Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
Sep 10, 2013
I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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Driving home from work the truck suddenly would not shift, it felt like the clutch was not completely disengaging. The only way I could get it home was to start it in gear but the truck was obviously lunging, did that once and limped it home in 2nd down back roads.
Master was clearly leaking inside the truck but not a lot. Slave was dry as a bone, put all new hydraulics in it, it feels like I have more on the pedal but still the same problem. Thoughts? Do I have to pump it a thousand times to bleed it, it's one of those pre bled systems.
This happened to me once before a couple weeks ago and then it just magically went away after messing with it for a minute. I'm thinking maybe my fingers on the clutch are gone or throw out bearing quit but I've had no chatter, slipping or whining. I can shift through the gears with it off or running if my t case is in neutral.
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Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release.
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I have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
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my 2000 f550 master cylinder reservoir plastic is cracked from vibration and it would be good to know if it can be replaced separately than having to purchase a new complete unit.
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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I pulled the trans to replace the clutch and now I cannot get the trans to line back up! I am using a trans jack then two floor jacks with a 4x4 across them to support the transfer case. I am about four inches from the block and either side is either 2 inches high or low. The truck is 1999 f250 7.3 4wd.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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I Have a 1999 f250 7.3 diesel with the zf5 manual transmission and to shift gears I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor. Could this possibly be the slave and master cylinder or is it the clutch?
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I'm new to the 6.0 fords but have bought 1 its already been bullet proofed. I've put all 8 injectors in because cylinder 3 was bad. this is my issue now you can start the truck fires right up run for 30sec to 1 min and shuts of like you turn the key off starts right back with no issues and runs fine the rest of the time until you shut it off again and there are no codes. What it could be ? I have already replaced the ipr, icp, cam and crank sensors, egr o rings and the blue spring upgrade and still does it...
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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Have a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
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Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
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OK, I've done a lot of things over the years on cars and trucks but never messed with ball joints on a F250SD 4x4 with 160k miles. Found out today when getting new tires that the ball joints are shot. I trust the shop but know I can do this my self. So if I'm going to do this what should I replace? Since I'll be doing this I want to know from those with more time under the truck than me what else should I be replacing at the same time. I have done the front wheel bearings and of course shocks. Just what am I in for and what other parts and brands should I be using? Bushing kits for stabilizer bar? Replace stabilizer bar with heavier after market?
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2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
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I just bought my first Ford. Its a 2003 F250 SD with 5.4L, 5 speed manual, extended cab, 2WD. The truck is experiencing intermittent problems with the clutch pedal.
If I depress the clutch pedal for a long time, then sometimes it does not retract all the way. It does this, for example, when I am at a traffic light waiting for the next opportunity to make a left hand turn.
The truck runs and operates as it should even when this does happen. The easy response is to place your toes under the clutch pedal and pull it aft to its completely released position.
The master and slave cylinder and the booster spring attached to the clutch pedal assembly have been replaced and this condition still continues.
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I have a 06 6.0 with 340000 miles on it believe it or not still pulls great. The problem is my clutch fan keeps roaring when I press the gas it's extremely loud all my gauges are fine so the truck isn't overheating? Also not a bad fan clutch I wasted 300 bucks on that and it's still doing the same thing.
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I have a 99 f250 sd truck that came as a auto and I am changing it to manual. I bought a slave cylinder unit setup and got it put in and as I was installing rod from pedal to slave I must of broke plastic fingers that hold rod. So is them fingers replaceable or must I buy another unit? with no foot on pedal it sticks up close to bottom of dash now. I tried pushing clutch all the way to floor and still rises too high. What can I do????
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2003 F-250 SD 4x4 w/5.4L engine and 4R100 trans (pic in sig) . Truck has 280K on it with about 40K on a partial rebuild on the top end.
Took the truck out offroading and got about 4" from the top of the 33" tire in water (not mud.. water) . Someone with 6' tractor tore through the puddle.....
Well the truck survived through it ... albeit dirty as all hell and developed some issues soon thereafter. Codes for misfires on cyl 1,3,6,7, general ignition coil, etc etc etc
Power washed the underbody , washed the mud off the engine bay (yeah... with water but given it was caked with mud and water to fill the plug wells... no additional harm) .
Replaced all 8 COP and 4 plugs ( easier ones to reach), oil change, oil filter, new paper cone filter. checked most all the harness connections and cleaned with alcohol also. Reset the PCM/ECU and drove the truck for about 100miles and finally just after putting a full tank of gas (92 Octane) I throw a P0325...
The engine runs very clean, no hesitation, smooth idle, smooth acceleration on both light and hard acceleration. Just the damn code. Is it the gas I just topped off? After 100+ miles with new COP and plugs it threw nothing until this and runs great. Dont hear any knock/ping/detonation by ear and feels silky smooth at idle.
I really dont want to have to tear the intake off to replace bank 1 knock...
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