Nissan - Tiida :: 2009 - A/C Won't Blowing Cold Air While Driving On Highway?
Aug 4, 2015
I have Nissan Tiida 2009, I recently replaced the compressor, The AC is blowing cold air now, if the car is standing still and I turn the AC on, everything works the way it is supposed to I have checked the fan speed also, all is ok but once I start driving on the main Highway after a while it feels like the Ac is not throwing enough air, its not like it stops cooling because if I put my hand near the vents, It is still cold around that area but at that point even if I increase the fan speed to max the throw of air remain the same. it becomes so less that I start sweating. What could be the problem here.
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I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra 4 clyd. My AC will stop blowing cold air after driving for about 15-20 minutes. The light on the controls is still on and seems to be running. If I turn off the AC switch and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and turn it back on (can hear the compressor kick on) it will blow cold air again for another 15-20 minutes or sometimes less. If I turn the switch too early the compressor won't turn on. I've checked the levels on the freon and had the thermal amplifier replaced. Also the fan clutch was replaced, which I was told by the mechanic that would fix the AC problem.
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For the last few months while I'm driving on the highway my car will misfire and the check engine light comes on. Every time is the same two codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensor failure. I've replaced the easier one to get to but it still happens. A friend suggested to clean my spark plugs...
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A few weeks ago my car started overheating and blowing cold air while I was on the highway. I took it to my mechanic and he found that the radiator was leaking. Two weeks later the car was overheating and the heater was blowing cold air when I was on the highway. I had it towed to the same mechanic and the car wouldn't overheat nor would it blow cold air. He drove it all around and on the highway but couldn't get the problems I was having to occur. Now I have intermittent heat. Sometimes I will start the car and it will take 20+ minutes for the heat to blow warm air. Other times the heat works fine for a while and then starts blowing cold air. Usually when it starts blowing cold air I begin to smell a sweet odor, possibly coolant. It hasn't overheated again, but I have stayed off the highway.
I just had the thermostat changed, and the upper radiator hose warms up quickly. When the heater is blowing cold air, one or both of the hoses connecting to the heater core do not warm up. Sometimes it's both hoses, other times the hose going in is hot but the other hose is cool. My mechanic seems to think that the head gasket is leaking air into the system, and that the air is preventing the coolant/water from being properly transported throughout the car. He did a pressure test to see if it was the head gasket when I brought the car in but it wasn't conclusive. Does it sound like a head gasket leak, or could it be a blocked heater core, or a weak water pump? So far I haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but I could be missing something.
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My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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Have a 2007 jetta. A/C works well. However when highway driving the air stops blowing into cabin as if someone had shut all vents. When slow down, problem goes away. Took it to dealer and they have no clue.
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I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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I am having trouble with my Chevrolet Aveo 2009 A/C. After driving for a while on the highway, the A/C stops blowing much air at low fan and when I increase the fan speed, it blows more air while making a whistling noise but not as much air as it usually does on that same fan speed. The noise starts going away after a while and it blows as much air as it should.I noticed that it happens more when I keep accelerating every now and then on the highway.
It does not happen as much when I am driving on a constant speed. I took it to the dealership and they said the filter was dirty and they found a leak on the vaporizer cap, fixed those but nothing changed! What might be the cause? I was researching the issue and came across this ""TPS (throttle position sensor) gives the WOT (wide open throttle) signal to the PCM to momentarily cut off power to the A/C clutch which disengages the A/C"...Could that be the issue?
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The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
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I have a 1999 Nissan Pathfinder. It's 4wd with a manual transmission. I was getting an intermittent problem with vibrations coming from the front passenger side wheel when driving on the highway. They recently got worse and I'd notice a slight burning smell coming from the wheel area. There would also occasionally be a metallic clicking/plonking noise coming from the wheel and a slight hissing sound. I took it into a mechanic (not my regular mechanic because he was gone for the week) and they said it has something to do with the transfer case. They said they took the front right tire off after putting it on the rack in neutral, and they couldn't get the to spin freely. They said it could be something with the drive train or transfer case, but they weren't sure without taking it apart. They said it could be something to do with the 4wd not disengaging, but again, they're not sure.
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Basically when I have it cranked on high (level 4) it feels like its blowing on level 2. some times when I start the car it doesn't even turn on. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. Is it wiring or could it be AC Blower fan or something else.
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I do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
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I have a 2010 F150 and now only cold air comes out of the vents. I have not changed the thermostat since the truck is not running hot. I have read that the blend door may be stuck. Where the blend door is on the 2010.
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My husband has a 2009 Chevy Aveo, he's had several issues lately, split radiator hoses, an oil pan issue and now he says it's decelerating when he's driving on the highway, the engine doesn't rev when he presses the gas pedal, we can't afford a new car but he's afraid to drive an iffy car through the winter on a somewhat long commute?
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I have a 2012 truck that the AC wasn't blowing cold air this summer so I took it in and they said nothing was wrong... Took back in and they replaced vent control... worked a little bit. Fall came and my windows fog up and really never clears up so I take it in and they said it is blowing hot air but I told them that isn't the problem but the moister in the cab is the problem. I feel I'm getting the run around.
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So my alternator went bad last week so I replaced it. Tested it yesterday and it was charging fine and drove it to work. I got the esp light on after driving 10 miles everytime I start it. So I go start it and it turns over slow but starts. Before I got to a friends house I was getting on it from a stop pretty hard and noticed the ac stopped blowing cold air. I go to leave a few hours later and it barely turns over and died shortly after moving. Took a while to jump it and the battery light blinked the whole way home. THEN, I go inside and hear something about 5 minutes later and my stereo is on! Also ABS light is on. Could a dead battery do all this?
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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My 2009 sonata started having issues with slight up and down accelerations while cruising and the check engine light would come on Then during start up the engine would accelerate up and down about 1500 rpms. I have taken it to two dealers neither could find anything wrong and said their was no record of an event on the computer. Now the car is stalling while driving, once at highway speed. It has happened three time this week. After coming to a stop, I wait a few minutes and the car starts up like their is nothing wrong. The engine light comes on for a while.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
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I have a problem with my Lariat blowing cold air on the driver's side. It happened last weekend when it was snowing hard and drove around town for a couple hours with defrost on. After I got out on the interstate the cold air was blowing in through the vent on the driver's door and down by my feet. It was -4 driving home. I though that some ice may have gotten in and jammed a damper open allowing cold air in. I took the truck in and thawed it out and the same thing happens. Cold air out of drivers side and hot air out of the passengers side. The truck has the dual heat/cool setup and it seems as if the driver's side is stuck on cold but I have it set on just driver. It was only -25 this morning.
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