Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2008 - Hard To Start / Code P2626 For O2 Sensor
May 1, 2016
I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
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My 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
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I have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
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I am having problems starting my 2009 Elantra sedan. There are no error codes.
I get into the car and turn the ignition and it sounds like it is about to catch but as soon as I let go of the ignition it stops.
I found that if I wait a few minutes and try and give the pedal a few vigorous pumps it will start to catch, but more often than not, I have to go through this procedure several times before it starts.
This started this winter about 2 months ago and is still happening even as the weather has warmed up.
Plenty of juice to turn it over. I have replaced the spark plugs at 100,000 km with iridium plugs. I currently have 160,000 km on it.
There is plenty of gas in the car. Sounds to me like the gas isn't getting to the engine.
Is there some systematic method that I could use to isolate the problem?
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I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
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I've read a lot on here that people have issues with their elentra when shifting gears, I have been having this issue for a while now and have been trying to trouble shoot the issue. (some make the mistake of using GL5 instead of GL4 or the master, slave cylinder are bad.
I've checked all of those symptoms and all is still well oh and my car is an 07 with 141k miles on it with the clutch replaced at 75k miles on it.) I went to a thicker gear oil from 75/85 to 75/90 which isn't much of a difference. It did work for a short time with the rough shifting gears but it's doing it again.
From 1st to 2nd (especially from initial start then after it warms up it's not as rough but still grinds and 3rd gear is on its way to grinding) I've started with all the small things and i'm considering rebuilding the transmissions synchronizes in the the input and output shafts for the gears.
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I have a 2006 4.6L that's hard to start when it's relatively cold outside.
Normally, when it's warm outside, I can barely bump the starter, and it starts right up. But when it's cold outside, it usually takes 3 or 4 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. Even then, it has a really rough "about to die" idle, until about 10-15 seconds, and then it idles without a problem. Once it's running, it runs great.
It has 79k miles on it, and all I've done to it is put in a throttle body spacer, and a K&N filter. I've read a few posts from people that have had similar issues, that had K&N filters, but their problems have been more consistent. Mine only seems to happen when it's first started.
As far as I know, the plugs have never been changed, as with the COPs. I've heard about a vacuum line running to the throttle body may be the culprit, but haven't been able to find any more details on that, like where the line runs to, possible replacement part number for it, etc.
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I have a 2008 2.4L Sonata GLS with 96K mi. It is hard to start and idles rough. I cleaned some components and changed spark plugs. I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if it would reset and relearn settings. Took a 15 mi drive and read codes and P0016 was pending, it was still idling rough and acceleration was still under par. I then cleared the code. I purchased a new cam sensor and compared the Ohm readings between the old and new Cam position sensor. The Ohm readings were different by 50% so I assumed the old was indeed bad.
I installed the new sensor, repeated battery disconnect for 10 min, then restarted engine. It was still idling rough (maybe a little better) so I rechecked for codes. P0016 was still a pending code. I cleared the code and P0016 cam right back. The battery is good (no charging issues), timing chain is original (no noise). Is there a way to test the crank position sensor before buying a new one? I've also seen in posts the Oil Control Valve (OCV) affects timing and seems to be a problem for these vehicles, however I have not received that code (P0011). I can limp it to work but will have to take it in if I cannot solve this soon. If it ends up being a timing chain problem what ballpark price should I expect to pay to have it done.
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I have an 06 F-150 4x4 with the 5.4L Flex Fuel V-8. The truck has 133,000 miles on it. This morning, the truck was very hard to start. It took me 4-5 times of cranking the engine for 30 seconds or more before it started. Once it starts, it idles fine. Out on the road, the engine cuts out and the truck bucks pretty hard. The truck doesn't die, and the issue is intermittent. I changed the fuel filter less that 10,000 miles ago. The Check Engine Light has NOT come on. What could my problem be?
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
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About 2 weeks ago my Elantra began displaying the symptom of struggling to start after fueling. The check engine light came on with P0170/P0171 codes for fuel trim malfunction. Did my research and replaced the fuel pump. After this, the car struggled to start all the time until after a few days, while I was driving, the car struggled to accelerate and jerked like crazy trying to. Did more research and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. After this the car drove beautifully for about an hour and then again stopped accelerating, jerking like crazy and lost all speed. Error code P0441 Evaporative Emissions now was the only one on. I filled the gas tank (it had been low) and for another hour the car was fine and then the trouble started again. After turning it off the car would not start at all. Now I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but that did not fix it. All the relays and sensors look good. What to do next. It still won't start.
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I am getting a p0501 code (off my code reader) on my 2001 Elantra. I have already replaced the Speed sensor on top of the transaxle under the air filter. Driving into work today check engine light came back on and took to AutoZone. They are getting a P0501 code Sensor "A". They had no idea which sensor, sensor "A" was. I know there are 4 sensors on this car and have searched for other posts with no luck, all say replace speed sensor. Need to get this done to pass emissions.
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I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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I am new to Hyundai. I just picked up a 2003 Elantra and I'm doing a couple fixes to it. When I got it, the engine light was on and the code displayed said it had a bad camshaft position sensor. Is this a common issue with the car and is it an easy fix?
Also, I just installed new brake pads and a new battery. Now the battery and brake lights are on, although I know I didn't break anything. Could installing a new battery cause the two lights to come on?
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I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
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So I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
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So my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
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