Accent LC (2000-05) :: Bogs Down When Under Load Between 2700 - 2900 RPM
Apr 16, 2014
2002 Hyundia Accent -- 1.6 DOHC 2D
When I get to 2700-2900 RPM Under load my car will chug out (basically lose power all together for a brief second) then it will come back and chug out again. I am able to max out RPM's while doing this however under load it still chugs along. WHEN not under load it rev's up fine and purr's like a kitten.
So I went and got a new motor for this car same model as was in the car before a 1.6 DOHC. However upon replacing it (also attached still was the timing belt and clutch assembly, never taken off)
So it seems to be getting spark just fine. and I replaced the MAP sensor thinking it was a intake issue however still problem exists when I am under load between 2700 - 2900 RPM it bogs out for a second losing all power.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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I have a new problem that I only discovered a few days ago. As I come to a stop at a traffic light, turning out of somewhere or whatever if I give the car a little more gas than normal not that I punch it or anything from a stop the car bogs down and bangs a little rough like I was rear ended. The car is in drive when it happens. Its just fine any other time. I was told it could be as simple as a bad tps or as bad as a defective torque converter or tranny. Its a 2005 gls hatchback with the 1.8L. also, the engine has been running a little rough recently too if that could have anything to do with it. No warning lights are on either.
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent 5 speed with 76k and a 1.5. the spark plug boots arc on all 4 plugs and can see a light blue line down the center of the wires also. But while idling you see nothing till u snap the throttle. Also driving while its under load you can really feel the miss in 3rd gear. Ok here"s what I've done I cleaned up all my grounds on motor and body ,also cleaned spark plug threads. i replaced wires with 5 different brands including factory wires and same thing. I've tried all kinds of different plugs from regular coppers to iridium and changing plug gaps with no change. the coil was replaced,crank sensor changed and does same thing.
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Here is my car.....
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When I first got my Accent a few weeks a go I thought this car just had unique braking functions with the ABS valve, but after driving it every day for a few weeks I think that perhaps the problem is the way the car downshifts.
Whenever I am braking and the car downshifts to 2nd gear at around 25MPH I feel the engine bog down, almost as if you were downshifting at too high of an RPM. However it only happens if I am braking slowly, when I need to brake harder I don't seem to notice it, either because it doesn't do it or because I can't feel it over the more pronounced forward momentum.
I verified that it does seem to be the engine or transmission, because if I brake with the car in neutral it won't do it. So my question would be is this just a normal function of this car, or should I take it in to be checked out?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
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17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
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Anyway, the transmission shifts great now, but when I put it in reverse it the engine jumps up 200 rpm and then it bogs down as it engages reverse forcefully. It also does this while selecting 1st from Park.
From what I'm reading it's the TC not unlocking and/or a fluid pressure/volume issue. I've also read the filter might have fallen off, I had a hell of a time keeping it in place. I've checked the the fluid level and everything is good there. My question is when I drop the pan, aside from the filter, what should I look for?
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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Around 2900-3100rpm there is a buzzing feeling through the pedals/steering wheel. You notice it a lot more going up hills. The dealer noticed it too and is contacting "TAS" to see what they think.
What I'm wondering is if this is just a normal engine harmonic deal and it is what it is? I test drove other models (Civic,Focus,Elantra) and I didn't notice them having it.
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This is a accent 2015 Sr poor performance under load and when I have passengers. This car is 1 month old. 1.6 lt.
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