Repair - Nissan - 300zx - Transmissions :: 1985 - Slight Hesitation While Driving At Above 65mph On Highway
Jun 11, 2011
The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
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My son has a 1985 Nissan 300 ZX. The car has practically been rebuilt. Several mornings a week the car is dead. We have replaced many major car parts over the past 2 years like the ignition switch, alternator, battery, clutch, rotars, brakes and breaks. We even pulled the fuse to the security light as that was drawing many amps when the car was off thinking that was what was causing the dead battery.
If I had not seen this with my own eyes I would not believe it. The car will be parked, shut off for hours and the tail lights mysteriously turn on. The headlights are not coming on, just the tail lights They just slowly come on. We have witnessed this 3 times and have no clue what the problem could be. We walk over and turn the lights on then fully then off. However, the lights are in an off position to begin with.
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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I was driving my 99 honda civic at a steady 65mph on the highway for about 10 minutes. I was not accelerating or anything, when it cut out totally as if I turned off the engine. When I would step on the gas (still moving), it would not even hit/sputter or anything. I pulled off to the side of the road and immediately tried to restart... nothing.
Two minutes later, I try to restart, and it started right up. Get going another 5 minutes, and it does the same thing. This time I only waited about 30 seconds, then it started up again, but it 'missed' a couple of times just before it started up. Then it was fine for the rest of the drive to work, and hasn't stalled since (one week).
However, the check engine light came on the next day after the stalling episode, and has also been on since. The code is P0420 (which says that the O2 sensor before and after the catalytic converter read similar, indicating a bad catalytic converter). I'm not sure if this is, however, a downstream effect/ symptom of a larger problem (that this is not the cause, but the effect of a larger problem?)
Here are some extra facts that may be relevant, or may be totally random:
I occasionally catch a whiff of egg like smell (smells like it's running rich, and maybe it is heating the catalytic converter)
It seems to be functioning fine (no loss of power)... the gas mileage even seems OK-I filled up with a new tank of gas the night before the drive (I've since filled up again)-There was an ignition recall, that I did NOT have done (I just found out about it -The car is pretty beat up: 170K miles-Gas gage quit working about a month ago... always reads full.
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I'm having a sight hesitation @ around 4100rpm when getting on the highway, it is not noticeable in 1st or second, a bit in 3rd, and 4th though. It seems almost like the acceleration stops for 1/2 a second then continues normally.
2007 2.0T FSI, automatic. 71,000KM ( like 40k miles?)
New plugs(problem existed b4 plugs)
new air filter ( K&N Drop in )
new oil & was just seafoamed.
This problem was there before all of that too. What it could be?
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I have a 1990 300ZX and the recirculation door for cooling and heating is not working. When I push the recirculate button, the light lights up so I assume the switch is working. Where is the door and how do I get to it to fix it. I'm guessing it is somehow jammed.
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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I have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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When highway driving with the AC on, on a slight incline, my CRv hesitates, and you really have to "punch" the accelerator to maintain speed, which in turn causes a very noticable increase. It's almost like there's a dead spot in the accelerator. Am I destined to just live with this, or can it be remedied?
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I recently got a used 2000 silverado 1500 ext. cab with a short bed. Has a 5.3L engine. I noticed it has vibrations at highway speeds. I thought it was the crappy tires on it so I had all the tires replaced and balanced. Now it has all new tires and does the same thing. Runs really smooth all the way up to 40mph and then the vibrations begins. It is mostly felt in the steering/dash and pedals. A little more pronounced on accel. but vibrates if your on the gas on not.
Once your reach 65mph, the vibrations stop. I have also noticed that asphalt makes it vibrates more. When I go over concrete overpasses in the problem area of 40 to 65mph it smooths out. I took a look under the truck and saw nothing obvious. U joints feel tight and no play, seen it had weights which appeared welded onto the one piece drive shaft.
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The last couple thousand of miles I have spent fighting vibrations (especially in steering wheel. Symptoms: When you hit the 65mph mark I am getting slight vibration in the steering wheel. Also passenger chair start shaking substantially more. I assume the shaking is of the whole car, but I feel it the most through the wheel and probably where my brain focuses on.
So far to correct the problem:
- Dealer replaced couple tires which showed excessive weight (the truck came with Michelin HP)
- Wheels were scratched through not careful person, so they have replaced them with a set from a demo
- Dealer balanced wheels 3+ times and done alignment
- Problem was not going away, so I have decided to try different tires and have bough new Michelin MS2
- Discount Tire has done several wheel balances, but seemed that it worked for a day or so
- Meantime also bolts holding lug nuts broke three times while tightening them (don't know if the same one but at three different occasions). Supposedly they have used spec pressure of 80lbs (83 Lexus recommended)
Dealer concentrates on wheel balancing, and is not taking action outside of this. I told the dealer that the problem cannot be wheel related. I think the cause could be one of the three (previous GX470 issues found on internet):
- Wheel bearing in the hub issue
- Drive shaft
- Transmission excluded as vibs are in all gears
- something with steering.
I am awaiting a call from the dealer when the FTS person will at the dealer again so he can trouble shoot the car.
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my 2006 GX has 95000 miles and recently i've noticed a slight hesitation followed by a slight surge in speed while driving at a constant speed. it almost feels like i'm pushing the accelerator then releasing it. its a very mild difference but i'm guessing tranny and have 5k left on my warranty. it occurs at a variety of different speeds but most noticeable at about 35-40mph and up around 55mph.
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I have a 2008 Suzuki forenza, 125,000 miles. I commute 5 days a week one hour each way. The check engine light came on, then after a day it went off. I filled it up with gas and as soon as I started it up, the light came on again. Then an hour later, It went off. My brother came to pick me up from work, it was on (he notices nothing). Took it to Auto Zone and the code came up Throttle Body. Went to get a new gas cap & air filter, the code went off.
Changed both. (The gas cap was clicking but not staying on.) Drove to the mechanic. They said they cleared the code but do not see anything wrong and to bring it back if it comes on again. For 348 miles, it drove fine, parked it in the drive way. I went to start it this morning to move out of the driveway, the light is on again. There is a sight hesitation while driving; the mechanic thought it might be a spark plug. I have had the car a year. The hesitation comes and goes. I plan on getting the plugs changed next week. I started using Lucas with every fill up. So far have used it 3 times.
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Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
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For the last few months while I'm driving on the highway my car will misfire and the check engine light comes on. Every time is the same two codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensor failure. I've replaced the easier one to get to but it still happens. A friend suggested to clean my spark plugs...
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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I have Nissan Tiida 2009, I recently replaced the compressor, The AC is blowing cold air now, if the car is standing still and I turn the AC on, everything works the way it is supposed to I have checked the fan speed also, all is ok but once I start driving on the main Highway after a while it feels like the Ac is not throwing enough air, its not like it stops cooling because if I put my hand near the vents, It is still cold around that area but at that point even if I increase the fan speed to max the throw of air remain the same. it becomes so less that I start sweating. What could be the problem here.
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(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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