Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - No Startup / Fuel Pump Not Buzzing
Feb 16, 2014
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
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I own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
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Ok I have recently bought a 1998 Ford F-150 V6 4.2L 2WD and when the guy sold it to me the check engine light was on and he told me that randomly when you turn the key to the on position you will not hear the fuel pump buzzing sound and he knew it wouldn't start, he said you would have to turn the key from the on and off position many times until you hear this sound and then the truck will start and run fine.
First off I got the codes read and there were three of them P0171, P0174, and P1537 some things to note are that the drivers air bag looks like it had deployed, the cover is loose and when I pulled it back the air bag looks duct taped up inside there that would cause the air bag light to continuously flash while driving. I noticed the battery leads were corroded so I replaced the battery and put new battery clamps on both wires, after that the problem did not happen for a week and I though it was over but it happened again.
Next is that the truck has the PATS system and it did not come with a remote which I have also read that the PATS system can cause the fuel pump not to turn on but not sure if this would cause it to not start randomly because sometimes it starts right up. When I started to look at the simple things to fix I noticed it did not have an air filter in the housing. so I thought the MAF sensor could be dirty so I cleaned it with the special cleaner, I put sea foam into the intake via a vacuum hose and also have put a fuel system cleaner in a full tank and have driven most of the gas out. After putting in an air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor, and sea foaming the intake, it seems to run a bit better but I am still having the random fuel pump issue.
I have checked the fuses and the and the fuel pump and ECM relays both are fine. Today I put new exhaust on it because it had some bad exhaust leaks and the truck did not start again, so the guy trying to put my exhaust on, hit the fuel tank with a hammer and it didn't work then hit it again and it finally worked. Im not sure if the hitting it did it or if it just randomly turned on like always from turning the key on and off. The new exhaust has made a huge difference in driving it feels and sounds much better.
Also to note is that when I am stopped at stop lights it will idle at about 1500 and then it drops down to 500 and back up and back down again and it does this at most stop lights, and it is not an abrupt drop it just slowly idles down and back up again. Again once the truck is started it runs perfectly fine with no issues, and there are no specific times when it has the problem it seems to be randomly. I know that many people will tell me to change the fuel pump out and I am already prepared for this but if there is any easy things I haven't thought of yet...
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Woke up this morning with a dead battery got a boost and realized that DRL, chime, dome light, dash lights and fuel pump are always on (can hear the fuel pump turning) even when the key is removed. The car will start but i have to remove the positive terminal to prevent a dead battery. Check all the fuses and the 2 diodes all is good. If I pull the 2 head light fuses in the engine bay the fuel pump slows down and the head light go on (The drl turn off).
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Have power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
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My 2000 Accent GL SOHC 1.5 won't start. It has plenty of battery power to crank over. The fuel pump is not cycling, so I assumed that was the problem and replaced it. Still no fuel pump when the key is turned.
I've read on here how it could be a Crank Position Sensor or a Camshaft Position sensor. I measured the resistance of the Crank Position sensor and got 800 ohms. The specs are [0.486 ~ 0.594kΩ at 20 C (68F)].
I also tried testing ground and voltage to the Camshaft position sensor. With key on, I wasn't getting voltage there (read .028 VDC or so), but the Crank position sensor was also removed. I'm not sure if that has any affect on the test.
So, What is the most likely culprit here? Obviously I'm not familiar with most of the sensors and troubleshooting them.
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My 2000 Hyundai accent gl will not start. I have realized it is the because its not getting fuel. the fuel pump is new but not getting power.. there are 5 wires coming from the pomp which is the ground wire?
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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Accent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
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2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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My accent is misfiring at startup, and randomly at stoplights. Pulling the code tells me it's the #2 cylinder. I have no trouble at highway speeds, the car really drives fine outside of stoplights and startups. The idle hovers around 900 rpm. Sometimes, once I'm on the road and driving, the CEL will go away altogether.
My main question is, is there any way to be certain that it's the 2/3 coil pack? I don't want to spend on parts that won't fix anything.
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I keep getting p0420 and p0112. All new parts with in the last 10k miles new battery , starter , alternator , spark plugs , 02 sensors both bank 1 and 2 , catalytic converter aka exhast manifold , new map sensor , timing belt
The car drives fine it just hesitates to start up almost every time. Car has 210k miles
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I have about 500 miles on my 2008 R32, and today I noticed while sitting in the car with it running that there was a noticeable buzzing coming from the fuel pump. It sounds like it is coming from the pump under the tank itself. Hear this coming through to the cabin? Rather loud, I wonder if this issue has already been reported with other 3.2 VR6 setups.
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Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
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I dont know if this is an issue, but here goes. You know the fuel pump prime sound when you open the drivers door? The buzz? It has recently stopped. Should I be concerned? Is this a foreshadowing of hard times to come? Or am I just over analyzing?
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I have a 2005 F-150 supercrew 4.6L with appx 127,000 miles on it. Back in December i took the family to a drive in movie and left the ignition turned to the on position. I jumped the battery and drove a few miles home. The next morning when i tried to start the truck it would not turn over. There was a buzzing noise coming from the fuel pump but not enough juice to turn the truck over. This has happened a few times in the last couple of months but will jump and run fine for weeks at a time. I've taken a 2500 mile round trip to Texas with no issues. I took a 200 mile trip this past weekend and now it will not start. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pump relay? I went to the parts store and bought a relay but it's not the same size as the one in my Haynes Manual. The part from the store is the same size as the bigger relays in the kick panel fuse box but does not match any of the plugs. According to my manual the fuel pump relay should be a smaller relay.
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It's a 2007 Nissan Murano with 50k miles and I've had it about 2 years. Occasionally, it won't start and this has happened about 7-10 times in 2 years. It turns over and makes all the normal sounds of starting, but never catches and starts the engine. Normally I wait a few minutes, try it again with some pumping of the gas, and it will start. I take it to Midas for oil changes and told them about it - they said the computer revealed nothing.Yesterday it would not start and I had to have it towed 90 miles home. The tow truck driver said he could not hear the fuel pump "priming" when he turned the key or, he said, it might be a fuse. Two hours later when he delivered it to my home and got off the tow truck, it started.
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