Ford Transmission :: 1976 F250 - Hardly Move When Go For Reverse If Fire Up Cold
Feb 22, 2013
I've got a 76 F-250 4x4 C6 and the transmission has been kind of quirky since I've owned it. I'm starting to tow with it occasionally and I'd like to get this sorted out. It only has issues cold. After 5 minutes at most its good to go, probably more like 2-3 minutes. After that it works 100% as it should.
When cold, reverse is really weak. If I fire it up cold and go for reverse it will hardly move. If I put it in neutral and run it at 2000rpm for about 30 seconds it will pull but still weak. And after getting out on the road 1st and 2nd are great but 3rd gear is basically non-existent, all slip. I just hold it in 2nd for a few minutes then its fine. There are absolutely no issues when it warms up. I was towing my Bronco with it and absolutely no slippage at all. I'm dealing with it for now. Don't back up when cold and hold it in 2nd for a bit when cold only. That or rev it before reverse etc.
I have adjusted the band. I have never changed the fluid. I did buy new fluid for it but have not done it. Who knows that kind of fluid is even in it. The fluid is a little dark but its really not that bad and doesn't smell burnt. I'm in the market for a 4 door super duty so I might just have to limp it along until then.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
View 5 Replies
I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
View 5 Replies
Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 Replies
2004 BMW 330i 140k miles.
We first noticed this problem a year or so ago. At first, it happened only on cool mornings if the car had been parked outside. The cold car would require 3-4,000 RPM to move, forward or reverse. After about one minute or 3-4 blocks, the transmission worked perfectly at the touch of the throttle for the rest of the day.
It only happens about half the time. Other times, even if cool and after being parked for days, the transmission engages normally from idle and up.
Once recently, it deviated from this pattern. After sitting overnight, it started and pulled into the garage normally. I shut it off for a couple of minutes to place ramps in front of the tires and restarted the car. It did not want to move on the second start. It took 3500 RPM to climb the ramps. That was scary. The car has never suddenly engaged, but if it had suddenly engaged at that moment, it would have shot me through the front of the garage.
Last week I took it to the transmission specialty shop with the best reviews in town. As life would have it, he kept it three days, driving it four times, and it worked perfectly each time he drove it. Fluid looks fine (replaced at 120k miles) and fluid level is perfect. No codes stored in transmission computer.
I thought it was intermittently draining the torque converter until this last time when it failed after being shut off for only a couple of minutes.
The transmission guy is not interested in rebuilding the transmission even if I wanted to try it. He worries that because he does not know what is causing the problem.
View 3 Replies
I bought a truck recently and I am attempting to get the alternator to charge. A previous owner hacked up the wiring pretty badly. We found that they had connected the voltage regulator to the horn relay for some reason. Anyway, I am trying to get it rewired and have searched existing threads for info and I thought that I had the wiring sorted out, however it is still not charging the battery.
The alternator has been tested and works. The voltage regulator is new. This is how it is currently wired.
Regulator A Terminal --> Battery side of started solenoid --> Alternator Batt Post
Regulator F Terminal --> Alternator Fld Post
Regulator S Terminal --> Alternator Sta Post
Regulator I Terminal --> Empty
Regulator body --> Radiator Support --> Alternator Ground Post --> Neg batt
When running, the battery is showing about 11.8 and slowly dropping as it runs. The truck has an ammeter in the dash, however it looks like it is no longer connected. Does it need to be connected in order for the alternator to charge the battery?
View 4 Replies
I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 Replies
I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 Replies
I have a 76 f250/460 engine. I have replaced the hoses, belts, water pump, fan clutch, flowed the radiator and it still overheats.
View 4 Replies
2000 Intrigue 144,000 miles.
When you first start it up, the vehicle won't move in any gear. After a while of idling, it may start to drive, but the engine RPMs are way too high for the corresponding speed that you're driving. 4000 RPMs to hold 45 MPH.
Could this be the input piston? I've heard those wear and then don't seal well, bleeding off fluid pressure. Torque converter?
Also, the one diagnostic code is P0742 - TCC stuck on. I realize that this could be unrelated to the vehicle not moving when cold.
View 5 Replies
I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
View 7 Replies
02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
View 6 Replies
I've got a 2002 f250 7.3L 4x4 auto trans and I've done quite a bit of searching and cant seem to find any definite answer. I drove 40 miles today no problem. pulled into a stall at sonic and when I went to leave no reverse. I was even on a downhill slope, but it wouldn't budge. I got a friend to come up there and we tried to pull it, wouldn't budge.... I disconnected the driveshaft and it rolled downhill without us even having to hook onto it again. Once it was out I hopped in and put it in drive and it took right off.
It did feel like maybe I had to give it a little extra gas to get it moving but maybe I'm just paranoid. I know once I got on the road it was cruising 65 no problem in drive. I got it to my job and noticed that when I put it in reverse the OD off light flashes and if I mash the gas with it in reverse it actually acts like its trying to push it forwards. I did jack the rear end up and put it in reverse and the tires make a half rotation but in the wrong direction then come to a dead stop.... with the tires jacked up off the ground Drive would spin them, 2 would spin them, but 1 would stop them like somebody locked up the brakes.
View 7 Replies
So last weekend I installed a transgo kit for my 4R100 transmission in my 2000 F250 diesel. I didn't really care about getting a shift kit, but I had problems with delayed shifts and figured the accumulator springs had broken. It turns out that was correct, the 2nd gear spring came out in 8 pieces.
Anyway, the transmission shifts great now, but when I put it in reverse it the engine jumps up 200 rpm and then it bogs down as it engages reverse forcefully. It also does this while selecting 1st from Park.
From what I'm reading it's the TC not unlocking and/or a fluid pressure/volume issue. I've also read the filter might have fallen off, I had a hell of a time keeping it in place. I've checked the the fluid level and everything is good there. My question is when I drop the pan, aside from the filter, what should I look for?
View 4 Replies
I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
View 8 Replies
My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
View 9 Replies
I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
View 4 Replies
I have a '95 F-250 7.3 auto 4X4. The transfer case linkage has been floppy and prone to coming apart since I've had it, but that's been fine for me. I let my brother use the truck last weekend, and now it does the following: When you put the transmission in reverse, or when the truck overruns the engine (compression braking) it grinds badly like the transfer case isn't quite engaged. Only does it in 2 or 4 Hi, and everything's normal otherwise.
Could the transfer case have jumped out of gear while he was driving it, and he didn't know to either push it into gear or pull it into neutral before it did damage? I really don't want to pull a transfer case in my driveway in December in New England, but give it to me straight.
View 9 Replies
We installed a TransGo HD-2 "reprogramming kit" into my friends 96 F-250 460 4x4 E4OD in preparation for future engine modifications. The problem is it didn't work correctly.
All forward gears work (some shifts are harder then stock, but many of the shifts are just as soft as stock, which in itself may be another issue). We drilled the separator plate for the V8, we may try the diesel size next though...1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th + tq lockup all work however.
Anyways, the major problem is that it no longer has reverse. If you shift from reverse to neutral, the RPM seems to go up a little bit as if it were in gear a bit, but give it some gas and it acts like it is in neutral. Obviously something went very wrong.
View 10 Replies
I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
View 7 Replies
I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
View 1 Replies
