Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 - Hesitation During Acceleration / Reduced Fuel Mileage
Mar 5, 2015
I bought a used 2008 Sonata GLS with 65K miles 2 years ago. It's been a great car so far. For the first 25K miles that I drove it, it had good pickup and got ~30 MPG for my highway driving. In the last ~5K miles, the fuel mileage has dropped to 25MPG highway and it has some hesitation when accelerating, especially on lower RPM's. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, but it is still having the issue. What to check?
Some possibilities: ignition coils, sensors, timing belt, etc?
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We gave the Prius a good workout in the rain for the first time today. Central Florida has been having serious amounts of heavy rain, creating water covered roads in our area. Normally the digital fuel mileage display shows around 55 MPG for most of our driving. However today it dropped to the upper forties very quickly.
We were running the wipers on continuous (low and med speeds), the AC (defrost) was running to keep the condensation off the windows, and the headlights were on. I wonder if the extra resistance of the water on the road also had an effect on the fuel mileage.
Even though we hit some fairly deep water and created large amounts of splash, the car tracked straight, the brakes worked well, and the power was totally uninterrupted. Other than the poor fuel milage we were impressed.
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2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder approximately 124K miles which has been hesitating on hard accelerations for about 8 months. It will usually do this when getting on an on-ramp for the freeway or if I need to do a U-turn and get up to speed quickly. What happens is I punch the gas and the vehicle acts as if it's not getting any gas and hesitates or stalls and then it finally takes off. Usually I see a cloud of grey/white smoke behind the car enough that I am unable to see any cars in my rear view mirror.
I do not seem to see a difference when the vehicle is warm/cold. I do not have a CEL nor have had one. I have replaced the MAP sensor, PCV valve and spark plugs (properly gapped). I have done a compression test and am getting roughly 180-185 psi per cylinder. I am not experiencing any oil loss/coolant loss, do not see any oil in the coolant or gummed-up or oily spark plugs. I have also replaced the transmission fluid, doing a drain and flushing the torque converter. I have also cleaned the throttle body, and am using a new air filter and the oil has been changed within the past 1000 miles.
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She was driving and she turned onto another road this morning and the Prius started making a popping noise which lasted about 30 seconds. She normally averages about 42/43 mpg but it is down to 37 mpg. She said she has noticed since yesterday the Prius did not drive the same (I am assuming she means the power). The Prius is a 2006 with about 105,000 miles on it. Nothing has ever been done to it since we purchased it new in 2006 except oil and tires.
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I have a mysterious problem with the BMW 335d concerning the engine. The dealer detected a "miss" in the cylinders based on the check engine light, but there is no real drive problem. However, I have noticed a slight hesitation and noticeable reduction is fuel mileage. They don't really know what it is but suggested replacing the fuel injectors, in case that is the problem. And if not, maybe it needs cylinder head replacement. That seemed to be a rather expensive (for me) way to diagnose the problem. I can't believe that BMW somewhere has seen this problem before.
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A few weeks ago, the air conditioner in my 06 worked great. I parked the car and went into a store for about an hour. When I turned the car back on, now the blower seems to blow at only about half of what it has since new. The compressor appears to be working properly and the air still gets (almost) ice cold, but the fan speed is significantly lower. Since it's now 100 F+ outside, it takes nearly an hour to really cool the cabin.
It's been about 18 months since my last cabin air filter change, so I'll be changing it this weekend, but I just don't see that causing a sudden and drastic effect on the fan speed. If the fan stopped working altogether, I could see it being a fuse or the fan motor itself, but I'm at a total loss.
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I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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It was the fuel. I had been experiencing a hesitation when going from a cruising speed...to WOT (wide open throttle) situations. The car would kind of just hang there for a couple of seconds, not really going anywhere. This situation was a bit - I wouldn't call it scary - but I would call it something I needed to be concerned/mindful of when pulling into traffic or switching lanes on a highway, etc....it made you have to take into account how much more space you'd need to do such a maneuver.
Well the problem is gone, it was the fuel. And it was my own fault. I was buying Super one week, then supplementing mid grade the next...mixing the two and lowering the octane level. Plus I was buying the gas at a station that was cheap. My logic was that I drive 600 miles a week...I'm trying to save a few bucks, etc...the guy I bought the car off of said he was doing the same thing with the fuel (and he's a Lexus tech)...and for the most part I didn't notice much of anything in loss of fuel mileage, etc.
The hesitation wasn't something that really bothered me because I usually don't find myself in situations where I have to mash the gas pedal into the floor, but I did want to know why the car was acting like that. After reading through a bunch of threads I came upon one post that said most of the time it's the fuel, but there is a reprogramming procedure as well. For me it was the fuel. I know others have solved an entirely different problem with the quality of their oil (TGMO).
So if you're going with a lesser grade of fuel...yes your miles per gallon won't really change...and no you won't be able to tell much of a difference...but don't be surprised if your car doesn't want to move in hard acceleration situations for a spell (I imagine it's the knock sensors kicking in).
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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My 4Runner has begun hesitating sometimes during acceleration AND immediately after acceleration. It feels like it is "chugging." This usually also happens in the low end of gears (it is a manual 5 speed). I do not believe it is the transmission as I do not notice it slipping at all. It has been 90,000 since the timing belt was changed, which I plan to do soon. Could it be an injector issue? Maybe a cylinder is not firing? The RPMs do not seem to change much when this occurs.
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I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
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About a year and a half ago I moved from Chicago (500 feet above sea level) to Morelia, Mexico (6,200 feet above sea level). My gas mileage on my 2000 Ford Focus has plummeted, I used to get anywhere from 22 to 26 miles to the gallon around town in Chicago but I am lucky to get 14 or 15 here. Is it simply a function of altitude? I have a good mechanic, keep everything tuned up and in good shape.
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After air filter change our 2004 Honda Pilot mileage was reduced by 50% (got about 11 mpg on interstate and we used to get 24 mpg). I checked tire pressure and they were low, so I inflated them. I have a code reader, and the car is showing no error codes.
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Here's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
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What a year 2014 has been. I had a 2005 F250 6.0 that was stolen in March and totaled when found days later. My insurance gave me enough to pay off the loan and render me the obstacle of replacing it. I got my F250 pretty cheap so replacing it for the insurance pay out was non-existence. I ended buying a 2007 F150 EC 4X4 w/ the 5.4 and having 97,000 miles on it. Just as luck would have it, I had the F150 for about a week before the cam phasers went out. Luckily the warranty covered it enough to put in a new LKQ reman engine.
I got the truck back about 2 weeks ago and put 1,000 miles on it in a very gracious form. I have noticed since then that despite letting it warm up for 20 minutes, I could put the throttle on the floor and the outcome was very poor. It was almost as if I was attempting to pull a house down. I couldn't even get the tires to spin at all, not even on wet pavement. Now I know this is not my old F250 6.0 turbo diesel, but really, I expected more from a new reman engine! They used all components from the old engine except for new spark plugs and a fluid change. Why is this "new" reman engine so weak?
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My 2011 stick shift no air Accent has a hesitation or stumble on light acceleration that comes and goes. It may not occur for weeks then re-occurs. It is hard to reproduce intentionally. It never occurs in cruise. The CEL is not on. Most often occurs at 1400 to 1500 rpm with slight acceleration or a slight increase in load as coming to a slight hill. I tried injector cleaner a few times and changed air filter. It seemed more reloaded to induction airflow so I changed the MAP sensor. I understand the 2011 Accent does not have a MAF sensor. It is still occurring. It is fine in steady cruise as well as in hard acceleration. I am wondering if it is a TPS sensor problem. It has 60,000 miles and otherwise runs fine.
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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Changed my spark plugs and fuel filter but my fuel mileage seems to go down, used to get a average of almost 16mpg on a tank, now I'm down to 13.5mpg and also have the occasional stutter at different speeds/rpms. Is it time for new coils?
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I've had my XB 5-speed for nearly a year and 10000 miles. It as been dead on reliable and fun to drive. My gas mileage has varied from 26 to 31 in mixed driving and from 32 to 35 on the highway. I use premium fuel only because I can get it without ethanol. My fuel mileage also increased a couple of mpg due to getting the power robbing ethanol out. True it is probably not enough to offset the extra expense but I like not having the stuff in my car. My only dissatisfactions has been with the transmission gear ratios. They are way to low. This torquy engine could easily do with a ratio that would drop about 500 rpm for more relaxed highway cruising.
As it is, though, my XB will go up any hill or long grade without breathing hard! Another is the instrumentation. I don't mind the center mounted set-up but speedometer and trip meter for mpg ratings are both inaccurate. My speedo reads about 2.5 mph high and the fuel mileage read out has about the same error, also on the high side. I have the stock 16" tires. The clutch has a narrow engagement band and can be difficult to be smooth on. The car is fairly quiet, is comfortable and this years hot, humid summer has shown it has one of the best air conditioners I have ever experienced in a car. I thought it might be an electric unit rather than a belt driven compressor because there is absolutely no perceived drag when the compressor kicks on.
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