Golf V R32 :: Hesitation And Loss Of Power Suddenly While Driving
Apr 23, 2008
I drove my car to work today and no problems. Tonight my wife and I took the car out to go to dinner and intermitantly there and back my car is hesitating as we drive along. I thought it was odd at first then my wife asked if I was kidding around. I told her its not me.
It's as if the car is driving then all of a sudden its like a loss of power or as if the limiter kicks in and starved the engine of gas and then a second later it jerks back to life and keeps going.
If it does this tomorrow its going to the dealer. It is not throwing any warning lights and I have 3/4 tank of gas so its not that.
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I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
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Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
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When i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
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2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
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My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
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Once again my Celica is having a similar issue. Originally over 6 months ago i had an issue with my MAP Sensor which was causing extreme hesitation issues and the car was basically not safe to drive in traffic.
The issue that is now occurring is that i can start my car fine and drive around on flat normal roads with no issues but ive noticed once i go up a steep or decent hill/driveway the car will start to bog down around 1500-2100 RPM.
Once it starts to play up it continues to do so even on flat roads.
Have Checked:
- MAP Sensor - OK
- Distributor - OK
- Leads - Old but still ok, plan to replace later.
- Spark Plugs - Ok
- Spark Plug Wells - They had oil in them few weeks ago, cleaned out and hasent returned.
- Need to replace Valve cover gasket to fix this i believe.
- Fuel is ok.
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I've been experiencing power loss at random times while driving, idling, With almost always flickering headlights on my mkiv 1.8t gti. Also on what always seems like the exact same spot on the freeway I'm losing all power to the wheels and it feels as if my plugs aren't firing for about 10 seconds Which causes me to bog down. At which point I down shift and play the throttle until my motor then begins running normally again.
I've semi recently replaced my battery and terminals, due to corroded terminals and worn out battery. Is is possible a ecu reset could solve this problem?
Also when the power surges during driving my traction control and hand-brake lights on the tachometer will flash and the car will beep three or four times (same as when the hand-brake on beep).
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My 2003 Camry loses power and starts to hesitate or miss-like under load, but when cruising along not under load it runs smooth. There is no check engine light coming on.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter in the tank.
I have changed the spark plugs.
I have added injector cleaner and fuel treatment to the fuel.
I have cleaned the air filter and air filter compartment.
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Alright, my '06 SV6 AWD has a major problem...I'm about to blow it up! But seriously, I've had an issue for a few weeks now with intermittent acceleration/hesitation problems. Basically it started as a rare occurrence and is happening more often now. Yesterday, it did it consistently for 20 minutes on one trip around town. 1 hour later, it didn't happen noticeably at all on the way home. It happens while accelerating, usually from a stop, but also sometimes when cruising at highway speeds.
The car does not stall or stumble. Everything sounds fine and smooth, but when accelerating from a stop, the car will stop accelerating and the speed slowly drops off. Pushing the accelerator down further to the floor does nothing for several seconds, then the power returns and the car responds to whatever position the pedal is in. If you haven't pushed further it continues accelerating where you left off. If you've got it to the floor, it takes off quickly. When cruising at speed, you don't notice anything until you start slowing down, and the pedal reacts the same way. NOTE: The engine does not rev up when this is happening. It's not like the tranny is slipping.
It really seems like a fuel delivery problem and not transmission. It has all the normal symptoms of a failing pump. And about 2 months ago, I had the fuse for the fuel pump melt (not blow). These problems didn't happen immediately after, but they did happen a few weeks after that.
That said, I have noticed that when cruising I occasionally hear a light clunking noise that sounds like the rear diff engaging. I assume this is just due to play in the drive train. I also had to recently do the expensive versatrack fluid flush and fill to get rid of the diff groan. But I still feel like it's probably fuel related because the engine doesn't rev up.
Here's what I've done so far:
1. Checked the wires at the problematic C305 connector. I already had to completely redo that connector several years ago as the PO had removed the connector and directly twisted all wires together covered the with tape, and filled hole with silicon. BTW, GM does sell all of those harnesses with length of wire, connectors, and heat shrink covers for reasonable $$. Anyway, found 2 wires with insulation slightly shaved off. Neither was for the fuel pump, everything else still looked good.
2. Checked voltage at the gray fuel pump wire just after the new harness (about a foot before the fuel pump). And checked the ground at the same location. Haven't checked at pump connector because I don't want to drop tank just yet. Both were fine with almost no resistance on power between that location back to the fuse box. So, it doesn't look like a bad or shorted wire unless it is in that short length up to the fuel pump that I cannot access w/o dropping the tank.
3. Checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure when primed and idling is a consistent 60-62 psi. I know the manual states 60psi as the max. Maybe this has something to do with it?? Perhaps my cheap actron pressure guage is a bit off or perhaps the pressure regulator is bad. Could this cause the issue.
4. Checked for DTC's with code reader. No active or pending codes.
The other things I think could be the cause based on internet research:
1. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor
2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
3. PCM
4. O2 sensor
The problem is that all of those things tend to set a DTC from what I've read. I still think the fuel pump us going bad and the pressure was fine because the problem is intermittent. I just don't want to spend the $$ on a new pump to find out it was something else.
Tomorrow, I will have access to a scanner that can log 10 seconds of data from the computers while driving. I think that might shed some light if I can get the problem to happen when recording. I'm not familiar with fuel trims and the lot.
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Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
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I bought a 2002 santa fe last week. it was a non runner. the previous owner said he took it to the garage for a crank oil seal leak. when he went to collect the car they had removed the head saying oil was leaking from the gasket. he towed it away and i bought it. i have refitted the head. the engine runs smooth at idle. when i first start up in the morning there is a loud rattle for a second or so. it sounds like a diesel starting up. when i am driving it hesitates and seems to lose power. also at a certain position on the accelerator pedal this rattle is there. it goes away when i accelerate more.
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I have owned this car for six months. The car now has 39K. The problem is getting worse.
Re: Lexus 2011 LS460 AWD
Subject: Hesitation / momentary loss of power when accelerating after turn.
When accelerating after a sharp turn with light to moderate acceleration, the car will have a momentary loss of power for about 1, 2, or even 3 seconds. This does not happen often, but perhaps once every two weeks and I cannot replicate the problem despite attempting to do so.
In all cases, I am talking about DRY pavement. It always happens after a sharp turn usually to the right. (Probably because most sharp turns are to the right actually it only happened once on a left turn that I will describe below.) Acceleration is light to moderate NOT hard acceleration.
In one case it caused a serious situation. I had just purchased gas and was entering a busy freeway. When accelerating, the engine had a total loss of power for a couple seconds as a large semi truck bore down on me with its air horns blaring.
I have a strong clue that may debug this problem. Once, when turning left, the car suffered a total loss of power. There was no traffic and I kept my foot lightly on the throttle. The car remained unresponsive. The engine did not stop, but it did not respond and remained this way for at least 5 seconds until I took my foot off the accelerator and then back on to the accelerator. During this period of suspended throttle, I noticed that on the right side of the dash an orange alert symbol was flashing I think it was a swerving car? I assume this indicated that the car was losing traction and the computer decided to cut power until traction was regained. But the pavement was dry, and the acceleration was normal. In no case did I ever sense that one of the wheels was slipping.
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My son is primary driver of our 2011 Limited with push-button start. He phoned me a few minutes ago to tell me he was driving--everything normal-- when there was suddenly a complete loss of power, mechanical and electrical (engine died, dash lights out, nav screen dark, etc.). There was no advance warning of any kind.
The power loss was total but brief, two or three seconds, and then reactivated on its own. My son said he pulled off the road into a parking area, stopped the engine, waited a few seconds and then restarted and is on his way home with everything working normally so far.
First issue with the Sonata--61k miles ....
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After successful 4kwh install I was coming off interstate at 65 mph avg. when red light began to show on phev switch. Of a sudden the ice revved to 3700 rpm and loss of power. I was only able to get up to 25mph after red light. The ice continued to rev and of course the dash lit up like a christmas tree. I got to top of hill and pulled over and shut it down. I started it up and every thing worked fine except the red triangle and check engine light were still on and all the other lights were off.
I pulled into BachmanToyota about five miles further and their tech said this: "There is a code poa92 detail 606//adv there is a cust.modified addtional battery,in which we cannot svc." He cleared the code and I drove it home a total of about 60 miles and it is fine. What went on ?
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When I take off from a start it will intermittently stumble or hesitate, seems to be around 1500 rpm. have also noted it at higher speed while cruising. its more like a momentary power cut than a miss fire.
So far I have done the following
new fuel filters
clean MAF
new PCV valve
new spark plugs
check all hoses and plugs etc
injector clean
checked techstream for codes. there is one for a heated O2 sensor but dont think thats it.
2002. SC430
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