Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2008 - Clutch Pedal Went Hard And Moving Was About Impossible
Oct 18, 2012
I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
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I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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95 ford ranger clutch pedal very hard when hot. Will not engage clutch. Ok after setting for 1 hour.
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I have a 2013 elantra, manual transmission. I have about 17k miles on it and it's 8months old. For some reason my clutch pedal is really loud. At 12k my power steering rack was replaced and I wanted the clutch addressed then but they didn't address it and claimed it was fine. Then at 16k my master cylinder was replaced. Within four hours the sounds came back. They are not addressing what is making the sound properly and claim it is okay to drive on it. My issue is with all of these crazy sounds that don't belong how am I supposed to tell if there is an issue with my clutch.
I drive about 30k a year. There could be damage happening and I will be expected to pay for it because it wasn't addressed because with my clutch making sounds I won't know if there is something abnormal, usually having a sound tells you that. I also get a pull to the side some times and when it happens I feel like I don't have control of my steering for a split second. I have owned two previous hyundai vehicles, and many standard vehicles and never had these sounds from a clutch. Whether it is the bushings or not it shouldn't be making sounds. Engineering should be trying to problem solve this, but instead hyundai hands me back a defective vehicle
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I've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
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I have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
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When I bought my ranger used, the clutch felt ok. But as a couple weeks had passed, it started to get hard to shift. The clutch doesn't slip at all so a friend of mine said there might be air in the system.
I would pump the clutch pedal a few times and then it would shift ok for a while, then back to shifting hard. I found the bleeder and had my son assist me with bleeding the system. Everything was fine at first but I made a big mistake and now i have no pedal feel at all.
My mistake was i didn't realize what I thought was the reservoir was not the actual reservoir. There was a black rubber thing in the reservoir that I filled with fluid. My mistake was I needed to take out this black rubber thing.
So now i am stuck with no pedal and don't know what to do. When I pulled out the black rubber thing, the reservoir was empty so i filled it and it bubbled for a second and then stopped. Tried pedal at this point and there is no feel at all. It just goes to floor with no effort.
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I drive a 2001 Elantra, 5 speed manual, about 135k km on it which is about 85k miles. Yesterday I felt the clutch pedal was engaging unusually low or was not as resistant to the weight of my leg as is usual. I could drive it without much trouble though.
This morning the pedal went all the way to the floor with virtually no pressure exerted on my half, and shifting gears was pretty much impossible without excessive force, so I parked it and walked to work instead. It felt like I was shifting gears without stepping down on the pedal, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor.
I then checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was at the max, but it was black like oil. I've done some reading and I'm thinking replacing or cleaning the master and slave cylinders could work. Am I way off?
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I have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
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This is unusual. After driving into town for new tires, the clutch pedal was hard and I could not depress it after the tire tech parked the truck. It did finally depress with a pop, though the pedal functioned there after the clutch did not function properly.
At times it seemed to be ok at other times it seemed weak. I stopped by Autozone and checked the fluid, seemed low and I added some. Continued home not completely confident that I would make it. Had to make one stop along the way.
Once again the clutch pedal was stuck at the top and would not depress. I finally slid the safety switch up the clutch shaft to start the truck, when the engine started the pedal depressed. I was able to continue home but the clutch is not functioning properly.
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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Yesterday I was driving home and my clutch started acting up. To start I was unable to press the pedal. The pedal was super hard, then let up but didn't feel right.
I removed the slave and the pedal went down fine. Both the master and the slave have no leaking and fluid levels are good. I haven't been able to have a buddy look at the levels when I press the clutch, but....
Here is a little more, the car shifts fine with the car off, it goes into all the gears, but with the car on it will not shift into gear. Also there is a light grinding noise when I let the clutch out..
I ordered a clutch kit already, but don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to, I would love to hear the issue is with the master or slave.....
2005 Hyundai accent with 138,000 miles
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2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
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Just noticed a clicking noise every time I push the clutch pedal down, I had my wife push the pedal while I listened under the hood and no noise it's coming from the clutch assembly under the dash! It's a 2013 only 4000km's on it so it's not like anything should be worn from over use etc. It's when I had the radio off driving I heard it, not super loud but more curiosity if it's normal noise from a clutch assembly.
As well the odd time I hear well my wife heard and pointed it out to me, when I push the brake pedal (more when we get in the car in the morning after sitting overnight) the same kinda sound more like when brake pad's are gently popping loose I guess you could say!? Like I said its mainly only after sitting for awhile, but we did hear it the odd time just as I go to slow down and only a quick 'click' again not deadly or anything more annoying that the car is brand new and we went brand new cause we were tired of creepy older cars we'd previously driven! I'm wondering if that may be exactly why its doing it since its new and need's to be used a bit to loosen up, this is the actually the first brand new no previous drivers car I've had!
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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I have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
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Just bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
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I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
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Recently, I clutched, the pedal went down, thought I heard something a little crunchy and then the pedal "popped" up. The clutch has been different since. Sometimes difficult to get in and out of gear. Have to double clutch. The first inch and a half of pedal has no resistance. When I release the pedal it pops up. You can hear it. It never stays down. I don't have to bring it up. Local garage thought it was something in the clutch itself. Otherwise clutch is tight. No slippage. Could it be in the hydraulics? Do we have to pull tranny to replace slave? It's not getting better and I want to fix before it gets worse. Car has about 100,000 miles.
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