I have a 06 6.0 with 340000 miles on it believe it or not still pulls great. The problem is my clutch fan keeps roaring when I press the gas it's extremely loud all my gauges are fine so the truck isn't overheating? Also not a bad fan clutch I wasted 300 bucks on that and it's still doing the same thing.
View 6 RepliesLooking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
View 1 RepliesCEL came on last night, OBD code PO420, truck is an 06 f250,5.4? Btw, truck running rough, no power on acceleration, in gear at idle, runs rough....
View 4 RepliesI Have a 1999 f250 7.3 diesel with the zf5 manual transmission and to shift gears I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor. Could this possibly be the slave and master cylinder or is it the clutch?
View 14 Replies2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
View 7 Replies2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
I just bought my first Ford. Its a 2003 F250 SD with 5.4L, 5 speed manual, extended cab, 2WD. The truck is experiencing intermittent problems with the clutch pedal.
If I depress the clutch pedal for a long time, then sometimes it does not retract all the way. It does this, for example, when I am at a traffic light waiting for the next opportunity to make a left hand turn.
The truck runs and operates as it should even when this does happen. The easy response is to place your toes under the clutch pedal and pull it aft to its completely released position.
The master and slave cylinder and the booster spring attached to the clutch pedal assembly have been replaced and this condition still continues.
I have a 99 f250 sd truck that came as a auto and I am changing it to manual. I bought a slave cylinder unit setup and got it put in and as I was installing rod from pedal to slave I must of broke plastic fingers that hold rod. So is them fingers replaceable or must I buy another unit? with no foot on pedal it sticks up close to bottom of dash now. I tried pushing clutch all the way to floor and still rises too high. What can I do????
View 1 RepliesI'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
View 1 RepliesPulled out of street this morning and as I was shifting into 3rd my clutch pedal went straight to the floor boards. I was able to keep it in 2nd gear and get it back to my driveway . The pedal will only go straight to floor or goes straight up too the bottom of dash board. It's spring loaded. Am I dealing with a linkage issue?. I had clutch as I pulled out of my driveway and stopped go at the stop sign. Plus I was able to drive it back too my house with the pedal on the floor boards. Where I should look first?
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission.
I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced.
I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.
I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2000 F250, 5.4L 4x4 with the ZF5 5-speed transmission. Three years ago I replaced the complete clutch assembly, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, etc, and had the flywheel re-machined. Put it back in and all has been well. Only has about 15k miles on it. Earlier this week I went to drive it and all of the sudden it started getting harder to shift and by the end of the trip the clutch will not disengage at all when I push the pedal in.
Furthermore the pedal is much harder to push than it always has been. Checked the reservoir and it's fine. After some searching it seems to most likely be an issue with the master and/or slave cylinder either needing to be bled or replaced. Further reading revealed that bleeding and recommends just replacing the whole system, so I've priced that out. Was it a master/slave issue? Anything else I should check in case it isn't?
My issue, just purchased f250, 2004, v 10, manual transmission, state vehicle with 32,000 miles but was a plow vehicle for localRMV lot, that said, great shape and runs strong but I get a clunk and shutter when I am in reverse and only when I push down clutch before stopping. Doesn't do it starting forward or reverse, only reverse and when I push clutch in before stopping. Did have a friend drive and looks like the transfer case is moving, as if mounts or bolts are loose. Does this make sense and could bad slip joints be putting excess torque on ?!?!?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 Lariat, 6.2L V8. The past couple months i have noticed truck jerking/lunging during acceleration in the mornings usually between leaving the house and getting on the highway. Over the last 2 weeks the problem has progressed and seems to last longer. I have tried fuel injector cleaner with no success. This morning was the worst so far and after all this time i finally saw the maintenance "wrench" pop up on the on dash.
This was good news to me hoping that a local shop could read the code. However, when i dropped off my daughter and started back up the "wrench" went away. After warming up the problem seems to go away. This morning was so severe i lost speed and felt like the engine was going to stall.
I feel like this is related to the fuel system (injectors/pump/filter) but also haven't changed the spark plugs yet. My truck has 72,000 miles and otherwise is in good shape. How I should move forward?
My 1997 250hd has the 5.8 we have rep[laced the cap,rotor,iac,tps,plugs and wires about to do the fuel filter and drop one of the tanks and change out the pump,also has a new fuel regulator. What could be making it choke out under acceleration...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 4x4 lariat lifted 3 inches on 35s. I am getting a a roaring and vibration in the right side of the front end when I make a hard left turn. Don't get it going straight or right and get it more in the throttle. My mechanic and I thought it was the front right hub bearing/assembly. So we replaced it and the noise and vibration is still there and now there a shimmy in the steering.
View 14 RepliesMy stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube