Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Cylinder 2 Misfires At Startup
Feb 27, 2011
My accent is misfiring at startup, and randomly at stoplights. Pulling the code tells me it's the #2 cylinder. I have no trouble at highway speeds, the car really drives fine outside of stoplights and startups. The idle hovers around 900 rpm. Sometimes, once I'm on the road and driving, the CEL will go away altogether.
My main question is, is there any way to be certain that it's the 2/3 coil pack? I don't want to spend on parts that won't fix anything.
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I have a 2000 lc 1.5l ... I just rebuilt the motor machine shop work and all it Will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. If I hold the gas pedal it will run but sound rough and as soon as you let go it dies I have been able to get codes multiple misfires, misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, and misfire cylinder 4 I have put brand new plugs (copper core ngk), wires coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, iac, tps, maf and the injectors all have new orings it also has ntk o2 sensors that might have 1000 miles on them...
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I have an intermittent start-up problem with my 2001 BMW Z-3, 3.0: cylinder 1 misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a few minutes under certain conditions. The misfire conditions are consistent:A)OBDII code P0313 (misfire detected with low fuel) or code PO1343 (cylinder 1 misfire with fuel cutoff). Both OBDII codes equate to BMW fault code 238.B)after winter storage it misfires on start–up for 5-10 minutes (I’ve always added a fuel stabilizer before winter storage);C)after a spike in humidity it misfires on start-up for a few seconds or up to a minute after a rain storm or;D)If I don’t run the car for a 3-5 days (always stored in a garage) it misfires for a few seconds (just long enough to turn on the “check engine” light).
Otherwise, the car runs flawlessly –plenty of power – smooth as silk - no hesitation, but with the bloody check engine light on 50% of the time.In lieu of black tape over the check engine indicator, I’ve taken the car alternately to both Minneapolis BMW dealers over the years (once if not twice a year), but the intermittent nature of the misfire and the fact that I store the car 5 months the a year has made it difficult to pin down the exact “root cause” of the problem. The dealership mechanics have swapped and/or replaced the cylinder 1 fuel injector, spark plug, cylinder coil and cable, kept it overnight and for days. The last dealership diagnosis was a defective cylinder 1 exhaust valve that could only be fixed with valve job! Yes, that’s right, pull the head and do a complete valve job - on all six cylinders. What am I missing here? What about the infamous BMW VANOS valve control system?
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I keep getting p0420 and p0112. All new parts with in the last 10k miles new battery , starter , alternator , spark plugs , 02 sensors both bank 1 and 2 , catalytic converter aka exhast manifold , new map sensor , timing belt
The car drives fine it just hesitates to start up almost every time. Car has 210k miles
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
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My problems started at the beginning of the year when my car for no reason would cut out each time i slowed down. Had a minor service done and it seems to have gotten worse. It now chugs like a tractor.
I have replaced/done:
Sparks
Coil pack
Fuel filter
Battery
Drive belts
Coil leads
Oil pickup filter
oil filter , New oil
I have also taken out the Crankshaft sensor and its fine.
Today i struggled to get my car home because it chugged that hard it felt like the car was going to stall. Its an automatic. I left it running in my drive way for about 10 minutes and it cut out, but it started back up straight away. It still continued chugging. The exhaust also spits and misfires.
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I have a 2003 Mercedes c230 with low mileage 70000. This was its first season not garaged. About 2wks ago when very cold started abruptly to misfire badly at idle with poor gas mileage and modest loss of power. I got codes on OBD II for multiple cylinder misfires p0301-4 (all 4 cylinders). No other codes. Also the MAF and O2 sensors seems to be giving normal readings, and I cleaned the MAF sensor (didn't take off. cleaned through screen connected to air filter housing). 1 or 2 of the spark plugs seemed fouled as had black oily fuel on them and the O2 sensor voltage readings were consistently close to 0.9v (high meaning reading rich air/fuel right?). Changed all 4 plugs and swapped around ignition coils. Seems a little better but still misfire. O2 sensor voltage reads now consistently around 0.7v and the new plugs are dry but already blackened (indicating rich air/fuel I think).
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2003 F-250 SD 4x4 w/5.4L engine and 4R100 trans (pic in sig) . Truck has 280K on it with about 40K on a partial rebuild on the top end.
Took the truck out offroading and got about 4" from the top of the 33" tire in water (not mud.. water) . Someone with 6' tractor tore through the puddle.....
Well the truck survived through it ... albeit dirty as all hell and developed some issues soon thereafter. Codes for misfires on cyl 1,3,6,7, general ignition coil, etc etc etc
Power washed the underbody , washed the mud off the engine bay (yeah... with water but given it was caked with mud and water to fill the plug wells... no additional harm) .
Replaced all 8 COP and 4 plugs ( easier ones to reach), oil change, oil filter, new paper cone filter. checked most all the harness connections and cleaned with alcohol also. Reset the PCM/ECU and drove the truck for about 100miles and finally just after putting a full tank of gas (92 Octane) I throw a P0325...
The engine runs very clean, no hesitation, smooth idle, smooth acceleration on both light and hard acceleration. Just the damn code. Is it the gas I just topped off? After 100+ miles with new COP and plugs it threw nothing until this and runs great. Dont hear any knock/ping/detonation by ear and feels silky smooth at idle.
I really dont want to have to tear the intake off to replace bank 1 knock...
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I have a 2004 Accent Gt with only 43k miles on it and I am getting a cylinder 4 misfire when I refuel. I have replaced the 4 spark plugs. The original code was random multiple and now it is just cylinder 4. I tried to swap 2 spark plugs to see if maybe there was something wrong with the plug but the misfire did not move to another cylinder. I've read about maybe swapping fuel injectors, where I can find directions on how to do that?
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I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
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2004 Hyundai Accent has is misfiring, after warming up, only in idle. This only happens after about 30 seconds in idle. Could it not be getting enough gas? This being said I was getting misfire on 3 as well but that would happen all the time and cause the entire car to shake. This problem is now fixed and only #4 is causing me problems.
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Car threw a multiple cylinder misfire, changed plugs, wires, and then coil packs. Code keeps coming back.
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I must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
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I got a 2002 and its giving ma a po301. I know that means a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the Coils, Plugs and wires, and now its still there but the check engine light is flashing. What next?????
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I just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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I've got a 2000 accent 1.5, and I keep getting a code for a cylinder 3 misfire, when I change the spark plugs, it runs great for about 50 miles or so, then back to square one again. I just changed the coil pack the other day and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference. It has massive hesitation under heavy throttle, and the check engine light begins to blink if it sits and idles for too long. I've scanned it multiple times and it's always been cylinder 3, so it's definitely set on that one... I'm about stumped on what this could be. Also, the previous owner said that after a hot day of driving, the ECU fuse under the hood will blow out, what could cause either one of these things?
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I've recently purchased an 01 accent GS and I've replaced the timing belt, water pump, and spark plugs. Ive also got no cold air, and original struts with 119k on the vehicle. Those are the least of my worries now as my car loves quitting out at idle; and it does not get any better hot or cold. One of the plugs was completely black when it was taken out (not by me: mechanic work) so that's when they mentioned a cylinder misfire. they wanted an additional 100 to figure out what that could be attributed to on top of the 550 for the work mentioned above! I am now next to broke and want to see if I can trouble shoot some of the causes myself. I am thinking Plug wires, crankshaft/camshaft position sensors (if there are 2 dif ones?) MAF sensor, o2 sensor, injectors, and fuel filter. My understanding is that the coil pack controls 2 cylinders at a time and I just have 1 bad cylinder...I need to figure out where to start as I have no codes to work off of. also, I don't know how to assess resistance with an ohm meter.
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We have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
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How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
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2000 Jetta MKIV ... 2.0L GL
I've been dealing with random misfire codes on my Jetta (P0300, P0301-P0304). I've since replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, MAF senor, & camshaft positioning sensor but the problem still persists. The misfires occur right on start-up and don't stop which is leading me to the coil pack being bad.
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