Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rough Running Like Missing When Cold / Puffs Of Blue Smoke From Tail Pipe
Aug 10, 2016
My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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Truck started running rough on way home the other day. First gave me P0404 code and would get black smoke along with whitish smoke coming from the tail pipe. I haven't been able to notice or track an amount of coolant loss yet.
Swapped EGR valve this morning and now noticed this once she kicked into high idle (still warming up). About to hook up the IDS, hoping I this is not head gasket .
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I have a mysterious exhaust issue on my 1991 Montero. After the engine warms up and I have been stopped at a red light for a minute or so when I accelerate away from the light a cloud of blue (I assume oil) smoke puffs out of the exhaust pipe. If I sit in the vehicle with it idling for, say, 5 minutes then the cloud of blue smoke can last all the way down the block. Then it goes away. Spark plugs are all clean. PCV valve recently replaced. Mo warning lights. What can this be?
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After running perfectly fine all day my truck will seem to bog down and when I press the accelerator the reaction is extremely delayed and tons of black smoke will come out of the tail pipe before the truck actually gains power and takes off. The check engine light has been coming on but will turn itself off after the truck has been shutdown a few times....
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Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.
Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.
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So,I am working on a 2003 F250 6.0 manual trans. all stock. 204,000 miles. I got it not running. Charged the batteries and pulled the 14 codes accumulated by the last people trying to work on it.There were cyl 1,2,5,6,7,8 contrib codes, P0403 and P0405 egr(the egr was unplugged when I got it), P0341 Cam pos., P0500 VSS, P0562 voltage low, P0683 glow plugs, P1378 fuel inj. ctrl., and a P1000. It is on it's second used car lot, no one can fix it and I don't know what they have done.
Cleared the codes, removed, cleaned, replaced the EGR, installed new batteries, and went over the wiring harnesses. I am down to the P1000, an occasional P0405, and random cyl 3, sometimes 2 contrib codes. If I warm it up and clear the codes, I don't get any contrib codes.
I hooked up the Scan Gauge and the ICP is 554-up cranking, starts without any long crank, runs at 644 at an idle, revs up and reads 2404 max. This is sitting in the garage.
The IPR was 14.8 to start off with, running mostly between 29.7 and 38. revving it up. The FMD is steady 48.0. I have run the buzz test both warm and cold- sounds good, no faults found. Have run the KOER and KOEO demand tests, no faults. There is no smoking. I have changed the fuel filters. I have not located an adapter to hook up my fuel pressure gauge.
As it is right now, it starts reasonably well (it's in the 20's here at night). It runs rough until the temp gauge gets to the top of the little thermometer symbol, then it runs better. The turbo sounds like it's operating as expected, nothing weird. Cold it has a rough idle and poor throttle response. Warm it idles well, with an intermittent light "shudder" .
The weirdest thing I find is the fuel pedal, when I rev it up warm, it won't come back to idle right away, takes 10-20 seconds. It also does this shifting. It does not rev up on it's own, and it will stick at any RPM. I did not find a value for TPS on my datastream on my scan tool (Auto Xray Tech scan 7000). When I let off the throttle the IPR and HPOP pressure drop. The truck was hardly driven for the last 7 years (6000 miles).
I have added some Archoil 9100, that smoothed out the warm operation even more, it drives perfectly down the road (300 miles the other day). I sent the FICM (the guys on the other forum insisted my problem sounds like the logic side of the FICM) to Ed, got it back, no change. I took a peek at the IPR, it is shiny and clean, the connector is tight and free of oil.
I removed and inspected the throttle pedal, it's seems clean and operational. It only has the cylinder contrib codes cold, and it is usually only one cylinder, that cylinder changes, first it was 8 a couple of times, then 3, then 2, now 7. Which injector could be bad and there is no smoke.
I guess the biggie here is to get the throttle to stop sticking. It runs better everyday, but the sticking could be dangerous. The rough running cold cold just be this engines normal. The light shudder at idle goes in 3-5 second increments- light shudder-smooth-light shudder-smooth...
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I try to turn on my truck today and it will not crank. The day before I had change two injectors and I turned on the truck when two fill up my tank and I put a full bottle of injector cleaner with it. When I drove off, a few blocks down the truck turn off on me. I started to turn on the truck and every time I did it would blow heavy white smoke out the tail pipe and then it would shut off. I did this about 10 times until I decide to call a tow truck. The next day I empty out the fuel tank and fill it with diesel only. I tried to turn on the truck and it would not crank. I ended putting two new batteries and still the same result. What can this be ? 2007 6.0 Diesel ...
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After tooling around town and a complete warm up cycle for the engine I encountered a problem. The situation is this.... Had to go around a slow poke....waited until traffic had cleared and nailed it. My truck belched out a boat-load of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Could not duplicate this on the return trip to the stealer (Dealer). Needles to say, I am worried about the health of the engine....(no codes popped, or anything else as I had a code reader hooked up) My truck did the blue cloud again with a rev up in park after a cool down but wouldn't do it again, but there was a strong smell of unburned fuel at the tail pipe.
4.6L, 2WD, Sport Package....
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05, 170k miles. Studded and egr delete but I don't have paperwork on either. Got a pretty good deal on the truck but I have a few questions..
It runs and starts great, warm and cold, with only a little blue smoke on cold startup. but every now and then when idling (say at a stoplight) the engine gets noticeably rougher, not terrible. No smoke. Goes away after 5-10 seconds.
When I remove the oil cap, there is a "puffing" blow by, not constant, and its not enough to blow the cap off if I set it on backwards. Just puffing.
This may be related, but I pulled the starter wire off the drivers side and touched it to the battery to hear how it cranks, and there is a noticeable blip in the cranking, its not 100% smooth.
Don't think I am losing any coolant. Runs great, getting 15MPG. No CEL. I went and had a relative comp. check done, cylinder 7 is the problem. We both are leaning toward there being a valve problem So I pulled the valve cover, now I have a few questions.
1. When I crank the engine over without starting, I can hear a "pfft....pfft....pfft" chug of air every revolution. I pulled the cover to see if I had a obvious rocker problem, but can't see anything because the oil rail is in the way. I'm guessing this air puff is sign of a valve problem?
2. When the truck is running, there is a small, steady stream of oil running down the rail and dripping onto the valve cover mating surface of the head, I think it was at every injector, definitely 2 of them. Was getting dark, so hard to see. Is this normal, or do I have a leak? Truck has updated dummy plugs.
My next step is probably going to be pull the rail, see if there is a obvious problem, then pull the head. And tips for me? Planning on having the HVAC evacuated then pulling the airbox.
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2004 f250 6.0, 173k miles. I just had the head studs done and a new head due to a crack in one head, I got it back 3 days ago and she was running great. I towed my landscape trailer yesterday full of mulch and only went about 5 miles with the load, after the job driving to another one I noticed it sounded like it was missing at idle with a small amount of white smoke. Drove it home let it sit overnight, started it up this morning and a cloud of white/ blue smoke and a horrible rough idle. Smoke does not stop.
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I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
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2004 f350 4x4 sc dually 130K mi. Cranked truck this morning @ 18*F. Truck not plugged in but regular quick smooth startup. Noticed light blue smoke with normal condensation exhaust for about 5 seconds, then normal condensation exhaust for about 30 seconds. Drove truck at normal operating temps with 5* deltas. To my knowledge, truck has original turbo (Garrett), never been removed or cleaned by me. VGT at startup 70-72, running after warmup mid 50's. Is this a symptom of needing to replace turbo seal, and thorough cleaning while off?
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My truck is an 03 and I changed number 5 injector and number 4 injector, checked my ficm everything is good there now I have a contribution balance code for injector 4 now injector 5 and an EGR code some guys on hear before said it could be a sensor but today I talked to my mail man who also owns a 6.0 and he sounds pretty knowledgeable he says it's possible that it could be that the computer is not reading out right and those cylinders are getting to much fuel for an instant that's what's causing the sudden puffs of black smoke. My torque pro is giving me all these codes and I'm starting to think that there is something underlying....
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So about a week and a half ago I went to crank my 03 6.0 truck up after having driven it to the mountains (about a 5hour round trip) several days ago. It was a little slower than usual but nothing too alarming, got to work and worked a full day, came back to my truck and it took even longer to crank. Drove to my girlfriends house to pick her up, only had it shut off for like 2 minutes hot and when I went to crank it it took two tries. From then on it was only bad at cranking when hot but now it takes 5-8 tries to crank whether it's hot or cold.
I took it to my buddy who owns a diesel mechanic shop and we hooked it up to his computer, everything checked out just fine, oil pressure was good, so was all injectors and ficm voltage, no red flags at all. So I went ahead and changed the icp, nothing, then he told me to change my aftermarket oil filter to motorcraft oil filter, still nothing, I also changed my oil filter drain valve and nothing.
When I'm attempting to crank the truck, after I hold the key attempting to crank it for maybe 8 seconds my oil pressure gauge jumps to normal. I have an ipr on the way to my house and I'm gonna try that as well. Also when the truck gets running it runs just as it ever has, no weird sputtering or stalling or cutting off. But when it does finally crank it puffs out a little black smoke.
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I have a 1997 Nissan pickup with 269000 mile on it when you first crank it up after sitting all night a puff of blue or white or gray smoke come out of the tail pipe.
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Title says it all... Starts & idles pretty good. No codes. Has decent power on mild acceleration, any time you step on it more than 1500rpm it lets out little black puffs of smoke and intake makes that popping sound and truck jerks a little...EGR delete. HPO pressure is good. Injectors are fresh as of a year ago. Valves? Lifters? Turbo?
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I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
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My RX350 has less than 18K miles and it has signs of bad valve seals. If I start the vehicle after it sits for a while, a large puff of blue smoke emits from the tail pipe. My 02 Dodge with 188K miles doesn't even do this.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
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I just came back from a 200 mile trip and parked my truck. Next day, got in the truck and turned the key.... it turned over and white smoke coming out the tail pipe. After doing some research(you tube),I ruled out cps sensor because it was showing low rpms on tach. Replaced glow plug relay and still have same issue.. what else to look at that I can do without getting it towed. Hunting season coming soon and I need the beast.
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