Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Gas Tank Clicks Full Even Though It Is Not
Oct 24, 2015
I have a 2003 accent 1.6L ... It's been like this for a while, but when filling up, it clicks and stop filling like if it was full, but it is not. I can maybe get 0,30$ worth of gas in before it clicks. Then I have to wait a couple of seconds, and do it again.
I have read that it might be the charcoal filter that is clogged. Is there any way to fix this? from what I have read this filter is inside the gas tank.
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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Recently purchased a 2000 ford f150 4.2l. started hesitating when i would try to accelerated stressed or when a.c on. if i drive it like a grandpa wont do it. filled up the gas tank and it completely went away. the second it went down to the 3/4 line, started hesitating again. mind you when it was full even with the a.c on and going 80mph on expressway it would not hesitate.
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My car is a 2003 Hyundai accent . When getting gas, the gas pump often shuts off several times( almost every $0.50 of gas) well before my gas tank is full. Also, I have to fill the tank VERY SLOWLY to prevent spills and it takes a long time to fill up the tank. After Im done the car takes gives a bit of problem to start. Could it be the fuel filter?
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6L engine. My son drove it yesterday with no problem. This morning when he tried to start it we would get a click from the starter when he turned the key and that's all. Tried jumping it. That didn't work. So I jumped to conclusions and replaced the starter. I have the same problem. Click.
I have taken the old starter and the battery to AutoZone and had them both tested. They both work fine. (They'll let me return the new starter if I want to remove it). I've cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps. I still get the same click. What I did notice tonight after all of this is that when I turn the key the cable end/terminal clamp on the positive terminal SMOKES!
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Just got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
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My 2000 Subaru Outback automatic, with 95,000 miles is intermittently stalling. No check engine light, no sputtering, engine temperature & oil pressure fine; it will just be running and then it isn't. It has happened with a 1/4 tank gas and with a full tank of gas. Primarily it has happened after driving around on a hot day, with some highway driving, city driving, running errands- so stopping for a while, then when I head home and gain altitude (another 2000-2500 ft), it will stall when I take my foot off of the accelerator to make a left turn, or go around a blind right curve, but not every time. When it has stalled once, it tends to repeatedly stall when I take my foot off of the gas.
It always starts right back up again with no problem. It happened once in town right after I filled up with gas, but didn't repeatedly stall after that.It has been to my mechanic 3 times and no codes come up with scan. The AF sensor (idle control valve) was replaced twice, throttle body cleaned (although not bad), crank sensor checked, fuel trim checked, wires, battery checked, hoses checked, reprogramming of ECU checked- not needed, no recalls/reflashes, nothing found. I don't want to end up stranded on a lonely mountain road with fires approaching, or getting broadsided when it stalls in a left turn.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
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I just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.
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My wife has a 2002 Accent with 117K miles on it. Fuel pump has never been replaced, but fuel filter and PCV valve changed about 5K miles ago.
The problem started when I added some BG44K fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank by way of a funnel. There was no discernable change in the car until my wife tried to fill up with gas...it kept clicking off. This has been going on for some time and it's pretty annoying.
So I do some research and learned that there could be charcoal pellets in the venting lines coming from the charcoal canister. I removed the charcoal canister from the car, and sure enough, there were a lot of little pellets in the hoses. I disconnected all the hoses and shook out all the pellets (not from the box, from the hoses) and connected everything back up. I went to the gas station and...nope, still clicking off every 2 seconds.
Then I removed the fuel filler neck from the car and inspected it. There were no restrictions in the main tube and no restrictions in the tube that runs up the main tube and loops back down the other side. [b]The blue/black check valve was a little clogged, so I blew it out with compressed air. I reinstalled it with the arrow pointing towards the charcoal box - meaning air and/or fuel can travel towards the canister only. Should the check valve be facing the other way? I assume it should, so gases can vent from the canister to the atmosphere - I don't want air/fuel going into the box, right?
I did find a restriction in one of the smaller hardlines that is connected to the fuel filler neck - it was more charcoal pellets. It was really clogged and I had a hard time removing them. At this point, there are no clogs, restrictions or charcoal pellets in any of the lines (including the charcoal canister), yet I still cannot properly fill the tank. Is the check valve now my only problem?
My wife told me today that the car "felt funny" and didn't "go when she stepped on the gas". Another symptom of the check valve?
I'm not entirely sure why adding fuel injector cleaner would have caused this problem.
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I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
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What is the easiest way to empty the gas tank in an '01 Accent GS 1.6 auto without dropping the tank? The gas in the Accent tank is doing no good if I can't drive it, so I wanted to drain it and put it in my Camry. I was thinking of pulling the fuel pump and siphoning from there?
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I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2004 Hyundai accent hatchback with 225000km. The first time I drove it for over an hour, 1 trip no stops, the fuel gauge dropped to empty while there was 3/4 of a tank. The 2nd time I drove over an 1 the fuel gauge dropped again and the gas light came on (again around 3/4 of a tank). My mechanic said until it does it consistently he can't diagnose so I let it go.
More recently, driving it to and from work 5 days, plus some extra city driving, I used 1/4 tank the full week. Today I picked up 4 winter tires and bringing them home (approximately the same distance as my work) I used 1/4 tank right there. I understand it is weighed down, but could it really be that much? What is causing the fuel jumps and gauge jumps? I've already had the float replaced.
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01 vw passat 1.8, spark plug hole number 2 is full of liquid possibly anti freeze, head gasket looks wet. Water pump is pumping and thermostat is opening, car overheated. Also my engine clicks so bad it sounds like a diesel when i am below 1500 rpms but above with more oil pressure it's fine, I have been told camshaft.
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Recently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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Hyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
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I just bought a 2014 Prius- Pkg. 2 car. I had an '06 & an '08 Prius and kept the tire pressure @ 44 Lb.s for maximum mileage. I always fill my tank to the top well after the pump clicks off.
1) The dlr. told me I will only get an accurate MPG by not filling the tank after the pump clicks off. He claims the computer doesn't read the extra 1-2 gallons and that is causing me to get about 35 MPG even though the trip meter says 50 MPG.
2) The dlr. told me not to run my tires @ 44 lbs. Said it is a safety issue. I've been doing 44 lbs. since 2006 with great mileage and no safety issues.
Am I wrong for filling my tank to the top? My Prius has just over 600 miles today.
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I have a 09 sonata NF. The gas pump continually clicks off while filling the tank. I saw this issue discussed here before but I cannot find it. Has to do with a vapor canister and valve?
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