Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Manual Trans Has Small Leak At Slave Cylinder For Clutch
Sep 21, 2011
So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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Ive been chasing a leak at the top of the trans on my 2007 Accent 2 door Hatchback. I cleaned up the area and it appears that the leak is from a seal 43126 in attached drawing. My question is can I remove the component 43801 without being in the trans, to replace this seal? Is there anything else i should inspect in there bushings, bearings etc.
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I just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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So I took my tranny off to fix a broken dog bone mount bolt problem. I am now in the process of putting it back on. I raised the tranny bolted all the bolts on had everything almost back together and I went to put my slave cylinder in and the clutch fork won't move so that the slave cylinder can slide in. Did I maybe put the clutch fork in wrong? pretty positive I put it back in as it was and slide the clip through the hole and everything.
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1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
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Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
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Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
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Can contaminated or old fluid make the clutch slave cylinder not function correctly? Mine won't completely disengage the clutch after sitting for several hours or if its really cold outside. The master is new and has been bled but now the fluid looks black.
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I put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
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I'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
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I have a 1990 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4 with the Mazda M5OD transmission. I took a peek under the truck the other night and I noticed that my slave cylinder is taking a little leak on me. I was wondering how to go about changing the slave. I could either pull the engine. Or pull the transmission and transfer case.
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my 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
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I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
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This lady at work has a 2011(?) Elantra sedan and she said she complained about her manual trans. not being smooth. She said the Hyundai mechanic adjusted something in the clutch and her transmission became smooth again. What part needs to be adjusted? She doesn't know and I would definitely like to know because I know it is not normal.
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Car threw a multiple cylinder misfire, changed plugs, wires, and then coil packs. Code keeps coming back.
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My cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
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I had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
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For the last week the car has increasingly been shuddering during acceleration. The mechanic thinks its just bad gas, but I'm worried it might be the timing belt. What is the damage of inflicting engine damage if i use up the current tank before trying to find other problems? Should I completely use up the current tank, or can I fill it up now (about a third of the tank is left) thus diluting any possible bad gas?
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