My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
View 9 RepliesI'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
View 6 Replies2004 BMW 330i 140k miles.
We first noticed this problem a year or so ago. At first, it happened only on cool mornings if the car had been parked outside. The cold car would require 3-4,000 RPM to move, forward or reverse. After about one minute or 3-4 blocks, the transmission worked perfectly at the touch of the throttle for the rest of the day.
It only happens about half the time. Other times, even if cool and after being parked for days, the transmission engages normally from idle and up.
Once recently, it deviated from this pattern. After sitting overnight, it started and pulled into the garage normally. I shut it off for a couple of minutes to place ramps in front of the tires and restarted the car. It did not want to move on the second start. It took 3500 RPM to climb the ramps. That was scary. The car has never suddenly engaged, but if it had suddenly engaged at that moment, it would have shot me through the front of the garage.
Last week I took it to the transmission specialty shop with the best reviews in town. As life would have it, he kept it three days, driving it four times, and it worked perfectly each time he drove it. Fluid looks fine (replaced at 120k miles) and fluid level is perfect. No codes stored in transmission computer.
I thought it was intermittently draining the torque converter until this last time when it failed after being shut off for only a couple of minutes.
The transmission guy is not interested in rebuilding the transmission even if I wanted to try it. He worries that because he does not know what is causing the problem.
The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
I have an 06 Montana sv6 that clunks when I start to move forward or reverse. Not when I put it in gear but as I start to move. It also does it when I take off from a stop sign. It doesn't make any noise while driving or turning though.
View 1 Replies2000 ranger v6 automatic trans electronic 4wd shift on the dash. Plowing snow all of the sudden lost both forward and reverse never slipped or made any noise. Transmission fluid is fine to the level and clean. Put in drive nothing and reverse nothing put it back in park you can hear the park paul trying to click in. Towed it back to the shop thinking maybe the transfer case was junk. Decided to check the actuator on the transfer case no power going to it, go back to the switch no power there either check the fuses both are good and have power. The question i have is could a bad GEM module cause all this? ps the windshield wipers do work.
View 6 RepliesAfter washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
View 10 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 RepliesI am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 RepliesI just purchase 09 LS460 41k miles AWD. I was returning from a nice highway ride had driven about an hour doing an average around 80 getting 23.3MPH. As I was arriving home I stop at the store when i was leaving the store I turned right in front of traffic hit the accelerator and the car would barely move I released hit the gas again gunned it no power and the car gradually got up to speed 35MPH, So i went down the street a little came to a stop made a hard right and gunned it and my moped would get up to speed faster than the car would.
View 14 RepliesThe transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
I fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
My right front window would barely move when I was opening it. Binding real bad on the way down. So I pulled the door panel, ( a two minute affair ) lubed all the tracks with silicone grease. Now the window goes down very easily.
I had all four doors done in an hour. To remove the door panels, remove the red reflector from the door, remove the screw underneath of it. Gently pry up on the window switch bezel at the front for the front door, and the side for the rear doors if so equipped. There will be another screw underneath. Unplug the switch, remove the screw. Remove the trip piece from above the hinge area. Push up on the panel and it comes off.
I used that real thick silicone grease that you can get a plumbers supply for lubing faucet o-rings. It looks like double thick vaseline. Windows work like a dream now.
I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
View 10 RepliesWhen I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
View 15 RepliesHere's the story and unfortunately no happy ending so my VW started rubbing on the front right side a lot, causing my tires to rip on the front right end. After a while of sitting in the garage i finally decided to go and get a new tire for the car
on the way to the tire shop i noticed some very weird squeaking, i figured it was from the spare tire but it continued even on the new tire. That same night heading to the gym, the R started jerking while driving, almost as if i was pressing the brakes while driving
eventually the car just locks all the tires out of no where, i barely manage to pull into a side street and i could not even make it more than 4 feet from the curb forward. A friend of mine stopped by that saw me, he pulled a cable that seemed to have been wrapped around my axle, said it might of been causing the problem. As i drove away, maybe half a mile more, the car locks up entirely again, this time unable to even get to the side of the street it locked up completely in the middle of an intersection. now here is where it gets really strange. Even in neutral the car refuses to go forward, it was on a hill, in neutral and the car refused to move. So i attempted to push it a little, in drive, i pushed on the gas. it almost feels like the car is setting up for launch control, like the brakes are being held down and it moves about 6-10 feet and grinds to a halt, same in reverse. It took us almost 20 minutes to get it up on a trailer and another 20 to get it into the garage just going 2 steps forward and 1 back the whole time.
I have heard anywhere from transmission to drive train, to transfer boxes and axles to even a warped rotor causing this. Where to start?
The car is a 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine.
The problem is: about once a month the gas pedal won't go down when trying to move forward after the car has come to a full stop. Feels like I'm stepping on a rock when I step on the pedal. Then I tap on the pedal with my foot a few times and the pedal will go down smoothly, car accelerates and everything feels normal until it happens again.
Where to look for the interference if that is what it is? Also,I tried to cause this hard pedal to happen & have been unable to do so.
My drivers seat wont disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Any shot from the manual before I take it apart?
My drivers seat won't disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Looking for a shot from the manual before I take it apart?