I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 corolla and every time I gas it up it seems to kick the pump off like its full (for instance if the car was on empty I could fill it and it would kick off at around 10 gallons) but If I keep pumping really slow i can fit another 3 gallons in it. Is this normal or not. I drive around 150 miles a day so i fill up quit often. It has done this for the last 80000 miles and I have just accepted it but since its been super cold out this winter I really don't want to stand out side no longer than I have to (it seems to take about 5-7 minutes just to get the extra 3 gallons in).
View 2 RepliesRecently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2010 ford fusion, with a no cap fuel filling system. My son ran it out of gas. While he was trying to add some he could not get it to take because of the internal seal not releasing, it just spilled out the overflow. Ever since then , at the gas station when fueling,the pump will shut off every couple of seconds. I don't know if running out of gas caused this,but i would like to know how to fix it.
View 2 RepliesWoke up this morning with a dead battery got a boost and realized that DRL, chime, dome light, dash lights and fuel pump are always on (can hear the fuel pump turning) even when the key is removed. The car will start but i have to remove the positive terminal to prevent a dead battery. Check all the fuses and the 2 diodes all is good. If I pull the 2 head light fuses in the engine bay the fuel pump slows down and the head light go on (The drl turn off).
View 10 RepliesHave power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Accent GL SOHC 1.5 won't start. It has plenty of battery power to crank over. The fuel pump is not cycling, so I assumed that was the problem and replaced it. Still no fuel pump when the key is turned.
I've read on here how it could be a Crank Position Sensor or a Camshaft Position sensor. I measured the resistance of the Crank Position sensor and got 800 ohms. The specs are [0.486 ~ 0.594kΩ at 20 C (68F)].
I also tried testing ground and voltage to the Camshaft position sensor. With key on, I wasn't getting voltage there (read .028 VDC or so), but the Crank position sensor was also removed. I'm not sure if that has any affect on the test.
So, What is the most likely culprit here? Obviously I'm not familiar with most of the sensors and troubleshooting them.
My 2000 Hyundai accent gl will not start. I have realized it is the because its not getting fuel. the fuel pump is new but not getting power.. there are 5 wires coming from the pomp which is the ground wire?
View 2 Replies2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4cyl 135k miles...
Everything has been going fine. On Thursday I stopped at a gas station. Came out and the car won't start. Had it towed back to the house.
It cranks, but won't turn over.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Spark plugs were worn, so changed them, can't hurt.
They spark, although it looks like it may be weak.
After changing the spark plugs and trying to start it, pulled them and you can smell fuel, so it is getting into the engine.
Checked the connections of the wire harness (all I believe)
Anything specific to this model that would suddenly not run. I drove it 3 times that day, no problems starting, running, driving, anything. So I'm kind of stumped on the sudden development.
The check engine light had been on, but I did disconnect the battery when I was looking at something else before I checked the codes. So it isn't throwing any now.
I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
View 3 RepliesAccent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
View 24 Replies2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2014 Prius- Pkg. 2 car. I had an '06 & an '08 Prius and kept the tire pressure @ 44 Lb.s for maximum mileage. I always fill my tank to the top well after the pump clicks off.
1) The dlr. told me I will only get an accurate MPG by not filling the tank after the pump clicks off. He claims the computer doesn't read the extra 1-2 gallons and that is causing me to get about 35 MPG even though the trip meter says 50 MPG.
2) The dlr. told me not to run my tires @ 44 lbs. Said it is a safety issue. I've been doing 44 lbs. since 2006 with great mileage and no safety issues.
Am I wrong for filling my tank to the top? My Prius has just over 600 miles today.
My 2013 Prius fills with approx 10.5 Gallons, but around 9 gallons the gas pump nozzle starts to clicks off every 10 cents. Is this normal?
View 3 RepliesAfter filling up today at the pump, the low fuel message is still coming on. My gauge is correct though. How to clear the message. I keep on trying to reset it with the reset button but it doesn't go away.
View 8 RepliesWhen filling up with gas, I can only get a couple gallons put in the tank before the nozzle kicks off from the pump. As I get closer to filling up the tank it kicks off more frequently. The way I equalize the gas tank while filling up so that I can add more gas is to move the gasoline nozzle in and out a couple times and i can see a little bit of gas squirt out while the pressure inside is adjusting.
I don't think anyone was able to put something into my tank to plug it up. There is a little hole directly under where the gas cap screws onto that has a rubber opening, I'm wondering if maybe some dirt got into that and plugged it assuming that hole has something to do with making sure the pressure equalizes, but I don't know.