Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Stuttering On Acceleration / Fuel PSI At Idle Barely Move
Dec 12, 2016
I fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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So, after sitting for about 4 weeks, I go to start my 2011 F350, 16,000 miles, with a 6.7. Barely runs, "misses", fuel pouring from the underside of the motor, all over the ground. I figure out pretty quickly, #8 fuel injector was blown out of its hole. Clamp is busted.
Two days later (this morning), dealer calls and says we have all the parts we need to fix your truck, except the clamp. Guy says no ETA on the clamp from Ford. Truck will just sit, for an indefinite period of time. Asked him what they were going to do. He said, wait for the part to show up.
Putting aside the oddity of the clamp breaking, how is it that Ford doesn't have the part and doesn't know when it will? Is this a Ford problem or a lazy dealer? This really won't do. Its racing season and I need my truck!
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My right front window would barely move when I was opening it. Binding real bad on the way down. So I pulled the door panel, ( a two minute affair ) lubed all the tracks with silicone grease. Now the window goes down very easily.
I had all four doors done in an hour. To remove the door panels, remove the red reflector from the door, remove the screw underneath of it. Gently pry up on the window switch bezel at the front for the front door, and the side for the rear doors if so equipped. There will be another screw underneath. Unplug the switch, remove the screw. Remove the trip piece from above the hinge area. Push up on the panel and it comes off.
I used that real thick silicone grease that you can get a plumbers supply for lubing faucet o-rings. It looks like double thick vaseline. Windows work like a dream now.
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Been having a problem with fuel pressure dropping under acceleration intermittently. Normally runs around 65psi, sometimes at idle or normal driving is only 55-60psi lately. Most of the time it has done this it dropped to 50 and I let of the pedal and it will slowly go back to around 55. Then I just baby it and it will slowly creep back up to 60 or maybe 65. A couple times it has gone below 50 after letting of the pedal and wouldn't go back up, so I actually pulled over and shut the engine off and cycled the key to get it back up. Once this happened while towing up a hill, I could only get to around 35mph really had to baby it and at the top I pulled over and cycled the key and it came right back up. At the time I attributed it to the steep hill, 11k trailer, and the tank only being about 1/4 full.
Since I put the fuel gauge on way before any of this started happening, it has always fluctuated 2-3psi at idle. I always thought it was kind of odd, maybe pointing to combustion gasses entering the injector through a bad seal or something weird like that, but a couple of people have told me that fluctuation is normal.
I'm thinking there's either a restriction in the fuel pickup or the pump is going bad. This problem happens even when the tank is full, but seems worse on a low tank. I change my fuel filters every 10k mi, I'm at about 9k right now so I guess it could be dirty filters? Got lots of towing over the passes coming up as fishing season is just starting and I'm sure we'll be spending as many weekends we can at the beach camping.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
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Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
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As most of us probably do up in the colder regions, idle time likely increases to some degree. I do have and use the high idle mod unless it's a cold start and the truck does it on it's own during warm up.
I guess what I have always wondered is how much fuel does one actually use during idle? Reason I ask is it has not really hurt the mileage that much at this point from what I have been seeing. Sure it does go down but it's not really bad.
How long do posters here let a truck sit and idle, for instance when running an errand or making a stop?
10 minutes?
20?
Longer?
We all know during cold weather the big over the road trucks will sit for an hour or longer when drivers stop, and most let them run all night if at a truck or rest stop.......granted the circumstances are different.
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I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
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I head out to work this morning and truck drive fine. I do not get on it. I cruised on the highway for 12 miles at 70 mph. I get to a traffic light and then it begins to idle rough and my fuel pressure gauge reads 0. I replace both filters over a month ago and did the blue spring upgrade at the same time. I've put over 2000 miles on the truck since then without issues until this morning. Also the fuel pump was replaced by the dealer a year ago in July. No check engine codes. Where do I start looking?
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My 6.0 with 178k on it just started to have issues today. Low power. When I hit the pedal hard the motor revs and the truck barley moves. When I baby it it goes up to speed and shifts fine. Overall lacking power and not going anywhere. No CEL on. Turbo spools and seems to be ok.
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Finally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
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I've only owned a 6.0 for about 10 months now. I have a 2005 SCab FX4 with 125,000 miles on it. It has an Airaid cold air intake and MBRP exhaust without a muffler, everything else is stock. The stuttering/hesitation starts at about 1500 rpm, is worst at 1600rpm and seem so to go away at 2000rpm. It also seems to hesitate when I barely press the gas pedal while driving. Based on other fuel issues with other vehicles, I would assume this is a fuel problem, but am not well versed in the 6.0 engines. Fuel filters were said to be good by the dealership about 10,000 miles ago. EGR valve was replaced last week. I'm not blowing smoke of any color, even at WOT. I was thinking an injector may be the issue, but I show no other symptoms besides the hesitation/vibration. I don't feel any lack of power when I give it full throttle. I would like to know a definitive way to diagnose the problem without going to the stealership.
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Did a little experiment today. I was in Fairbanks this week and today it was between -35* and -40*F. Quite frankly I was too lazy to park my truck behind the building and plug in, so I just left it running.
2015 F350 KR, 63k miles. Fully deleted and tuned with a PPE Ez-Lynk. I've been running the stock tune because mileage seems about the same between all of them and when it's winter with ice and snow, you don't go anywhere fast. 5W40 synthetic oil with 7300 miles on it and 220ish hours. Change engine oil soon light has been on for the last 200 miles and 20 hours.
I have the BD Diesel high idle kit with the rotating switch to adjust the idle level. Fuel consumption was monitored using the truck computer, which I have found to be very accurate on a consistent basis. Computer was reset at the start of each trial.
Trial 1: RPMS set at 1250 via high idle kit. Truck idled for 6 hours, 10 minutes. Fuel consumption was indicated at 5.2 gallons, or roughly .85 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was about 185*F (remember ambient temp is -40). I was pretty surprised at how much fuel it used.
Trial 2: Back from lunch at Taco King. Figured the truck itself is pretty smart, so if the engine got too cold, it would probably boost the RPMS on it's own. Turned high idle off. Idled for 4 hours 15 minutes. Fuel consumption was 1.8 gallons, or roughly .43 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was 150*F. Much more reasonable consumption.
.85 gallons an hour is pretty expensive but .43 gallons an hour is much, much more economical.
The biggest difference, besides fuel consumption, was engine oil temperature with a 35* difference. Is 150*F a safe, sustainable oil temperature for these engines to idle at without causing excessive wear?
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Well my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
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Just a quick question on my new 6.7l instantaneous fuel economy display (green bar). At idle, the bar is pegged at 40l/100km. When the vehicle is moving, the bar graph drops down to its proper 14ishL/100km mark.
At idle, the vehicle display should be under the 14L mark, because the engine is using little fuel. When the display is pegged, it also causes the number display on the graph (the instantaneous 14L/100 number) to creep up as well. In the span of 3 or 4 minutes at idle, the instantaneous average (calculated number) will creep from approx 14.5l/100 to 19l/100. So its pretty obvious the computer is using the 40l/100 number in its average.
Id almost swear that the display was working correct when the truck was new (2 wks ago), I've done nothing to change it, but for whatever reason its working backwards to what it should be doing (all my other vehicles' instantaneous display drop to almost 0 when at idle).
Its not the end of the world, and I can wait till its at the dealer next time to figure it out, but it is a bit of an annoyance. I am not in the middle of a regen or something like that either, AFAIK. Actual mileage on a tank of fuel isnt reflecting that 40L/100 figure on the display.
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I have a friend with a 2012 F250. The truck has 100K miles and it does idle for extended periods. The other day his check engine light comes on so he took it the shop. They had not told him anything yet, but they did tell him that he had about a gallon to much oil. They said it was fuel.
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So from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
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I am new to the ford deisel. I have a 2005 F250 6.0 liter power stroke. it has been bullet proofed with EGR delete. Has an after market intake. An Edge TC tuner, and alot of extras. My question is why am I having shaking in the front end when my foot is barely on the gas. If i give it more gas it goes away as soon as the boost kicks up to around 2 or 3. It does this every time I take my foot on and off the pedal. It will only last for a second if i give it alot of gas. But if I barely touch the pedal it will shake the whole time until the boost kicks in.
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I have an 8 inch lift with 37x13.5 inch tires and dual front steering stabilizers. when I'm stopped I can barely turn the wheel. my buddy has a 6 inch lifted excursion with 35 inch tires in his is easy, one hand no problem. Would the difference in tire size really make that big of a difference or am I having a steering pump issue?
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2005 6.0 133000 miles... Truck has been stuttering and running rough for about 2 weeks, warms up and is somewhat better. Would stutter in the RPM range of 1600 to 2100 RPM, can push down on accelerator and power through it with no problems. Checked codes and got PO269 Contribution Cylinder 3. Changed all filters and oil change along with a bottle of hot shot secret in the oil. Truck is now blowing blackish grey smoke under throttle and when idling that smells like fuel. No coolant in oil, and no oil in coolant.is the injector shot, or injector sleeve bad?
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