Ford Transmission :: 1994 Ranger 5 Speed - Engine Bogs Down Like It Is In 5th Gear
Dec 5, 2012
This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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If I hop in my truck right now (1994 3.0 ford ranger 5 speed) as soon as i accelerate half pedal or more it'll bog down really bad. Usually in second gear it does it the most and ill shift to third gear and it still jerks and has trouble accelerating. If I let the car sit for 10 minutes and then go drive it it'll jerk and bog down a little bit but no where near as much. usually only does it for the first couple minutes of driving then goes back to normal. I also noticed that my temperature gauge is always right before NORMAL. Also I'll have to give it a little more gas right before i go to drive or it'll want to stall but as soon as i get into driving it, it acts perfectly fine.
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This happen to me last year when it got cold out it goes in all the gears and when I let off the clutch it makes a grinding noise and won't move at all so I left it sit for the rest off the winter and when all the snow was gone I started it up put it in gear, let off the clutch and it started moving. I drove it all summer and now the cold weather is back it doing it again, what it might be.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with the 4.6 Motor approx 150000miles. Transmission went out so I decided to try and replace it...
New/rebuilt tranny went in with no problem but something is not right. It will drive but seems like it is stuck in high gear and bogs the motor down. It is giving me error codes P1747, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0102. All the wiring harness is in good shape with no burns or other noticeable problems. Somehow the transmission isn't reading right?
When I bought this rebuilt transmission I was told it was set up for 2wd but he would convert it for 4wd. The only difference i noticed with the new tranny is the shaft coming out of the tranny, where the safety neutral switch is, has a diamond shape instead of the oval shape that connects the shifter cable. No big deal i think, just had to buy a new link for the shifter cable with the diamond.
Also on the passenger side of the tranny there is a nine pin plug. My wire harness from the truck has one pin hole that is opposite of the tranny. Not sure why. Do I need a new harness or wrong tranny?
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2015 F-250 Super Duty, 6.2 L Gas with 6r140 Transmission. I have 13 K miles on my truck. While pulling my travel trailer up a hill the transmission kicks down thru the gears, which is fine, but as I crest the hill and in 2nd gear, the engine begins to rev up and the speed increases, the transmission will not automatically go into3rd gear. I have tried to let up on the gas pedal, but it remains stuck in 2nd gear. I have to shift to "Manual" and then put it in 3rd gear. Then it shifts up as it should. I have tried with the transmission in "TOW' and not in "TOW". I have even tried it in "Cruise Control".
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So last weekend I installed a transgo kit for my 4R100 transmission in my 2000 F250 diesel. I didn't really care about getting a shift kit, but I had problems with delayed shifts and figured the accumulator springs had broken. It turns out that was correct, the 2nd gear spring came out in 8 pieces.
Anyway, the transmission shifts great now, but when I put it in reverse it the engine jumps up 200 rpm and then it bogs down as it engages reverse forcefully. It also does this while selecting 1st from Park.
From what I'm reading it's the TC not unlocking and/or a fluid pressure/volume issue. I've also read the filter might have fallen off, I had a hell of a time keeping it in place. I've checked the the fluid level and everything is good there. My question is when I drop the pan, aside from the filter, what should I look for?
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When I am driving at a higher speed and I need to pass someone or accelerate, the engine bogs down. I push the peddle to the floor and nothing. This does not happen all the time but it happens. But when I accelerate from a light or lower speeds there does not seem to be an issue. I recently had the value gaskets replaced because of a small oil leak and it seems this problem began after then. I have taken it back to the shop but the problem does not duplicate itself when they test drive it.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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My 1994 Ranger keeps shifting in and out of overdrive. It will go into OD easily, but it keeps downshifting, then shifting back up constantly. If I go up hill, if will downshift and stay in drive, but on a flat stretch, it wont stay in OD. It works fine when its cold, but after it warms up, then the shift problem begins. What do I do?
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Im wanting to get more power out of my 94 auto supercab but I don't wanna kill mpg it has 3.08 gears I was thinking swap to 3.55 to keep mpg would there be noticeable power difference?
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My transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
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I have a Check engine light on. I was driving up to go skiing and i was going up a hill, so i downshifted to 4th and the engine bogs down and the check engine light comes on, and it wont let me accelerate beyond 3000 RPM. I pull off at the next exit and turn the car off and go skiing(I was already there, I drove all the way and I figured I might as well ski). I come back after a few hours and head home, Im taking it easey but i notice that it seems to drive normal now, but the CEL is still on. What the problem could be? I have already had both turbos replaced and the last month the ecu was reprogrammed for throwing up faulty codes. But this time there may be something wrong with the engine.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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I bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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When I first got my Accent a few weeks a go I thought this car just had unique braking functions with the ABS valve, but after driving it every day for a few weeks I think that perhaps the problem is the way the car downshifts.
Whenever I am braking and the car downshifts to 2nd gear at around 25MPH I feel the engine bog down, almost as if you were downshifting at too high of an RPM. However it only happens if I am braking slowly, when I need to brake harder I don't seem to notice it, either because it doesn't do it or because I can't feel it over the more pronounced forward momentum.
I verified that it does seem to be the engine or transmission, because if I brake with the car in neutral it won't do it. So my question would be is this just a normal function of this car, or should I take it in to be checked out?
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I have a 1994 celica GT, 2.2 with a 5 speed. I thought I either had bad tire noise, or maybe a wheel bearing noise, I put the car up on jack stands, started the car and put it in gear, and the noise I have is a loud growling sound, which gets worse the faster the wheel spins. I took a 2x4 and stopped the passenger side tire (drive wheel) so the driver's side would spin, the noise went away. From what I can tell, or am guessing, the noise is coming from the trans. Could this be a bearing in the trans case? Of course I can't find an exploded view of the trans!
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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I've been noticing that my 1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L, 4 banger has a slight knocking sound. It is really faint compared to any other rod knock I have heard. An engine compression test shows mid 140's on all cylinders except one of them which is at 125. I'm guessing it isn't receiving enough oil. Can I prevent catastrophe by fixing this early on before a rebuild or replacement has to happen?
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My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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