Ford Transmission :: 2000 F250 Engine Bogs Down In Reverse And 1st
Jul 27, 2015
So last weekend I installed a transgo kit for my 4R100 transmission in my 2000 F250 diesel. I didn't really care about getting a shift kit, but I had problems with delayed shifts and figured the accumulator springs had broken. It turns out that was correct, the 2nd gear spring came out in 8 pieces.
Anyway, the transmission shifts great now, but when I put it in reverse it the engine jumps up 200 rpm and then it bogs down as it engages reverse forcefully. It also does this while selecting 1st from Park.
From what I'm reading it's the TC not unlocking and/or a fluid pressure/volume issue. I've also read the filter might have fallen off, I had a hell of a time keeping it in place. I've checked the the fluid level and everything is good there. My question is when I drop the pan, aside from the filter, what should I look for?
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This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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I am having an issue with a Ford f250, 5.4L, granted this problem existed before and after new A/C compressor, dryer, evaporator, vent door switch, blower motor resistor, new evac and recharge, good pressures no leaks.........Now my problem is the truck runs perfect but when the ac engages at idle the engine bogs down and it seems the clutch is constantly engaging and disengaging........AC blows cold, no issues there, does this sound like an IAC valve problem????
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
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I've got a 2002 f250 7.3L 4x4 auto trans and I've done quite a bit of searching and cant seem to find any definite answer. I drove 40 miles today no problem. pulled into a stall at sonic and when I went to leave no reverse. I was even on a downhill slope, but it wouldn't budge. I got a friend to come up there and we tried to pull it, wouldn't budge.... I disconnected the driveshaft and it rolled downhill without us even having to hook onto it again. Once it was out I hopped in and put it in drive and it took right off.
It did feel like maybe I had to give it a little extra gas to get it moving but maybe I'm just paranoid. I know once I got on the road it was cruising 65 no problem in drive. I got it to my job and noticed that when I put it in reverse the OD off light flashes and if I mash the gas with it in reverse it actually acts like its trying to push it forwards. I did jack the rear end up and put it in reverse and the tires make a half rotation but in the wrong direction then come to a dead stop.... with the tires jacked up off the ground Drive would spin them, 2 would spin them, but 1 would stop them like somebody locked up the brakes.
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I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
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I have a '95 F-250 7.3 auto 4X4. The transfer case linkage has been floppy and prone to coming apart since I've had it, but that's been fine for me. I let my brother use the truck last weekend, and now it does the following: When you put the transmission in reverse, or when the truck overruns the engine (compression braking) it grinds badly like the transfer case isn't quite engaged. Only does it in 2 or 4 Hi, and everything's normal otherwise.
Could the transfer case have jumped out of gear while he was driving it, and he didn't know to either push it into gear or pull it into neutral before it did damage? I really don't want to pull a transfer case in my driveway in December in New England, but give it to me straight.
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We installed a TransGo HD-2 "reprogramming kit" into my friends 96 F-250 460 4x4 E4OD in preparation for future engine modifications. The problem is it didn't work correctly.
All forward gears work (some shifts are harder then stock, but many of the shifts are just as soft as stock, which in itself may be another issue). We drilled the separator plate for the V8, we may try the diesel size next though...1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th + tq lockup all work however.
Anyways, the major problem is that it no longer has reverse. If you shift from reverse to neutral, the RPM seems to go up a little bit as if it were in gear a bit, but give it some gas and it acts like it is in neutral. Obviously something went very wrong.
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I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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I've got a 76 F-250 4x4 C6 and the transmission has been kind of quirky since I've owned it. I'm starting to tow with it occasionally and I'd like to get this sorted out. It only has issues cold. After 5 minutes at most its good to go, probably more like 2-3 minutes. After that it works 100% as it should.
When cold, reverse is really weak. If I fire it up cold and go for reverse it will hardly move. If I put it in neutral and run it at 2000rpm for about 30 seconds it will pull but still weak. And after getting out on the road 1st and 2nd are great but 3rd gear is basically non-existent, all slip. I just hold it in 2nd for a few minutes then its fine. There are absolutely no issues when it warms up. I was towing my Bronco with it and absolutely no slippage at all. I'm dealing with it for now. Don't back up when cold and hold it in 2nd for a bit when cold only. That or rev it before reverse etc.
I have adjusted the band. I have never changed the fluid. I did buy new fluid for it but have not done it. Who knows that kind of fluid is even in it. The fluid is a little dark but its really not that bad and doesn't smell burnt. I'm in the market for a 4 door super duty so I might just have to limp it along until then.
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1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
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2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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I bought late 98 F-250, 5.4 G, 4WD. OHad to replace the steering flange because they messed up the ignition cylinder and flange. Truck didn't run for 4 years. 249K miles, no history available. Got the engine running, no DTCs. D, 3, 2, 1 barely moved the truck forward but, R hauled butt in reverse. Checked transmission fluid it was good and clean.
Came back to it a few days later it threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit) and I have no reverse, park feels like it wants to move, R is neutral, N is forward, D is forward, 3 is forward, 2 is forward, 1 is forward. The N is full drive. I cleared the P0720 code after it came up and it has not returned. The instrument gauges work but the odometer display is intermittent. Linkage? Fluid? Sensor? Wires?
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I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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I have a 2004 f250 6.0 factory as can be I haven't did anything to it mechanical wise but lately while driving the truck bogs down while I am driving. If I give it a little gas or get off the gas it will clear up or sometimes while I am driving if it doesn't bog down, and I am trying to accelerate the truck will start to turbo bark.
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I own a 2000 Ford F250 4x4 equipped with the 5.4L and an auto trans that was purchased 2 yrs ago. Last summer we had some noise and leaks from the trans. Dealership fixed us with with a new pump and torque converter, fixed the problem. Now I have an issue where the truck will go into reverse, but will not go into any forward gears. Fuid level is fine, no signs or symptoms of overheating, no noises, or symptoms of something obvious. My son drives the truck and has stated that sometimes the park/safty switch gives him problems when trying to start the vehicle, he has to "wiggle" the shifter (or put in Nuetral) to get it to start. I'm thinking maybe the shifter/linkage may be loose or something, rather than a real transmission problem.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4. When the engine an transmission is cold it jerks/ Bogs when it shifts. After it warms up it doesn't jerk to bad sometimes but you can still notice it. Also when it shifts the RPM's drop low causing it to bog and jerk. RPM's will go from 1600 to about 800 when it shifts. It is and auto transmission. Today I wanted to try something so I pressed the button to turn the over drive off. Well it shift real good with the OD Off. Seem like with the OD Off it keeps the RPM's up a little higher so it doesn't bog and jerk. I put an Edge Programmer on it, but that didn't work. Still does the same thing with or without the programmer. I changed all my spark plug and coil packs. Truck goes great until it shifts.
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