Lexus LS 2007+ :: No Power - Car Will Barely Move
Feb 22, 2013
I just purchase 09 LS460 41k miles AWD. I was returning from a nice highway ride had driven about an hour doing an average around 80 getting 23.3MPH. As I was arriving home I stop at the store when i was leaving the store I turned right in front of traffic hit the accelerator and the car would barely move I released hit the gas again gunned it no power and the car gradually got up to speed 35MPH, So i went down the street a little came to a stop made a hard right and gunned it and my moped would get up to speed faster than the car would.
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Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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I fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
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My right front window would barely move when I was opening it. Binding real bad on the way down. So I pulled the door panel, ( a two minute affair ) lubed all the tracks with silicone grease. Now the window goes down very easily.
I had all four doors done in an hour. To remove the door panels, remove the red reflector from the door, remove the screw underneath of it. Gently pry up on the window switch bezel at the front for the front door, and the side for the rear doors if so equipped. There will be another screw underneath. Unplug the switch, remove the screw. Remove the trip piece from above the hinge area. Push up on the panel and it comes off.
I used that real thick silicone grease that you can get a plumbers supply for lubing faucet o-rings. It looks like double thick vaseline. Windows work like a dream now.
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I noticed lately that my ls is barely blowing air through the vent. I can hear the climate operating but there is barely any air coming out.
Tried to replace the air filter to no avail. Car in the vid run on electric mode but when I'm driving it's the same thing.
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I took my first road trip with my family in our new LS460L up through Donner's Pass and into Reno. This car just gobbles up miles. But what I did notice is that going through the mountain pass, the car barely hiccups through the curves and hills. Before you know it, you're pulling lateral g's.
The other thing I notice is that it's really easy to get comfortable in this car. It's just pure smooth silk. Makes me want to go into a trance. I'm not talking about the crap that BMW drivers throw at Lexus cars about detachment etc. Personally I love the smoothness.
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The transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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My power seat will not move to the rear, only forward. Looking for a wiring diagram that would show how I can use jumpers to move it back?
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My 2010 Rx has just recently been doing funny things, and when I mention it to non lexus owners i get the stink eye, as in you're really complaining about that?
So I turn to you, I think you all are familiar with when you press on the break and hit the start button the power seat rolls you into memory 1 (I am the sole driver) well i have noticed that when I do this, my seat moves up about an inch and then pauses while the car literally starts up it then continues to move the chair all the way forward.
Also when i go to lock my car from my keys the chirping confirmation isn't as loud as it once was. its raspy somehow? I was sure if these two things have any correlation but I noticed these two issues together.
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I have a 2007 Camry SE 4C. 104K miles on the clock and no issues until now. The car has never been in the shop. I do my own work, which amounts to oil changes and I replaced the pads a few weeks ago. Yeah over 100k on the original pads and still at 30%.
About a month ago I took a freeway drive and the low fuel light came on. I was in the middle of no where so no gas stations nearby. After about ten minutes of driving at 60mph the check engine light came on. Shortly thereafter I reached a gas station and filled up. The check engine light went out. Got home and did a visual check and didn't see anything. Yesterday the low fuel light came on. This morning my 36 month battery was acting weak after 21 months. The car barely started. Got to the gas station and filled up and the battery seems to be stronger now. My theory is the low fuel light/circuitry is causing the problem.
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My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
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What's going on with my sonata. Its an 06 GLS 4 cylinder, 168k miles. I've actually had the problem before, and it lasted maybe about a week or two before the car went back to normal by itself. But a couple days ago it has returned. The car barely goes! All it wants to do is rev and not go. Coming from a complete stop is the worse, as it takes me forever to get up there in speed. I already feel like a danger on the road by sometimes not being able to keep up with traffic. Once I get up there in speed I'm able to keep it at that. I thought it was maybe the spark plugs last time, so I changed them, but that didn't seem to be it. I know the car has electrical issues, now I'm just thinking its that since its done it before and went back to normal. I took a video to get a better idea of what its like. [URL] ....
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So my aunt's celica just crapped out on her over night. Car was running normal till the morning she was going to work. She started it and had all kinds of problems.
Basically, engine has no power. I live not too far from her (half a mile) and i tried to drive it to my house to work on it, and it was a terrible drive. I had to keep it in first the whole time, with the car barely accelerating.
Car has new spark plugs, new cap rotor and wires, Here is a pic of how the spark plugs look like after 3k miles
I checked timing and it was perfectly aligned, i swapped over a known good dizzy and nothing has changed.
Changed out the ect sensor for a new one, nothing has changed.
Here is a video of how it runs .....
Not sure what that popping is but it sounds like it's coming from inside the intake manifold.
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Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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This is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
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My 2001 7.3 is smoking only when barely on the gas. New fuel filter. Don't know if its possible injector going bad or what? Smoke is white not black.
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So from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
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I am new to the ford deisel. I have a 2005 F250 6.0 liter power stroke. it has been bullet proofed with EGR delete. Has an after market intake. An Edge TC tuner, and alot of extras. My question is why am I having shaking in the front end when my foot is barely on the gas. If i give it more gas it goes away as soon as the boost kicks up to around 2 or 3. It does this every time I take my foot on and off the pedal. It will only last for a second if i give it alot of gas. But if I barely touch the pedal it will shake the whole time until the boost kicks in.
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