Oldsmobile - Intrigue :: Transmission - Vehicle Won't Move When Cold / P0742 Code
Mar 21, 2014
2000 Intrigue 144,000 miles.
When you first start it up, the vehicle won't move in any gear. After a while of idling, it may start to drive, but the engine RPMs are way too high for the corresponding speed that you're driving. 4000 RPMs to hold 45 MPH.
Could this be the input piston? I've heard those wear and then don't seal well, bleeding off fluid pressure. Torque converter?
Also, the one diagnostic code is P0742 - TCC stuck on. I realize that this could be unrelated to the vehicle not moving when cold.
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I have a 2014 Sonata GLS. This has happened 3 times so far. I often drive around looking at houses for sale etc. Sometimes I drive for 1 to 2 hours, usually low speeds under 20 to 30 mph.
So I come to a stop, start to accelerate and notice my transmission is having trouble engaging, I liken it to transmission slip, like winding up to get the vehicle to move. I also notice my dash gear indicator light is blank. No "D" in the display box, just empty. I stop at a safe spot, put the vehicle in park.
It will not release from park when I try to shift into gear again. I decided turn the vehicle off, re-start the car, and all is well, tranny works, dash indicator is back and all is good.
I drive the vehicle mostly at highway speeds to/from work with no issues. Each time this has happened its after driving at that low speed for at least an hour and a half or more. I haven't taken it to dealer yet.
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About 11 months ago I had hard shifting with the 2000 Intrigue.. Local Tranny shop diagnosed P1811 and replaced the pressure control solonoid. Then about 10,000 miles later problem occurred again. Transmission shop said they would either redo the solenoid or rebuild the transmission. I asked for a new solenoid.
Now today I'm having P1811 again. Clear it for a week and it comes back. Transmission is going into high pressure mode making driving very harsh.
PCS Solenoid shows operation at 60% duty cycle with approximately 1 volt signal. Shifting times are about 0.4-0.5 whenever I have a scan tool on it. What is reasonable shift times for the 4T65E?
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how hard is it to install a bcm in a 01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, and what all will it take care of in a car? I know its a sm computer that does alot of operations for a car,but would that cover everything with the security light on??
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168k and going strong..kinda. At @35mph it shutters then seems to go into gear. At @ 45mph it revs and the techomter goes above 2k rpms and it feels like I'm using the brake pedal, but I am not. Simple fix(not alot$$) or major? PS, I've changed trans fluid but no luck. If I stay below 45, no problem. Seems 3+4th gear have me stumped?
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I have an 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue. I started having a problem about a year back where when I first start the engine, if there is 1/4 tank or less left in the gas tank, the gauge will at first show the proper level. However, after driving for a few minutes the gauge will creep up to anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 fill. I know that the original reading of 1/4 or less is the correct one because of the amount of gas needed to fill the tank. This problem is especially problematic when the tank is almost empty.
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My 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue (Automatic) has 142,000 miles on it. Our car has been hesitating when I drive on occasion. It does it randomly, it was once or twice a month, now it's about 3 or 4 times a week. I can be either trying to accelerate from a stop or already going 50 and trying to speed up to 65 or something and it won't go. The RPM gauge will fly up to 3500 and my MPH gauge will not move.
When it does this the "Check Engine Soon" light flashes, but as soon as the episode is over, shuts off. It does it anytime of day, whether it's the first time started for the day, or been running for hours. In recent months we've replaced the battery, the starter, the timing belt, recently the fuel pump as well as a few O rings. We are tired of fixing this car and not having this problem taken care of. Our mechanic can't seem to find anything else wrong.
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I recently had my power window motor replaced, and my A/C charged, after that my cruise control started going off by its self, when I turned on the turn signal or opened the window, it only happens when the body is warm, not the engine. I had someone say, some of these vehicles have been found to have been built with a pinched wire (or wire harness) where the sunshade pivot arms go through, but I have had this car almost 2 years and it never did this till this work was done on it. What can I check for? It's a 2001 Olds Intrique.
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99 Intrigue 3.5 with 200,000 miles has severe front end vibration on initial aggresive start from a stop. Worse when wheels are turned. Doesn't matter if turned to right or left. Drives fine on highway, no problem for straight line or easy acceleration from stop. CV joints original, boots good, car has been trouble free.....
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I bought a used 89' Ford e150. Automatic transmission, 194k mi. I fixed it up a bit and it is very much drivable. I just took it up to northern az and then back down. I had to have it towed recently and now my transmission is acting up. When I want to move it i put it into gear, either reverse or drive, now while accelerating slowly the vehicle doesn't move for several seconds until the transmission catches and it then starts to move. It does this now while driving and having to stop for lights and signs. It has a delay until the transmission catches. I wonder if the vehicle is dragged up on to a flatbed tow truck this can damage my transmission or driveshaft And cause this. What can I do to fix it
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My car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
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Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
[URL] ......
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I have a 1999 Chevy Venture van with a 3.4l v6 in it, and am having a strange what seems to be either an electrical or transmission problem which I can explain pretty easily.
95% of the time after the van has been driven for 30 minutes and warmed up, I notice a strange chugging when it shifts from 1st to 2nd. The chugging gets less noticeable when it shifts into the higher gears. 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc...
This is the strange part. If you put the vehicle in park and shut it off, and then restart it after it sits for 10 seconds or so the chugging is gone. It shifts beautifully. Could this be a problem with the computer or is it some kind of sensor resetting??
The computer is giving me a P0742 code. Which is "Torque Concerter Clutch Solenoid - Circuit Stuck on". I also have a code for the Mass Air Flow Sensor and Catalyst Efficiency which I think is related to other things.
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My 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue keeps overheating when driving over the mountainous area outside of town. It usually occurs when coming back from drill (4 hour drive). The mountainous region is around the 3.5 hour mark. All the fluids are normal. Coolant is within the preferred region and oil is the same. But every time I climb the mountain it reaches to the overheat mark and I have to kick on the heater to save the engine. Is there another reason behind why it over heats?
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I have a 2002 Olds Intrigue. It has two problems ...
(1) When I'm driving down the road, the dashboard lights / headlights will dim & then brighten; dim & then brighten. I feel just a little bit of lag in the gas peddle, but it has never stalled on me. It has had two new alternators installed since I've had it, along with the battery replaced a couple of times.
(2) In March, I got stuck in a snowbank. The car has a feature called "Traction Control". Ever since I managed to get myself "unstuck", my dummy lights on the dashboard go crazy -- Trac Off / Anti-Lock Brakes / Service Vehicle lights all come on and stay on. And, the car will make funky noises when I creep to a stop OR try to take off from a stop ... feels like the traction control is trying to work because of the noise (usually what it sounds like if I hit a patch of ice in the winter, but there's no ice this time) ... and the brake / gas peddle vibrate ... sometimes I have to stomp on the brake in order to make the car stop. My mechanic has tested the car / checked it for error codes / had replaced the brakes prior to the problem ... nothing shows signs of wear or fault.
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So I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with about 190k miles. It currently has an overheating problem but first I'll discuss some history:
-It had a previous overheating problem a few months ago that was accompanied by bubbling sounds. We diagnosed this as boiling coolant because the system was not pressurizing due to a leak in the reservoir. We fixed the reservoir leak and pressure tested it to find that the leak was repaired. The bubbling noises stopped and the car no longer overheated.
-The car was then underheating nearly all the time. We diagnosed this as a broken thermostat, probably killed by the overheating that was caused by the leak in the reservoir. We replaced the thermostat and bled/burped the system and now the car does not underheat.
Now the car operates around the half-temp mark and stays very regular except in traffic or parked in the driveway. So it overheats when it is idling. You can rev up the engine in these cases and see the temp gauge fall back down, so it is dependent on RPM only and not on the actual traveling speed of the car. Also at this time the car supplies nice heat to the cabin.
Things to exclude:The electric fans seem to be working fine and they switch on and off supplying a good deal of wind.The system was bled/burped.The system has a new thermostat.The system does not leak based on a pressure test.The system has enough coolant.The system supplies good heat to the cabin.
My guess is that there is a clog/general grossness inside the system someplace or that the water pump is starting to fail?
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My wife's 1998 oldsmobile intrigue. i have replaced the starter with a rebuild from advance auto parts, had the alternator rebuilt and installed a new battery. the car runs until the battery dies and then it will shut down while driving. it can be jumped and started but will die again when the battery drains.
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I recently bought an '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue, I do not know much of anything more than how to check fluids and were to put them when low, So here's the issues that I have come across.
Roughish idle. when stopped and in drive it has a rough idle but not bad yet.
Driver Side windows do not go up or down. The driver window is stuck with a 1/4 inch gap I keep weather proof tape over it. the back window slides up and down but not with the button also held up by tape. I can hear the motor running when I press the button but no luck.
A/C motor works but no air blows out of the vents.
Driver side back up lights don't work and Driver side front blinker or parking light does not work.
Security light recently come on and can't get it to go off whenever the car is started and it is a steady light no flash or blink.
I already know there is a small leak in the radiator and even with the issues it has I love the lil car and want to fix it up to proper working order. So, what I can possibly do?
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My '99 Olds Intrigue was running rough & short on power. Autozone read a trouble code "random misfiring" (PM3000 I think it was). As suggested, I changed the plugs/wires and checked resistance on all three coils with no luck. Here's the real spooky thing: while driving down the street a couple days ago, the pipe between the catalytic converter & muffler separated, scaring me and sending all the children getting off the school bus scrambling for cover. There was no noise or odor prior to the 'drop out' - is there any chance that the one problems (a catalytic malfunction, or small leak in the area for instance) could be related to the misfiring? A mechanic - before the pipe plummeted - had suggested it might be an injector problem or the intake manifold but I figured that an injector problem would trigger a code.
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
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