I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
View 7 Replies...Is there anything special that needs to be done for brake bleeding after putting in a new master cylinder? I decided today to flush my system with my vacuum bleeder and now my pedal slowly falls to the floor at a light...No problems in a panic stop or otherwise, just falls to the floor slowly when braking...no leaks, so I'm assuming a master cylinder is an order....
View 14 RepliesDriving home from work the truck suddenly would not shift, it felt like the clutch was not completely disengaging. The only way I could get it home was to start it in gear but the truck was obviously lunging, did that once and limped it home in 2nd down back roads.
Master was clearly leaking inside the truck but not a lot. Slave was dry as a bone, put all new hydraulics in it, it feels like I have more on the pedal but still the same problem. Thoughts? Do I have to pump it a thousand times to bleed it, it's one of those pre bled systems.
This happened to me once before a couple weeks ago and then it just magically went away after messing with it for a minute. I'm thinking maybe my fingers on the clutch are gone or throw out bearing quit but I've had no chatter, slipping or whining. I can shift through the gears with it off or running if my t case is in neutral.
So I took my tranny off to fix a broken dog bone mount bolt problem. I am now in the process of putting it back on. I raised the tranny bolted all the bolts on had everything almost back together and I went to put my slave cylinder in and the clutch fork won't move so that the slave cylinder can slide in. Did I maybe put the clutch fork in wrong? pretty positive I put it back in as it was and slide the clip through the hole and everything.
View 11 Replies1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
View 2 RepliesFirst of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
View 5 Replies Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
Can contaminated or old fluid make the clutch slave cylinder not function correctly? Mine won't completely disengage the clutch after sitting for several hours or if its really cold outside. The master is new and has been bled but now the fluid looks black.
View 1 RepliesI put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
View 1 RepliesI'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
View 4 RepliesSo my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
View 4 RepliesVehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
View 4 RepliesReplaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
View 3 RepliesI have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesI spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
View 9 RepliesMy Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesI'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
View 1 Replies