Accent LC (2000-05) :: Throwing Codes P0441 / P2096 And P0442 - Exhaust Leak?
Dec 18, 2012
Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
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2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
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I recently bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent 1.6L DOHC manual transmission hatchback with 124000 miles. So far the work I have done in the car include replacing front bank 02 sensor, new flex pipe, exhaust manifold replaced with a used OEM part. Everything is going great with the car except that the check engine light is on with the P0442 and I occasionally smell gas or exhaust fumes (not sure) while driving and it goes away. My combined mpg is only about 23mpg.
I replaced the gas cap with a brand new OEM part then cleared the CEL. However, after driving 90 miles, it went back on so I brought it to my mechanic who recommended a smoke test. After the smoke test, he said the charcoal canister and the diagnostic module needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing to fix the CEL code and if the code is related to me smelling fumes inside the car while driving. Also, I would like to know if there might be another problem causing this code instead of the charcoal canister or the diagnostic module.
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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I have an 05 accent that overheats on short rides, it smells of antifreeze when you pop the hood. There are no visible leaks, and the antifreeze level is good.
Also the check engine light is on and is outputting a P2096 code.
I'm stumped as to what this problem could be, at first I was thinking thermostat or some kind of clog or something like that, now I'm not so sure.
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I've been getting bad gas mileage for the past two years or so. I also get a fume smell when I run the car for a while. I have strong suspicion there might be a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets.
I'll be changing the exhaust manifold gasket and both exhaust flange gaskets. I'll also be changing both O2 sensors. The car runs well and smooth. It's just those two things.
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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I'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 90,300 miles. Last week check engine light came on and mechanic said it was P0440 and charcoal canister needed replacement. Did the repairs and 20 miles and two days later CEL is on again. Take it back to mechanic and codes this time are P0441 and P0446. I'm told I need a new gas cap, so it's replaced with new one from dealer. 15 miles later, CEL comes back on and I return to mechanic. This time it's reading all three codes, but they can't find anything wrong. The only parts not replaced are the vacuum seal valves, which mechanic says test as good. They reset lights and 15 miles later, the check engine light is back on. My mechanic is baffled. What the problem could be or what they should check? Car drives fine, but light coming on is annoying.
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I have a 2005 Accent GL with about 130k miles. When I start driving it, it seems fine for a little while, then it will throw itself into what I believe is 3rd gear and won't shift out of that for the remainder of the drive. The check engine light is also on now. I had my transmission flushed maybe 6 months prior to the first occurrence.
I took it to a transmission shop, they read the code, and then wanted $485 just to look at the transmission. I believe the code said "3rd gear incorrect ratio," but it could have been 4th gear too.
Is this a common issue? Is it likely a sensor or the transmission itself?
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So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
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Check engine light came on while driving home from work. The car seems to be running fine but I got the following codes p2195, p0420, p2096. I have a 2006 elantra with 184000 miles. Should I just replace the upstream oxygen sensor or is there a more likely problem? I rather not spend the money if this combination of codes is likely has a different cause but replacing the sensor appears to be the quickest and easiest solution.
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The check Engine light on my 2005 Subaru Impreza is on and the codes that I have seen are P2096 and P0506. After my mechanic clears the code, I drive off, unknowingly that soon after my car would stall due to (which I later found out from Subaru) the computer having to re-learn to idle after clearing the code. My local Subaru dealer said I need to let the car idle in neutral for about 20 minutes, which I thought was an absurd answer, especially coming from Subaru who knew about the issue. My mechanic said they have seen it with other car makes (Honda or Toyota). I consider this to be a huge safety concern and the "idling" solution is unacceptable.
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This is in regards to a 2007 Accent 111k miles, about 3 weeks or so .. I had a p0420 code, and replaced the downstream o2 sensor, and the CEL went off, and gas mileage went up. Now today I got p2096 code. Seems to mirror the p0420 code. So now I am thinking the catalytic converter.
So my questions are:
There are two catalytic converters right? one would be the exhaust manifold and the other would be half way through the exhaust system after the two o2 sensors?
Which should be replaced in regards to p2096?
Could anything else be causing this code?
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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I hope its just a gas cap issue. I just purchased one online (should arrive next week). I also tried to add Dielectric Grease to the rubber seal on the gas cap to soften it up a bit but to no avail. I hooked up my OBDII code reader to get the codes and it would only read with the car fully turned on and not with just the ACC like other cars without the smart key push button. Is that the right procedure?
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So one day when I was driving, the CEL comes on, and then I go to autozone to get my free diagnosis. I got codes: P0441 and P0171
My engine is running fine and everything else seems to be in order. However, I have to get a new canister purge valve and new oxygen sensors, in order to be in the clear.
For the Oxygen sensors, I have AN IDEA of where they're located; somewhere underneath the car, by the catalytic converter (the converter is in between the two connectors, apparently). I have yet to do this and would like some opinions on what to do for it.
For the Canister Purge Valve, I have no clue where to look. I pop open the hood and I notice a diagram with labels. Great, but there are just too many other pieces to look at...I do not know if it is visible as soon as I pop open the hood, or if I have to dig deeper, or even if I have to remove the fancy plastic thing that covers the engine.
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The check engine light on my sons 03 celica is on. Went to autozone and they got the codes for me. They are P0420, P0442, P0446, P0456. I realize that I should probably have an OBD11 reader. What steps do I take to fix this?
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