Elantra XD (2001-06) :: CEL Came On - P2195 / P0420 And P2096 Fault Codes
May 19, 2015
Check engine light came on while driving home from work. The car seems to be running fine but I got the following codes p2195, p0420, p2096. I have a 2006 elantra with 184000 miles. Should I just replace the upstream oxygen sensor or is there a more likely problem? I rather not spend the money if this combination of codes is likely has a different cause but replacing the sensor appears to be the quickest and easiest solution.
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Its been cold here in CT for the past three days. It's been in the negatives... My engine light came on last night with a p2414 so I ran it, looks like front o2 sensor (could be a couple of things), so I cleared it and waited. Today it came back with p2195 and p2414. A different code for the same sensor. But my question is this. Before I replace the o2 sensor. Is there anything common for this car that would throw this code?
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Connected my obd2 to my car and found 3 fault codes 1 which repeated itself twice.. the codes are P0453 that repeated itself a couple times and the 3rd one is P0133.. I looked them up and see that one can be either bad grounding and also a bad oxygen sensor? and then the other mentions something about fuel and says something about fuel pressure sensor?
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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Got a cel yesterday, got it checked out it read a P2096 fault code. The car runs fine, cleared the code it came back later in the day.
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In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
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As far as trouble shooting faults in the ABS - does it store fault codes and how can they be read ?
Daughter's 2007 Elantra has ABS symbol lit for a week, I took it to a car wash and used the high pressure spray to clean the wheel hub areas and that may have fixed the problem but interested if ABS fault codes are stored and can be read.
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P0420 code. Catalyst Efficiency Below Normal (Bank 1)
This was the explanation I got from autozone. First question is how serious is this? The car seems to drive fine and normal, but I just purchased this car about a month ago. The light turned off after the guy at autozone plugged in the scanner. I am sure it will come back on again after some driving. Is it ok to drive with it on?
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I bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
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The check Engine light on my 2005 Subaru Impreza is on and the codes that I have seen are P2096 and P0506. After my mechanic clears the code, I drive off, unknowingly that soon after my car would stall due to (which I later found out from Subaru) the computer having to re-learn to idle after clearing the code. My local Subaru dealer said I need to let the car idle in neutral for about 20 minutes, which I thought was an absurd answer, especially coming from Subaru who knew about the issue. My mechanic said they have seen it with other car makes (Honda or Toyota). I consider this to be a huge safety concern and the "idling" solution is unacceptable.
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Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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Both the P2195 (Oxygen sensor or A/F sensor stuck lean - bank 1 sensor 1) and P0031 (Oxygen sensor heater control circuit low - bank 1 sensor 1) were pulled on my 2009 LE (77K miles). Is it safe to assume that the upstream b1s1 sensor is the culprit?
I believe I've found the OE Denso part 234-9056 - is this the right one?
General question about O2 sensors - is it recommended to replace both the upstream and downstream at the same time, or is it not necessary to do that?
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I have a P2195 and P0171 ... 2006 Ranger 2.3 ... Drives fine but at idle..idle gets slower till it lopes. Changed O2 sensor,Cleaned air flow sensor,changed PCV valve, Can't find any leaks, could it be EGR...how do I check it ?
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Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel and want some info... I am switching out the air intake and thinking about the Banks package.. How does it can be compared? Also, I am dealing with an issue of a dual generator upper and lower fault codes.. I only have a single generator system and it is running strong as far as I can see.. When I start it shows 12.9 and then raises to 14 when running.. Stays there the entire run...
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I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
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I have a 06 Elantra having a problem with a p0441 code flow fault I changed purge valve and canister purge valve I don't know what else to do what else can I do to get it to go away permanent so I can get car inspected no codes for my car can be on but only 1 i/m
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Looked around and could not find info on 2 codes. 2004 Prius : P0420 and U0293. One I believe is lost communication with hybrid system. Are these serious?
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A few weeks back I got my ARK exhaust installed with no problems. Due to some personal reasons I had it removed and my stock exhaust reinstalled by a different shop over this past weekend. I've been driving it fine for the past few days but today I noticed the CEL on with codes P0420 and P0430. I hit up the shop to see what was up and he told me he didn't touch anything that should have caused this. What should I do....
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My 2003 Volvo S40 Turbo (140K miles) came back with the following during emissions inspection (and failed). Is it worth fixing?
P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold - bank 1 and P0015 "B" Camshaft position timing over retarded - bank 1....
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After changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
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