldn't fully rotate.
I used the throttle body cleaner to clean it out and then it began to spin freely (I removed it from the black sensor part first).
Since putting it back altogether, I haven't had a start up issue since.
Here are the notes from the service manual .....
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One morning my 09' Elantra didn't start. It sounded like it was only the starter running. I checked the spark and there wasn't any. I checked the fuel injector pulse and got nothing. Occasionally I could get it to start just by trying a bunch of times but never more then once in a row (or day for that matter).
I decided to replace the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The first time it took a bit but started up and ran nicely, till i turned it off. Now I'm back to a no start car and again with no spark or fuel injector pulse. It does feel like it's trying to turn over just a little bit now that i replaced the sensor.
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
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I am having problems starting my 2009 Elantra sedan. There are no error codes.
I get into the car and turn the ignition and it sounds like it is about to catch but as soon as I let go of the ignition it stops.
I found that if I wait a few minutes and try and give the pedal a few vigorous pumps it will start to catch, but more often than not, I have to go through this procedure several times before it starts.
This started this winter about 2 months ago and is still happening even as the weather has warmed up.
Plenty of juice to turn it over. I have replaced the spark plugs at 100,000 km with iridium plugs. I currently have 160,000 km on it.
There is plenty of gas in the car. Sounds to me like the gas isn't getting to the engine.
Is there some systematic method that I could use to isolate the problem?
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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Its a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
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I have a 2008 GC 6 speed transmission that has 55000 miles on it. When the engine and tranny is cold the transmission shifts very hard until it warms up. There are times when shifting from reverse to drive it shifts very hard. Also, the siding doors creak when driving over rough roads. Can they be adjusted?
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I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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I've read a lot on here that people have issues with their elentra when shifting gears, I have been having this issue for a while now and have been trying to trouble shoot the issue. (some make the mistake of using GL5 instead of GL4 or the master, slave cylinder are bad.
I've checked all of those symptoms and all is still well oh and my car is an 07 with 141k miles on it with the clutch replaced at 75k miles on it.) I went to a thicker gear oil from 75/85 to 75/90 which isn't much of a difference. It did work for a short time with the rough shifting gears but it's doing it again.
From 1st to 2nd (especially from initial start then after it warms up it's not as rough but still grinds and 3rd gear is on its way to grinding) I've started with all the small things and i'm considering rebuilding the transmissions synchronizes in the the input and output shafts for the gears.
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It will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and noticed after I start it when it's cold the rpm is about 1800rpm but doesn't drop. I never really payed attention on this car but my other cars would drop after a minute or so. Is this normal on the elantra or is something wrong?
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
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I recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
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my wife has an 06 with 77,xxx miles on it. as far as i know there has never been any tranny upkeep done on the vehicle. we have owned the care for approx 15 months. it doesnt act up all the time. it will shift real hard into reverse, feels like it is popping into it real bad. then at times it feels like it slips very little going into overdrive. and at times it will pop when shifted into drive. it is hard to predict, i thought maybe when it was warmed up and the fluid was warm it might not do this, but it does. i know nothing about this thing, the dealer wants me to bring it in so they can plug it in?
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I have a 2009 V6 Ltd with about 15k miles. It has always seemed to shift a little too hard from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd under light to medium throttle. Does this sound like a transmission ill that can be fixed by adjustments?
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