Nissan - 300zx :: Clutch Pedal Very Hard And Cannot Put It In 1st And Reverse Gear
Mar 3, 2013
I have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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I have a 1990 300ZX and the recirculation door for cooling and heating is not working. When I push the recirculate button, the light lights up so I assume the switch is working. Where is the door and how do I get to it to fix it. I'm guessing it is somehow jammed.
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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My son has a 1985 Nissan 300 ZX. The car has practically been rebuilt. Several mornings a week the car is dead. We have replaced many major car parts over the past 2 years like the ignition switch, alternator, battery, clutch, rotars, brakes and breaks. We even pulled the fuse to the security light as that was drawing many amps when the car was off thinking that was what was causing the dead battery.
If I had not seen this with my own eyes I would not believe it. The car will be parked, shut off for hours and the tail lights mysteriously turn on. The headlights are not coming on, just the tail lights They just slowly come on. We have witnessed this 3 times and have no clue what the problem could be. We walk over and turn the lights on then fully then off. However, the lights are in an off position to begin with.
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The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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Could my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
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For a little wile now, I have had a growling noise when I depress the clutch pedal with the engine running. It mostly does it when the truck is cold and goes away after a few uses but was getting worse and taking longer to go away. The transmission shifts normally, the clutch operates normally and it does not make the noise if I put the transmission in neutral and let the clutch out. So I'm thinking dry throw out bearing.
I did an oil change Monday, and while it was up on the ramps, I decided to check the transmission oil level, I mean its got a 181k on it so its about time to check, right. Bone dry. I put about 2 qts of gear oil in the transmission that the service manual says has a 4 1/4 pint capacity. I took it out for a drive today and the noise is gone. Go figure.
I only drive the truck one or two times a week, sometimes less so in a couple of weeks I will check the transmission again for a leak, but there was no sign of a leak when I was under there Monday. But is still shifts smoothly, makes no noise.
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95 ford ranger clutch pedal very hard when hot. Will not engage clutch. Ok after setting for 1 hour.
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I've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
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When I bought my ranger used, the clutch felt ok. But as a couple weeks had passed, it started to get hard to shift. The clutch doesn't slip at all so a friend of mine said there might be air in the system.
I would pump the clutch pedal a few times and then it would shift ok for a while, then back to shifting hard. I found the bleeder and had my son assist me with bleeding the system. Everything was fine at first but I made a big mistake and now i have no pedal feel at all.
My mistake was i didn't realize what I thought was the reservoir was not the actual reservoir. There was a black rubber thing in the reservoir that I filled with fluid. My mistake was I needed to take out this black rubber thing.
So now i am stuck with no pedal and don't know what to do. When I pulled out the black rubber thing, the reservoir was empty so i filled it and it bubbled for a second and then stopped. Tried pedal at this point and there is no feel at all. It just goes to floor with no effort.
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I have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
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I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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This is unusual. After driving into town for new tires, the clutch pedal was hard and I could not depress it after the tire tech parked the truck. It did finally depress with a pop, though the pedal functioned there after the clutch did not function properly.
At times it seemed to be ok at other times it seemed weak. I stopped by Autozone and checked the fluid, seemed low and I added some. Continued home not completely confident that I would make it. Had to make one stop along the way.
Once again the clutch pedal was stuck at the top and would not depress. I finally slid the safety switch up the clutch shaft to start the truck, when the engine started the pedal depressed. I was able to continue home but the clutch is not functioning properly.
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I'm not very mechanical when it comes to cars. I have never had any clutch issue with my car. I arrived to work yesterday fine. When I started to leave it was incredibly hard to get into reverse and I had to force shifting after I left and the clutch had also lost all resistance and I could easily push it all the way to the ground. What could be a cause of the clutch always working perfect including the last time you drove it, and then 8 hours later you start up and it has done a 180. The fluid level is fine. I would presume if my clutch had went I have have slowly noticed it going.
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1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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Yesterday I was driving home and my clutch started acting up. To start I was unable to press the pedal. The pedal was super hard, then let up but didn't feel right.
I removed the slave and the pedal went down fine. Both the master and the slave have no leaking and fluid levels are good. I haven't been able to have a buddy look at the levels when I press the clutch, but....
Here is a little more, the car shifts fine with the car off, it goes into all the gears, but with the car on it will not shift into gear. Also there is a light grinding noise when I let the clutch out..
I ordered a clutch kit already, but don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to, I would love to hear the issue is with the master or slave.....
2005 Hyundai accent with 138,000 miles
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2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
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