Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Power Seat Continues To Move All The Way Forward After Car Starts Up
Nov 14, 2014
My 2010 Rx has just recently been doing funny things, and when I mention it to non lexus owners i get the stink eye, as in you're really complaining about that?
So I turn to you, I think you all are familiar with when you press on the break and hit the start button the power seat rolls you into memory 1 (I am the sole driver) well i have noticed that when I do this, my seat moves up about an inch and then pauses while the car literally starts up it then continues to move the chair all the way forward.
Also when i go to lock my car from my keys the chirping confirmation isn't as loud as it once was. its raspy somehow? I was sure if these two things have any correlation but I noticed these two issues together.
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Just a few days back, the front passenger seat of my 2010 Legacy ceased to move forward and backward. So no one can feasibly sit in the front when I'm driving unless under 5' tall. The lumbar and seat back motors seem to be working just fine, so just the back and forward function/motor is dead. I initially thought something was stuck in the tracks that hold the seat in, but checked all of that out and nada. The motor makes no sound or vibration. I'm also surprised the seat mechanism seems to be broken in a 4-yr-old car with low mileage.
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My wife's power drivers seat will only move forward not back. Fuses all look good and the passenger seat operates fine. If this continues and she hits the button again she will need to be shorter than the 5' she is already. No chance at this point I can fit in the car.
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Bought this truck (06 F250 cclb diesel) earlier this year and (as far as the seat is concerned) worked perfectly until about 2 weeks or so ago, when I learned that the passenger power seat works in every direction except for to move the seat back. Since every one that got in the truck didn't believe me and now the seat is almost at the glove box I finally decided I should do something about it. I have removed the fuse and let is sit with the the fuse out for about an hour, no change. I had read on another fourm that if you recline the seat back a few times it resets the module, attempted with no change. It is to the point I need to get into a bit more serious diagnostic processes however I am unsure exactly where to start.
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Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
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My drivers seat wont disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Any shot from the manual before I take it apart?
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My drivers seat won't disengage from the track on the right side rail next to the console.
Looking for a shot from the manual before I take it apart?
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2008 Sonata 4Cyl
My Driver Seat Does not move Forward any more. It will go back, up & Down Just not Forward.
Is there a Seat Reset Switch somewhere I don't know about ? How do I troubleshoot this?
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I have an RX 330 with about 154K on it. I have noticed recently that (from a stop) when I press the gas there is a slight hesitation before the car lurches forward and continues down the road. Also, in general the car doesn't seem to have the get and go it once had. What I should look into to determine what might be causing this problem?
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'13 model. I checked the vehicle customization to have the setting on but I noticed that the driver seat has stop moving assisting easy exit feature. The steering wheel is tilting however. Should I check with the dealer?
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I have a 2005 F250 King Ranch 4X4 Diesel and now experiencing an issue with the front seat belts
The problem is while being worn sometimes they will not let you lean forward- they act like you have a foot on the brake pedal and are locked-you have to lean back and forth several times to get them to let out if reaching for something on the dash etc..
I have searched the forum and found many issues where the seat belts stopped retracting- but my issue seems to be unique in that the seat belt will at times 'Not Let Out" when you lean forward.
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I bought my wife a 2010 Explorer a couple years ago, nice car but when it gets to 0 or -0 it wont move. After idling for an hour and some persuasion with the throttle it will lunge forward and then there is no issue until it is shut off and cooled down again. I'm wondering if there could be water in the tranny and its freezing but there is no way to check it.
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Can the head rests in a 2013 ES be moved forward or back, not just up or down? I thought I read somewhere they could, but for the life of me I can only get mine to go up and down ....
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After washing my 08 GX and putting in the garage to wax dry I have found that the next time I get in it to drive-often a day or so later,the car will not move in reverse ( or forward) without me revving it up quite high to overcome the locked up pads on the rotors. Sometimes its even screeches the tires to get in unlocked. I just washed it and letting it sit outside for a bit to see if the sun will dry out the rotors/pads and that would work.
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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I have a 2001 infiniti i30 automatic with about 118000 miles. The car runs and drives fine but every now and then while i am driving it and i push on gas the RPM will go up but the car will not move forward. I noticed that this usually happens when I drive the car a lot. If i turn it off and on it drives normal again. I have had 3 mechanics try to troubleshoot it one recommended to change the MAF which I did and the car ran fine for about 6 months and is starting to do it again. Service engine soon light is on again. What exactly is the issue that's causing it.
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My 97 toyota 4-runner has now had three times with a loss of power making me unable to drive the car. The first time behaved differently than the last two times. Currently, I can't drive the car.
The first time, I had just filled up the gas tank (while the station underground tank was being filled). About 10-15 minutes later while on the interstate, I had a sudden loss of power and the vehicle eventually would not move forward at all. The idle was fine. I had it towed to my mechanic thinking I had gotten a back tank of gas. I believe the check engine light was on... he determined that it was a bad mass air flow sensor and replaced that. He said the filling of the tank was co-incidental.
Months later (Jan. 2015), during our first cold spell, I had driven the car, parked it overnight in temperatures of 9 degrees. The next morning it didn't want to start. I finally got it to idle to warm up in neutral, but then when I would give it gas to move it, it would stall. I finally got it to stay on and to move with barely enough power to drive it the mile to the mechanics. On the way it started "back-firing" under the hood and smelling progressively hotter although the engine heat light was normal. By the time I got it to the mechanic going about 5-10 mph, I thought it was going to catch fire, it smelled so bad. Check engine light never came on. The car sat there unmoved for two weeks while I was out of town. After the two weeks, the mechanic finally checked out the car (outside temp was now up in the 30's & 40's) he got it to start and drive, but it was "running rough". He cleaned up the connections on the coil, which had some corrosion and gave me back the car -- no charge.
It ran fine until yesterday, when the same scenario played out. Another cold snap (-4 degrees). Drove the car across town to do errands and fill the gas tank. parked it overnight. The next morning I couldn't get to start initially. Finally got it to idle. Warmed it up for 30 minutes but it would not stay running if I took it out of neutral and gave it any gas. Check engine light did not come on. This time the car is 30 miles away from my mechanic and I don't want to have it towed if I don't have to....
My mechanic thinks it's either a fuel or oxygen issue. He told me to have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tanks while I try to start it to see if that effects anything.
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I got in to the 92 Lincoln, shifted into drive, and noticed transmission slippage. I checked the transmission fluid. The fluid did not smell burned but was under the add a pint line. I added fluid to the full line. The car is worse. As you shift into drive, then you have to race the engine to get the car to move forward. The car will go up the block but not with any speed. It seems as if it is not developing enough power to get the car to move forward. If I throw the car in reverse, it drives normal. Is it time to sell the car to the demolition derby?
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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The light came on a few days ago, so I checked tires and made sure they were all at the correct PSI. But the tire pressure warning light continues to stay on. I've read other threads about a reset switch in the first generation GX, so is there that same switch in the second generation GX? And if so, where is it? Can't find anything in the manual about it.
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