Bmw - 335 :: Slight Hesitation And Noticeable Reduction Is Fuel Mileage / Miss In Cylinders
Jan 30, 2014
I have a mysterious problem with the BMW 335d concerning the engine. The dealer detected a "miss" in the cylinders based on the check engine light, but there is no real drive problem. However, I have noticed a slight hesitation and noticeable reduction is fuel mileage. They don't really know what it is but suggested replacing the fuel injectors, in case that is the problem. And if not, maybe it needs cylinder head replacement. That seemed to be a rather expensive (for me) way to diagnose the problem. I can't believe that BMW somewhere has seen this problem before.
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Phaeton 3.0 tdi ... For some time i have been noticing that the car has a slight hesitation when changing gear from 1 to 2 and barely noticeable from 2 to 3, but as the car gets warmer the hesitation becomes shorter, I don't know if it really is a hesitation , it mostly feels at light acceleration before the oil gets to operating temperature and feels like it slips for like a half second before engages second gear , but as the car warms up it gets better , the car has about 230.000 km , since i bought it i put 50.000 km and did not change the transmission fluid and i guess that before me no one changed it, VW says that the atf should not be changed and many people say that it could make it worse, what the problem is and should I change the Transmission fluid ?
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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2003 F150 5.4 72852 miles
I have a Rough Idle & sometimes a hesitation or stumble on acceleration. I cleaned the MAF & IAC motor & Air & Fuel Filters are new. I got a 20890 scanner & ran test 6 53 as suggested in many posts by BlueGrass. Here are My results & what They Convert to.
1 00F5 .3675
2 0051 .1215
3 0000
4 0000
5 00A3 .2445
6 0000
7 0000
8 0000
I'm guessing the cop's are ok & probably need plugs? I was hoping to just swap a coil. Too cold to do plugs & truck won't fit in my garage.
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Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
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My '03 Elantra has started making a screeching sound when I drive it. At first, I thought it was due to the cold weather, but it has occurred even on warmer days. It makes the noise intermittently, sometimes not at all. Sometimes when I turn sharply or back up, or when I just drive it. What is odd is that I had the belt changed last spring, and I inspected it and it does not seem ripped or stressed at all.
Not sure if this is related, but I noticed that my gas mileage has been greatly reduced. Last week I filled up a full tank and drove about 6 miles. When I filled up, the needle was above F. Later when I got home, the needle was just a few ticks below full. Within two days, I was at half, only driving a combined total of about 16 or so miles, city driving. This car has always had great gas mileage, even with snow tires. My mileage is 56,815, and I've checked for gas leaks and found none. My RPM's don't rise, my engine does not overheat, though I did find some weird oil on the black hood on the engine last week when I checked the belt. I checked the oil levels and they were good.
I'm taking this in tomorrow, and am scared that this is the end of this car. What may be the cause of the screeching and loss of fuel efficiency?
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I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
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2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
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Did my starter yesterday. Today now several times, truck ran rough and stalled. Turned over, tach not bumping, no codes. Would go after a couple tries. Stuffed a new CPS into it. Drive 30 miles, now has a noticable miss, no codes, no smoke and quit again, but started right up.
No codes. Does not feel like another truck and under valve cover gaskets.
1999 7.3 Super duty!
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1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
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I am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
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I'm having with the first startup in the morning. The car turns over fine, but when I accelerate there is a noticeable hesitation. This was only occurring for the first 20 seconds, when I accelerate out of my driveway. Now, it has gotten progressively worse. Still not stalling or anything like that, but it has become more pronounced. I have an APR stage 1+ with a Carbonio intake. Others mention they were experiencing a similar situation. I have tried idling before shutting the car off as well as letting the car sit for 30 seconds after I start her up. Im wondering if I disconnect the battery and allow the ECU to reset might work.
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Its a 1994 with 4.0, automatic, 4x4. Running fine, parked it, a week later I'm getting a bad but sporadic miss that according to the stealership is the 3 cylinders on the right bank dropping in and out. Driving down the road you can feel them drop out and when they come back its a kick in the pants like a turbo kicked in.
Shop says wires are good, plugs are good, and then lost me when they started talking around in circles and not making much sense.
What could make 3 cylinders all on the same side of the engine drop in and out? This wasn't anything that slowly came on. Fine one day, crap the next. The only thing I did prior to was replace the IAC because it was idling high, it was cruddy inside, and it looked like it was original. It was running fine after that till this issue popped up out of nowhere.
Mileage was claimed to be 178k but I'm beginning to suspect it's probably 278k.
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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I have had a problem with my 99 Alero for some time. It is a 4 cyl 2 door and there is a hesitation that comes and goes I have changed the plugs,fuel filter and air cleaner and will still do it from time to time. I have also tried different grades of gas and injector cleaner.
It seems to do it most when we are going up an incline just before it shifts when the motor is getting the most load on it but it will also do it when I start it up like it has a miss. As I said this comes and gos and no lights have come on so I'm not sure if it has stored codes.
Recently I have tried Outlaw super concentrated fuel injector cleaner and I have not had the problem for the last week or so?
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I've had my XB 5-speed for nearly a year and 10000 miles. It as been dead on reliable and fun to drive. My gas mileage has varied from 26 to 31 in mixed driving and from 32 to 35 on the highway. I use premium fuel only because I can get it without ethanol. My fuel mileage also increased a couple of mpg due to getting the power robbing ethanol out. True it is probably not enough to offset the extra expense but I like not having the stuff in my car. My only dissatisfactions has been with the transmission gear ratios. They are way to low. This torquy engine could easily do with a ratio that would drop about 500 rpm for more relaxed highway cruising.
As it is, though, my XB will go up any hill or long grade without breathing hard! Another is the instrumentation. I don't mind the center mounted set-up but speedometer and trip meter for mpg ratings are both inaccurate. My speedo reads about 2.5 mph high and the fuel mileage read out has about the same error, also on the high side. I have the stock 16" tires. The clutch has a narrow engagement band and can be difficult to be smooth on. The car is fairly quiet, is comfortable and this years hot, humid summer has shown it has one of the best air conditioners I have ever experienced in a car. I thought it might be an electric unit rather than a belt driven compressor because there is absolutely no perceived drag when the compressor kicks on.
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My truck is developing a hesitation or a miss when accelerating. It only does it in the beginning of accelerating like when just starting off from a stop. Seems like its more noticeable with the more I get on it. If that makes any sense. When just lightly accelerating it doesn't do it, like going slow through town from light to light. But when I give it more is when I feel it. It seems like it only does it before the turbo kicks in and it puts out a little smoke too only before turbo kick in. After that it runs good with no noticeable miss or anything. WOT runs feel good after it clears up. Its just when first starting out with anymore that 1/4 throttle I can feel it.
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My second gen prius has slight miss/knock at startup. Done 35000 km. Doing around 19Km/Ltr. No other problem.
Any need for tuning, plug checking, needed at this stage?
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2010 f250 cc 5.4 145000 miles. I bought it last fall have not drove it a lot. When using the cruise control and a load is added grade or hill in the roadway. It jerks hesitates or miss then cleans up and runs fine. When using the accelerator it does not do this. No codes.... Thinking about changing the plugs.
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Woke up to go to work and it started up with a rough idle, got a block down the road and it had a slight miss under acceleration. Guessing its a bad coil, I've got a spare featured I'd play I I mini miny moe when I get home unless.
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I purchased a 2010 2.5 Altima with 9K miles in 2011. After @ four months I noticed a slight miss at 30-45 mph upon acceleration. I told the dealership and they said it wasn't throwing a code. After two more visits I again complained about the miss. At this time the service person handed me a "Customer Satisfaction Bulletin" that explained that cars (Altimas, 2009- 2011 with my trans. and engine experience this "SURGE" as they called it AND that it is NORMAL.There is no way in hell that a auto maker would produce a car that does what my car does and consider it NORMAL. Buy the way, there is a "FIX" that was done but didn't work, that involved changing motor mounts and computer programming.
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