Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Stuttering And Running Rough - Blackish Grey Smoke / Code PO269
Jun 23, 2016
2005 6.0 133000 miles... Truck has been stuttering and running rough for about 2 weeks, warms up and is somewhat better. Would stutter in the RPM range of 1600 to 2100 RPM, can push down on accelerator and power through it with no problems. Checked codes and got PO269 Contribution Cylinder 3. Changed all filters and oil change along with a bottle of hot shot secret in the oil. Truck is now blowing blackish grey smoke under throttle and when idling that smells like fuel. No coolant in oil, and no oil in coolant.is the injector shot, or injector sleeve bad?
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Just picked my 2005 excursion from being bulletproofed. Arp studs, oem head gaskets, turbo cleaned rebuilt, blue spring mod, 8 new Motorcraft injectors, rebuilt heads surfaced, new Ford oil cooler, egr plugged delete, sct x4 on 2nd tow tune, new radiator, new fan clutch, new water pump, and sinister delete kit. I got almost home to last stop sign and took off and noticed grey/white smoke.
Then drove so more for 20 minutes. Everything you come to complete stop and take off it does this. On start up it will puff a little puff then go away. Is this normal after a rebuild and go away after some miles have been put on engine. Or should I be worried. It runs awesome now and idles so smooth with tons of power on tow tune.
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Truck started running rough on way home the other day. First gave me P0404 code and would get black smoke along with whitish smoke coming from the tail pipe. I haven't been able to notice or track an amount of coolant loss yet.
Swapped EGR valve this morning and now noticed this once she kicked into high idle (still warming up). About to hook up the IDS, hoping I this is not head gasket .
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So,I am working on a 2003 F250 6.0 manual trans. all stock. 204,000 miles. I got it not running. Charged the batteries and pulled the 14 codes accumulated by the last people trying to work on it.There were cyl 1,2,5,6,7,8 contrib codes, P0403 and P0405 egr(the egr was unplugged when I got it), P0341 Cam pos., P0500 VSS, P0562 voltage low, P0683 glow plugs, P1378 fuel inj. ctrl., and a P1000. It is on it's second used car lot, no one can fix it and I don't know what they have done.
Cleared the codes, removed, cleaned, replaced the EGR, installed new batteries, and went over the wiring harnesses. I am down to the P1000, an occasional P0405, and random cyl 3, sometimes 2 contrib codes. If I warm it up and clear the codes, I don't get any contrib codes.
I hooked up the Scan Gauge and the ICP is 554-up cranking, starts without any long crank, runs at 644 at an idle, revs up and reads 2404 max. This is sitting in the garage.
The IPR was 14.8 to start off with, running mostly between 29.7 and 38. revving it up. The FMD is steady 48.0. I have run the buzz test both warm and cold- sounds good, no faults found. Have run the KOER and KOEO demand tests, no faults. There is no smoking. I have changed the fuel filters. I have not located an adapter to hook up my fuel pressure gauge.
As it is right now, it starts reasonably well (it's in the 20's here at night). It runs rough until the temp gauge gets to the top of the little thermometer symbol, then it runs better. The turbo sounds like it's operating as expected, nothing weird. Cold it has a rough idle and poor throttle response. Warm it idles well, with an intermittent light "shudder" .
The weirdest thing I find is the fuel pedal, when I rev it up warm, it won't come back to idle right away, takes 10-20 seconds. It also does this shifting. It does not rev up on it's own, and it will stick at any RPM. I did not find a value for TPS on my datastream on my scan tool (Auto Xray Tech scan 7000). When I let off the throttle the IPR and HPOP pressure drop. The truck was hardly driven for the last 7 years (6000 miles).
I have added some Archoil 9100, that smoothed out the warm operation even more, it drives perfectly down the road (300 miles the other day). I sent the FICM (the guys on the other forum insisted my problem sounds like the logic side of the FICM) to Ed, got it back, no change. I took a peek at the IPR, it is shiny and clean, the connector is tight and free of oil.
I removed and inspected the throttle pedal, it's seems clean and operational. It only has the cylinder contrib codes cold, and it is usually only one cylinder, that cylinder changes, first it was 8 a couple of times, then 3, then 2, now 7. Which injector could be bad and there is no smoke.
I guess the biggie here is to get the throttle to stop sticking. It runs better everyday, but the sticking could be dangerous. The rough running cold cold just be this engines normal. The light shudder at idle goes in 3-5 second increments- light shudder-smooth-light shudder-smooth...
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I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
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05 6.0 deleted and studded. 170k fresh filters and oil, no CEL or codes.
This has happened 3x in months, so it intermittent. Truck will start fine cold, except for this last episode ....
Truck starts right up, idles correctly, speed bumps up if its cold enough to trigger the high idle. About mid way through its warm up, at approx 130-140 idle falls off, barely runs. Almost knocking. Black smoke if you give it throttle. Has no power when its doing this. Truck will not move and almost dies in gear. Give it til 185ish degrees then pooof! All good.
However 2 days ago it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't catch. Stumbles and dies. Finally got it to start after setting the charger on it. I killed it. But this time when it started it was straight into its rough idle, no power...until about 180. I switched it off, restarted it and it was totally fine
Ficm is 47-47.5. Every now and then I see a 46.5 for a split sec
Hpop is 700-800cold cranking.
Not sure what else to look at.
Moto craft filters.
Amsoil 5w-40
Archoil in the fuel and oil
Twc3 at every fill up.
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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Wife just pulled in said your trucks running rough. Right out the gate went out Checked ICPV its at 0 KOEO... Noticed a CEL P2285...
ICPV seams to be Jumping all around at Idle...
it stutters and smooth's out some I believe its going into default mode...
its acting different then last time the ICP went south thinking a wire is shorted or that's my guess ...
is it just me or do Vehicles seem to break down more when its Cold...
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So I have been chain a no hot start issue. Found a bad top o ring seal for injector #2 replaced the o ring put it all back together did an air test seemed good not 100% sure I don't have another leak. Still problem starting. But I am now running rough and I have a pending p0264. What's up?
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I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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#2 contribution/glow plug/injector code ????? Harness looks good. What's the malfunction?? Runs rough. Never seen those 3 codes together.
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I didn't notice anything until I was towing yesterday and tried to pass a car to get onto the offramp.
Anyway, I went to floor it so I could get around and, in my mirror, I could see a decent bit of grey smoke coming out. What could it be?
It doesn't smoke at all on startup and runs smooth right away.
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I have replaced the camshaft pos sensor multiple times from Autozone (warranty ) and replaced with one from Advance Auto still get cam sensor code changed crankshaft sensor today still running like crap, stuttering. I have also done a complete tune up and the Distributor has not been pulled.
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I replaced the rings on all 8 injectors put in 8 new glow plugs and a relay. My truck is still putting out grey/ white smoke at start up. It goes away after about a minutes. Truck runs a little rough a first then smooths out. I know some smoke after doing a job like this is to be expected but I was thinking I t would go away by now. I've been running through my head what I might of done wrong but I can't think of anything.
Does it just need all new injectors and not just rings ?
2001 f250 7.3
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I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
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I have a 7.3 that's running rough. Started it the other day it ran alright but started blowing white smoke. Bought a oil and fuel additive i was going to run through it. Came a few days later, it stated up and was real loud and sounding like it was loping. It blew a good amount of white smoke, but it just smelt like real heavy diesel. Now i can only turn it over and it won't start.
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7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
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06' with 85,000 on it started smoking yesterday. When idling , and stopping at red light, and then sometimes it doesn't. Run it this afternoon for about 10 miles, let it warm up. Ran good and smooth didn't smoke when cranked then at the red light it started to put out a little white smoke. Drove back home, pulled egr valve and it did have a little wet on it, the coolant level has dropped some to. I scanned it and it didn't have any codes, no misfires or anything! Is it safe to say that the egr cooler has a small crack in it and its just starting to leak?
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Where can I send pcm off to have checked out.
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