I've been getting bad gas mileage for the past two years or so. I also get a fume smell when I run the car for a while. I have strong suspicion there might be a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets.
I'll be changing the exhaust manifold gasket and both exhaust flange gaskets. I'll also be changing both O2 sensors. The car runs well and smooth. It's just those two things.
I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
View 7 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesCurrently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
Some questions I have regarding he bad gas mileage my car is getting. Up until winter, my car (2005 mk4 gli) was getting 300-330 miles to the tank. I thought was reasonable, about 150 to a half tank. The setup is pretty normal, apr stage 1 tune (87,89,93,100 octane) with bolt ons (upgraded n75, DV, things like that), a cat back exhaust (unsure of brand), 90k miles was just passed last week. Timing will be done in the spring.
The car has no stutters upon acceleration and idle is staying pretty consistent about 900 rpms. I know there is an exhaust leak, at the flex pipe as I seafoamed the car this fall and discovered that. My question is, which down pipe to you suggest to be the best for the money? I've seen a bunch of different brands, weather it be 42dd, ecs, places of the such.
Would it be cheaper and more efficient to just get a turbo back or stick with the cat back and stay happy? Also, I'm assuming if the leak is in the flex pipe, that the down pipe needs replaced all together. The car DID have a check engine light, for the leak. Since winter the cel has gone away and the gas mileage dropped drastically. When I get a new down pipe or fix the exhaust leak, I also want to change the rear O2 sensor. I believe personally this maybe causing my gas mileage info.
Lastly I have a fuel filter to replace the oem one that's been in there. The same thing happened to me last winter and when summer came around, the gas mileage went up to normal 300-330. I drove to h2oi and was getting well over 30 mpg. Now I'm lucky to get 18mpg.
Have to do a replacement and if so.. is removed the intake the only way to get at those stubs on the ex manifolds.
I thought it was the flex-pipe.. but after listening to the sound and getting an engine code for b1 s1 the leak has to be before the o2 senor for it to pop a code..
It sounds like a standard header leak from backing out bolts or a faulty gasket leak..
Recently the timing belt slipped and in turn shot several valves. After replacing the head and gaskets there is a small oil leak between the head and block. Can i tighten that head bolt a little? What is the best solution?
View 1 RepliesI recently bought an 01 accent 4d and it seems like i get really poor mileage. Its auto and i only get around 70-80 miles for half of a tank.
View 13 RepliesSo, I just got my turbo back from my pal Ruben at SoCal Porting (does good work fast and inexpensive) and, I have a question about the exhaust housing with the EBPV.
Is there a gasket that goes between the turbine housing and the adapter that the down pipe mounts to? And, if so, what is the part number for it? If it's steel to steel cool. If not, I'd prefer to put the OEM gasket in there versus permatex or something similar.
Pic of the compressor housing with a little port work....
Have a 2000 Alero. Mechanic says oil on ground is from leaking head gasket. $3000 to repair, or buy rebuilt engine for about the same. I thought head gasket leaks were into the coolant, not outside. Is this legit, including the cost? Valve cover gaskets were replaced earlier this year. Should I get another opinion? Other possible sources of leak?
View 2 RepliesReplaced this gasket that seems to be leaking oil. Looks simple enough, is there anything i should do or know before taking on this job? It's a 2002 Accent GS 1.5L ....
View 8 RepliesI borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
I have a real problem with 2000 Ranger, after changing the upper radiator hose and thermostat, I now have a pretty constant leak from the gasket between the thermostat body and engine. Appears to be something that is triggered by the thermostat opening, so whatever the leak, the thermostat is blocking it.
I've changed the gasket, cleaned the mounting surface as good as I could. Tried re-torquing the bolts, but on that score - what is the torque specs for the 2000 3.0 liter Ranger?
But ultimately, what the heck is wrong here? This should be a pretty brainless operation really. Am I tightening the connection too much and cracking the gasket? I guess that has just occurred to me, although the gasket is not as stiff as a typical fiber gasket is.
I have a leak from the oil pan gasket and oil coolant lines. From the research I have done, it looks like I have to lift the motor to change the oil pan gasket. Any way to get this done without lifting the motor??? 2000 f250 5.4 2wd....
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 2003 Hyundai Accent 1.6L DOHC manual transmission hatchback with 124000 miles. So far the work I have done in the car include replacing front bank 02 sensor, new flex pipe, exhaust manifold replaced with a used OEM part. Everything is going great with the car except that the check engine light is on with the P0442 and I occasionally smell gas or exhaust fumes (not sure) while driving and it goes away. My combined mpg is only about 23mpg.
I replaced the gas cap with a brand new OEM part then cleared the CEL. However, after driving 90 miles, it went back on so I brought it to my mechanic who recommended a smoke test. After the smoke test, he said the charcoal canister and the diagnostic module needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing to fix the CEL code and if the code is related to me smelling fumes inside the car while driving. Also, I would like to know if there might be another problem causing this code instead of the charcoal canister or the diagnostic module.
I have a 4dr 2005 Hyundai Accent, CL. It has 139,927 miles on it.
Today when I was accelerating onto the Hwy, a dashboard light came on. When I checked the manual it says "Malfunction Indicator Light". It says, This light illuminates when there is a malfunction of an exhaust gas related component and the system is not functioning properly so that the exhaust gas regulation valves are not satisfied.
2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
View 4 RepliesI have a problem that I cannot pinpoint. For at least 2 months now, I have noticed a strong odor almost like a diesel coming from the exhaust. I replaced the plugs, wires, air filter and cleaned out the throttle body but it remains. No check engine light and runs smooth. Also, noticed a significant loss of coolant from the overflow bottle. Filling it every 3 days. Took it out to inspect for holes or cracks and nothing. Not sure if all these are related. Every oil change the used oil smells like fuel. I was thinking rings going bad but don't think that would solve the coolant loss which is unseen. Everything under the hood is dry.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a accent, changed the oil then upon starting it back up it just pours out white smoke from the exhaust. i might have put a little too much oil in, would that cause the issue? It didn't happen before the oil change either.
View 6 RepliesIn my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.