Celica :: 1994 GT 2.2 With 5 Speed - Noisy Transmission?
Jun 9, 2013
I have a 1994 celica GT, 2.2 with a 5 speed. I thought I either had bad tire noise, or maybe a wheel bearing noise, I put the car up on jack stands, started the car and put it in gear, and the noise I have is a loud growling sound, which gets worse the faster the wheel spins. I took a 2x4 and stopped the passenger side tire (drive wheel) so the driver's side would spin, the noise went away. From what I can tell, or am guessing, the noise is coming from the trans. Could this be a bearing in the trans case? Of course I can't find an exploded view of the trans!
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My 94 gt doesn't have the idle speed adjustment screw like the manual says it should so how does one adjust the idle speed?
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1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
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Well, Car is in the shop to get the trans looked at. Loud whining noise in 1, 2, 3. corresponds with engine speed, not road speed. I think input shaft bearings are shot. Going to get a new clutch and throwout bearing while it's out. 116K miles.
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This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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Really noisy rear with leaking axle seals. Looking to swap in a "yard" unit. Mine has 10" shoes. The door sticker says it's a code 86 rear. If I look for a ranger with a code 86, will everything be the same?
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94 celica GT 2.2 federal automatic, doesn't want to run, coughing, stalling, rpm gauge jumps eratically up down.
Computer says one code only, #12. Regarding Haynes manual it's distributor circuit or Igniter. When engine stops rotating (ignition still on), many times there is noise from distributor cap, like zzzzz....
System keeps shooting spark between distributor cap and rotor and there will be spark on that same spark plug !!!!!!
What's wrong? Distributor or Ignitor ??
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My son has a 1994 Celica GT with the 2.2 5S-FE engine. Recently told me his heat didn't work very well, he had mentioned it last year but due to extreme cold we've been having I decided I would look at it for him. So anyway, I started by pulling the thermostat thinking it was probably stuck open or possibly someone had removed it completely, well there was one in there and it was closed so I tested it in boiling water, worked fine, replaced it anyway.
So then I checked behind and under the dash, thinking maybe something was opening or closing completely, but they are connected and operating, when I move the controls inside I can hear the doors moving and closing and all the linkages under the dash are connected and operating. Still no heat, so I figured the heater core was clogged since the return hose didn't seem to be getting hot, or the heater control valve was bad, pulled the heater core hoses, checked the heater control valve, control valve worked fine and was not plugged. Flushed the heater core, nice clean antifreeze, I then checked it with air, manual said put 6 psi on the input and make sure it was coming out of the return, which it was.
Reconnected everything, bled the air, still nothing, took the hoses off and connected the return hose to the heater control valve, bypassing the heater core, both hoses got hot. Sure seemed like a clogged heater core, did the air test again with 2 psi, still made its way out the return side. Reconnected everything again, still same issue, return hose never got hot. So while it was running hot with thermostat open, I removed the return hose, nothing coming out of the core, then I revved the engine and it started coming out, reconnected it and ran car at 3000 RPM, finally a little heat out of the vent, about 115 degrees by thermometer placed in vent, as soon as I let it idle the temp fell back to 80 within a minute or so.
Now I figured the water pump impeller was worn/corroded or was slipping on the shaft, so I pulled the whole thing apart. ( I should mention that the entire cooling system is very clean I don't see any corrosion anywhere) Any of you that have done this knows what a pain in the butt the whole job is, anyway, when I got it apart I was surprised to see that the impeller looked like new and was definitely NOT slipping on the shaft... what the heck???
When I took the pump off the housing I noticed the housing had a lot of wear, it look as if the previous owner let the water pump fail to the point that the bearing wore enough that the impeller ground down the raised boss inside the housing, I though AH-HA, this has got to be the problem, water is not actually pumping/circulating inside the pump as efficiently as it should, hence the reason I only get coolant into the heater core at high RPM. So i replaced the housing, the water pump, and while I was in there I did all the oil seals, and the timing belt. Well I got it all back together, fired it up added coolant, let the engine come up to temp, bled air, still NO HEAT!
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Ok so i bought a 1994 celica GT from a police auction the other week and it wouldn't start so we went ahead and put a new fuel pump in it then we put new spark plugs in it. When removing the spark plugs i saw there was oil on them. My friend suggest we do a motor swap cause he thinks its a blown head gasket. Could this be an easy fix or should i go through with the swap?
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I have a 94 gt with the 5sfe and at idle with the a/c on and up to operating temp the idle goes from 750 to 500 and cycles like that. It sounds like it is when the a/c compressor is cycling on and off but the compressor never disconnects the clutch unless I turn the a/c off. also when it drops in rpm the engine shakes bad. I have checked all the motor mounts and all are good and the rear one has a solid mount insert.
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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Just picked up a 1994 1.8 celica hatch and it was told to me that the 100 amp alternator fuse blew and there was some issue. So far haven't found any but I also cant seem to find this 100 amp alt fuse that goes in the fuse box under the hood. I don't have old one.
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At my 30,000 mile service about 6 weeks ago I reported to the service manager that the suspension seemed noisy at low speed over undulating side roads. They could not duplicate the noise. Now with the cold weather, the noise has increased considerably to the extent that my wife who claims never to hear any of the noises I obsess about, asked me what is that knocking noise
I have made an appointment at my dealership first thing on Monday and they are going to ride with me and if necessary use the "chassis ears".
From everything I have read it has to be control arm bushings or the air suspension. I think the fact it has worsened considerably now the temperature has dropped eliminates the brake pad rattle possibility.
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I have a 1994 Celica ST Coupe and looking for good dual or single subwoofer enclosure box that would fit neatly in the trunk against the back of rear seat.
I currently have a 12" Alpine in a huge box in the back- but it simply isnt practical. If I ever needed to remove my spare tire, I would have to disconnect the speaker and remove the entire enclosure.
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I have a 94 celica gt and at random times the power is much greater than normal. it seams to happen most when the engine is not fully warmed up or if I'm driving all day and it starts to cool down for the day. normally my 0 to 60 time is around 8 to 10 seconds and when this happens the time drops to around 6 seconds. I also have a 93 Toyota pick up that does the same thing and another 94 celica that doesn't do it.
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I have a 94 Celica 2.2. I'm having issues with power steering fluid leaking from reservoir cap. I replaced the cap due to the old ones seal had dry rotted and dip stick was broke off, also replaced the 2 small short hoses and new clamps. The return hose is working right and the high pressure hose seems to be working right. None of the hoses are leaking but pressure is building up and pushing fluid out the reservoir cap. What else could be the problem to cause this??
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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I have a celica 1.8 st202 that doesn't start. The efi relay and fuse are ok. I tested these and even replaced the relay with another one.
-When I jumper the pins in the diagnose box B+ and FP the engine starts.
-When I remove it the engine won't start.
-When I remove the jumper the fuel pump doesn't get any power.
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2007 Mercury Milan w/GPS Nav system. Nav DVD reader has become very noisey, high-speed ticking noise. Dealer says whole system must be replaced. Can just the Nav DVD reader be replaced? and if so who/where?
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My GT is very quiet when running and I like that. However, the AC system seems noisy when it is on. When I turn on the fan and heater, I hear a distinct whining sound that increases in frequency as I increase speed. When I turn the fan off, the car is whisper quiet. Also, when I turn the AC on, I can hear what sounds like coolant circulating through the system. At first it sounded like it was coming from the glove compartment and I thought it might be associated with the glove-compartment cooling feature, but I don't believe it is. The noise is not unbearable but it is noticeable and distracting to me.
Is this a noisy climate-control system or is this something unique to my car.
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