Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Turns Over Once Then Clicks Loudly A Few Times - Coil Pack Faulty
Jul 26, 2011
I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
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6 weeks ago my 2012 Tiguan, that I had only had for 7 months) was hit. I was sitting at a light and rear ended. Has been in shop getting the almost 10K damaged fixed while I drove a rental. Most of damage was to the rear drivers side and underneath as it messed up tire and all connected parts underneath. Body man was excellent and ordered all new parts and it looks perfect with no alignment issues, (which I was most worried about). I was so happy to get my Tiguan back home but it was short lived. Drove home, about 70 miles, then another 60 during the day and all was find except a little noise under the hood.
This noise is pretty normal as the Tiguan is somewhat loud going up hill and such. Later that evening we go in to leave and it wouldn't start. Just turns over and clicks/grinds somewhat, loudly then shuts down. Hasn't started in 2 days now. Right before we parked it the check engine light came on and the fuel was a bit low, but not empty. We added more gas, checked oil, etc. Three lights come one when you try to start it, battery, engine, and EPC. We have used a scanner and received codes for POO16 Crank Shaft Position/CAm Shaft position correlation/bank 1 sensor A. Not sure what to do at this point because it could be several different things and the nearest dealer is 75 miles away.
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I went to emissions test my 2002 Accent, 1.5L 5spd, and failed because of a faulty engine coolant sensor. Problem is, I can't find it anywhere! Worse, I can't find anything online either. I have my second child on the way and need to sell the car and this is the only thing preventing me to sell. Is it worth it to replace myself or to take to a shop and have them do it.
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B5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
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2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
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I seem to have a big loss of power. I just got my 337 last week and it was faster than expected with the GIAC chip. I drove down to mass in the rain last weekend and now it seems slow as hell. My question is does a bad coil pack cause a check engine light to go on? My car's check engine light is NOT on and I do have a boost gauge, and it seems to be boosting normal so I imagine it is not a boost leak. If it were misfiring I imagine I would really know it, but I've never had a misfire on a turbo car so I am not sure how bad it is affected.
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1.8 had recent coil pack problems? I recently had a coil pack fail in very hot weather 2 weeks ago. This week during another heat wave I believe the coil was again causing the engine to start missing. I know about VW's past reliability problems concerning coil packs and am now concerned that this may be surfacing again.
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My 2004 1.6 L accent does the following, no matter how much gasoline is or is not in the tank: Whenever I remove and replace the gas cap [which is brand new], as i drive away, the engine light flashes quickly about 20-25 times; rests for about 15 seconds and flashes again about 20-25 times. Thereafter it goes out for the rest of the drive. while it is flashing, the car idles roughly. This happens even if i only remove the cap to add some water absorbent or some injector cleaner. it also happens when i fill up the tank. by the way, i NEVER TOP UP. I always quit filling with gasoline when the pump goes "thunk." this has me completely stumped.
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
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I have a 2001 Accent with a 1.6L engine. My son drove it yesterday with no problem. This morning when he tried to start it we would get a click from the starter when he turned the key and that's all. Tried jumping it. That didn't work. So I jumped to conclusions and replaced the starter. I have the same problem. Click.
I have taken the old starter and the battery to AutoZone and had them both tested. They both work fine. (They'll let me return the new starter if I want to remove it). I've cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps. I still get the same click. What I did notice tonight after all of this is that when I turn the key the cable end/terminal clamp on the positive terminal SMOKES!
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Just got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
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I have a 2003 accent 1.6L ... It's been like this for a while, but when filling up, it clicks and stop filling like if it was full, but it is not. I can maybe get 0,30$ worth of gas in before it clicks. Then I have to wait a couple of seconds, and do it again.
I have read that it might be the charcoal filter that is clogged. Is there any way to fix this? from what I have read this filter is inside the gas tank.
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I was removing the coil packs on my car in preparation for the new ones coming in. The far right coil pack came out very easily and was about half as long as I expected. The other half of the coil pack was at the bottom of the spark plug well. I reported a misfire yesterday. As the mechanic would say "now there's your problem". removing the bottom half of a coil pack?
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I have a 2006 Grand Prix and the same coil pack has gone 3 times in one year. Each time i have my coil pack replaced i also get my spark plug replaced. Why does the same coil pack keep going bad and how can i fix it?
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Need to replace coil pack on cylinder #3. What is the firing order? 2004 - V8, 52,000
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I'm driving down the road yesterday, and going through a intersection, get through it i'm in 3rd gear, 20mph, and my car starts to misfire, so i am like crap coil pack, i changed them all with new plugs maybe 1000 miles ago. Well I slow down so i can turn around and head back to my place slowly a mile away. and it never happens again. Now the car had just had the complete exhaust replaced last week, and literally only 9 miles put on the car before this happened. I drove 35 miles to work today, and roughly 50 miles last night after this and it has not happened anymore. Am i doomed for coil pack failure again?
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I had taken my engine into the shop and had to have to engine replaced, I would have done it myself and would have saved a bunch of money, however I did not have the time. So I had the same exact engine placed into my MK3 from an old Passet, the only issue I'm having now is the sounding of a misfire on one of the plugs..
Only thing is, all plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm thinking the Coil pack is on it's way out the door. The mechanic said it was the original coil pack so that would make sense. It's a 1997 2.8L 6cyl engine.. I'm looking into purchasing a new pack, and on a website that I had been using a lot lately, only had MK4 coil packs.. Can I replace an MK3 pack with an MK4? Would i have to change the plugs and wires again?
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So before I go buying 10 new coil packs I will test them first.....How many ohms should they read when tested with the meter. I am finding ranges 1.1-1.3. Old or new they are all reading the same. So look my plugs are AWFUL...changing this for sure.
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I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5. I just changed the spark plugs and wires and now I hear a clicking coming from the middle coil pack. At first I could see it arcing on the bottom to the metal part that holds the plug wire. I removed it and added some dielectric grease and the arcing seemed to stop, but the clicking noise is still happening. Does this indicate a bad ignition coil or do I just need to add more dielectric grease? The idle is still a little rougher than I would like, but I don't want to just throw parts at it.
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