Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Slight Miss / Hesitation - Power Loss When Driving Constant At 25 - 30 MPH Occasionally
Apr 18, 2015
Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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my 2006 GX has 95000 miles and recently i've noticed a slight hesitation followed by a slight surge in speed while driving at a constant speed. it almost feels like i'm pushing the accelerator then releasing it. its a very mild difference but i'm guessing tranny and have 5k left on my warranty. it occurs at a variety of different speeds but most noticeable at about 35-40mph and up around 55mph.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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This last April I was towing my trailer back from camping approx 125 miles when I detected a loss of power and a slight miss. I managed to make it home. It wasn't until I made it home that the engine finally started coding. Miss on start, a couple of cylinders missing and output shaft speed sensor circuit failure. So naturally, I decided to do what I felt needed done anyways, change all coils and plugs. Oddly the problem got worse to the point where I almost didn't make it home after test driving it, it kept stalling out and was difficult to keep running.
After some research and advice from others, I started replacing some components; MAF sensor,IAC valve, output shaft speed sensor. Nothing. In fact now the truck wont move, I start it up it idles a little rough, but then I put it into gear and with in seconds she shuts her self down. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure and it is in specs. I've now had it towed to two mechanics neither of which have any solution. They've put expensive computers up to it and still nothing. I really do not know what to do at this point. Lastly the only code that continues to come up is P0720, output shaft speed sensor circuit failure, I really miss my truck!
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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I have a 2004 f150 with 135000 miles. Bought it a few months ago. I notice after the truck is up to operating temperature it seems to have a slight miss, you can kind of feel it when sitting in the truck. Cant really hear it. Outside the truck I am hearing a ticking sound. I have changed the spark plugs on the passenger side, because that's where the ticking sound was coming from.
Come to find out the last spark plug in the back was finger loose. Got them changed, on that side. Still have the miss after warmed up along with the ticking. Few weeks fast forward I put all 8 new COP on. Same results. I also have changed the oil and filter both with Motorcraft. Where I could look? I also have a 1 year unlimited mile power-train warranty.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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I have a mysterious problem with the BMW 335d concerning the engine. The dealer detected a "miss" in the cylinders based on the check engine light, but there is no real drive problem. However, I have noticed a slight hesitation and noticeable reduction is fuel mileage. They don't really know what it is but suggested replacing the fuel injectors, in case that is the problem. And if not, maybe it needs cylinder head replacement. That seemed to be a rather expensive (for me) way to diagnose the problem. I can't believe that BMW somewhere has seen this problem before.
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I have a 2008 Suzuki forenza, 125,000 miles. I commute 5 days a week one hour each way. The check engine light came on, then after a day it went off. I filled it up with gas and as soon as I started it up, the light came on again. Then an hour later, It went off. My brother came to pick me up from work, it was on (he notices nothing). Took it to Auto Zone and the code came up Throttle Body. Went to get a new gas cap & air filter, the code went off.
Changed both. (The gas cap was clicking but not staying on.) Drove to the mechanic. They said they cleared the code but do not see anything wrong and to bring it back if it comes on again. For 348 miles, it drove fine, parked it in the drive way. I went to start it this morning to move out of the driveway, the light is on again. There is a sight hesitation while driving; the mechanic thought it might be a spark plug. I have had the car a year. The hesitation comes and goes. I plan on getting the plugs changed next week. I started using Lucas with every fill up. So far have used it 3 times.
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I drove my car to work today and no problems. Tonight my wife and I took the car out to go to dinner and intermitantly there and back my car is hesitating as we drive along. I thought it was odd at first then my wife asked if I was kidding around. I told her its not me.
It's as if the car is driving then all of a sudden its like a loss of power or as if the limiter kicks in and starved the engine of gas and then a second later it jerks back to life and keeps going.
If it does this tomorrow its going to the dealer. It is not throwing any warning lights and I have 3/4 tank of gas so its not that.
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(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
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My truck is developing a hesitation or a miss when accelerating. It only does it in the beginning of accelerating like when just starting off from a stop. Seems like its more noticeable with the more I get on it. If that makes any sense. When just lightly accelerating it doesn't do it, like going slow through town from light to light. But when I give it more is when I feel it. It seems like it only does it before the turbo kicks in and it puts out a little smoke too only before turbo kick in. After that it runs good with no noticeable miss or anything. WOT runs feel good after it clears up. Its just when first starting out with anymore that 1/4 throttle I can feel it.
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Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
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2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
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I have a 2004 F-150 Super Crew Lariat which I bought new and I just turned 300,000 miles. The truck has been very well maintained and is in great shape. It is hands-down the best vehicle I have ever owned and I have owned plenty. I drive mostly highway miles and lately I have notice a slight roughness or vibration when driving straight or turning right. If I turn left of center it drives as smooth as the day I bought it. The dealer can't figure it out, or they don't have the experienced personnel and/or they don't care to figure it out because of the high miles. They checked the power steering pump, which checked out fine and that was as far as it went.
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1997 F150 4X4 4.6 engine with 285,000 miles
Truck was running perfect down the road, then suddenly it lost power and started missing at all RPM ranges. So i keep driving another 6 miles and then POOF the miss is gone and truck runs perfect. Couple hours later i hop back in it and its running good and then suddenly it starts missing and loosing power again except this time it never started running good again. Never did throw a CEL.
I hooked up my SCT Tuner (for my F250) to check for codes and came up with P0171 which indicated one of the banks was running lean, but no missfire codes. Did a search on here and learned the common problems(vacum leak) of that code.
Found the vacum leak at the PVC elbow, so i replaced both ends of the plastic tube.
Pulled the throttle body elbow and cleaned out the clogged up EGR ports.
Put a new air filter in and took the MAF out and cleaned it with MAF cleaner.
Put it back together and it idled way better but still ran like crap with the bad miss/sputter. Ran it down the road a few miles and came back thinking of the catalytic converter, i crawled underneath and it was glowing red. It does run and feel like the converter is stopped up but if i have a dead miss and dumping fuel wouldnt that make it glow red to or no? Still no CEL and now no codes.
Also i held the engine at about 1000 rpms where i could here the miss good and unplugged the fuel injectors one at a time to see if that made a difference. Each one i unplugged made it miss worse, so wouldnt that tell me that all 8 cylinders are firing?
And i changed the spark plugs (motorcraft) 250 miles ago.
So it still cranks and runs smooth after a cold soak overnight and then after a mile of driving or less it starts the dead miss/sputter and loss of power.
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What a year 2014 has been. I had a 2005 F250 6.0 that was stolen in March and totaled when found days later. My insurance gave me enough to pay off the loan and render me the obstacle of replacing it. I got my F250 pretty cheap so replacing it for the insurance pay out was non-existence. I ended buying a 2007 F150 EC 4X4 w/ the 5.4 and having 97,000 miles on it. Just as luck would have it, I had the F150 for about a week before the cam phasers went out. Luckily the warranty covered it enough to put in a new LKQ reman engine.
I got the truck back about 2 weeks ago and put 1,000 miles on it in a very gracious form. I have noticed since then that despite letting it warm up for 20 minutes, I could put the throttle on the floor and the outcome was very poor. It was almost as if I was attempting to pull a house down. I couldn't even get the tires to spin at all, not even on wet pavement. Now I know this is not my old F250 6.0 turbo diesel, but really, I expected more from a new reman engine! They used all components from the old engine except for new spark plugs and a fluid change. Why is this "new" reman engine so weak?
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Early 99 7.3. Runs ok has a slight miss at idle however every injector when unhooked makes a change. Has white and blue smoke From the exhaust. Has enough blow by to blow the oil cap off as your unscrewing it. My question is, I know engine restore is bad for these trucks but I can't afford to rebuild the engine. If I run the restore and then clean the IRP once the truck dies is this going to mess anything else up. Do you think it will by me a few months to save up for a rebuild
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