Elantra XD (2001-06) :: CEL Has Been Coming On And Off - 2 Codes P2626 And P0139
Apr 16, 2013
My 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
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I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
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I am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
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I have a 2005 Elantra with about 160,000 miles on it and my CEL light has been coming on and off. I took it to Autozone and had them scan it, and the codes for P2237 and P0030, which are codes for oxygen sensors.
P2237- heated oxygen sensor pumping current control circuit-bank 1 sensor 1
P0030- heated oxygen sensor sensor- bank 1 sensor 1 heater control circuit fault
Which sensor is this, and can I clean it or should I just replace it?
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I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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I replaced the purge valve a while back, i just replaced the ccv and gas cap. The light is still on. Could a bad Ftps cause both those codes? Do i possibly have cracked/bad lines?
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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Its been cold here in CT for the past three days. It's been in the negatives... My engine light came on last night with a p2414 so I ran it, looks like front o2 sensor (could be a couple of things), so I cleared it and waited. Today it came back with p2195 and p2414. A different code for the same sensor. But my question is this. Before I replace the o2 sensor. Is there anything common for this car that would throw this code?
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Connected my obd2 to my car and found 3 fault codes 1 which repeated itself twice.. the codes are P0453 that repeated itself a couple times and the 3rd one is P0133.. I looked them up and see that one can be either bad grounding and also a bad oxygen sensor? and then the other mentions something about fuel and says something about fuel pressure sensor?
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I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
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I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
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My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
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Check engine light came on while driving home from work. The car seems to be running fine but I got the following codes p2195, p0420, p2096. I have a 2006 elantra with 184000 miles. Should I just replace the upstream oxygen sensor or is there a more likely problem? I rather not spend the money if this combination of codes is likely has a different cause but replacing the sensor appears to be the quickest and easiest solution.
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Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
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Have an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
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How to diagnose the following codes: U0D00, P0711, P2300.
U0D00 - What this means.
P0711 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance. How would I go about fixing this?
P2300 - Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low
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I have the following codes:
P0705
P1529
It looks like P1529 is caused by P0705. P0705 is the neutral range sensor. I purchased the sensor and replaced it. It is aligned correctly and I am still having the same CEL and codes.
What the car doing: The car jerks into reverse and drive. The dash does not indicate what gear I am in (PRNDL).
When it drives, acceleration is very slow. I believe the car is "stuck" in third gear. I've heard of fail safe mode?
What I did: This problem started when I changed my stereo. I did three bad things which may have caused this problem.
One, I had to put the car in "L" to get the dash off. I left it in "L" for a while then I tried starting the engine while it was still in "L".
Two, when I reinstalled the center console I swapped the wiring for the hazard lights and the rear windshield wiper (GT)
Three, I wired the dash illumination positive and negative together.
The cluster's backlight does not come on anymore and these codes came up. I checked all fuses and they are good. Where to look for a possible shorted wire that can be causing this?
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I have no problems pumping gas in, but the entire car cabin smells very strongly of gas after filling up. It seems to come from the area of the charcoal canister. No dripping of gas, no puddles... Did a smoke test, no leaks showed up anywhere (according to the mechanic). I do not want to start throwing parts at this to fix it - where should I start, and in what order should I throw parts? 2003 elantra GT sedan, 70k ....
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS, 160,000 miles. These two codes come up on ny diagnostic tool.
P0422
Main catalyst efficiency below threshold (bank 1)
No symptoms at all
P1529
Customer snapshot request
Symptoms
Car will shift hard into third gear and stay there without shifting at all regardless of speed. Shutting the car off and restarting will sometimes fix, but only temporary. When car runs normal, it runs fine and shifts good. At speeds around 40 it seems to kick back and forth between 3rd and overdrive as if it can't decide where to be. Tried replacing speed sensor, but new sensor did not fix problem.
Fuel Sys 1 CL
Fuel Sys 2 NA
Calc Load 18.4
ECT 201
STFT B1 0.0
LTFT B1 -2.3
MAP 8.6
Eng RPM 3351
Veh Speed 22
EV flashing
O flashing
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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