I have a hyundai accent 2005 vehicle and there is no Low warning fuel indicator in the vehicle. My entire fuel tank ran dry still there was no low fuel warning light. According to my mechanic there is no low fuel indicator installed in the fuel pump
My VIN number is KMHCG41GR5U633054
I recently had my '02 Accent serviced. When I picked it up, the mechanic had set the parking brake with about 15,000 lbs of force. Once I got it released, I noticed that the red parking brake dash indicator light won't go off while the car is running.
I have verified the brakes are free, and have tried wiggling the brake handle.
Is there a switch somewhere that could be bad? For the record, I do most minor maintenance myself, and have 214,000 trouble-free miles on my 1.5L SOHC Accent.
Just bought a 2005 accent yesterday. I new the bulb was gone, when I lifted the bottom noticed that the battery is so close to the lights I can't get my hand down there. Do I need to remove my battery to replace this bulb? Also what is the model # of the bulb?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The factory alarm goes off intermittently and the central locking engages at times without warning.
I took it to an Auto Electrician who checked it over but couldn't work out the problem. So i took it to the dealer who said it was most likely the bonnet sensor. I wasn't convinced but they went ahead and charged $150 to diagnose and adjust the sensor and said everything would be fine.
Within one day of being 'fixed' the problem has reappeared. I am getting sick of disconnecting a battery terminal every night....
2005 Hyundai Accent stalled on freeway today. It was running fine and suddenly stalled without warning. I tried to restart but the engine doesn't turnover just makes a electrical "weeee" sound. Battery works and lights work. Code reader gave P0340 and P0134 codes.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction bank 1 single sensor
probable causes:
-Open of short circuit condition
-poor electrical connection
-Faulty CMP sensor
-Engine Mechanical fault
P0134-Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) circuit no activity detected
Probable cause:
-Poor electrical connection
-Rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio
-Engine mechanical condition
-Faulty H02S11 (Bank 1 sensor 1)
I'd like to fix it myself; where should I start?
Woke up this morning with a dead battery got a boost and realized that DRL, chime, dome light, dash lights and fuel pump are always on (can hear the fuel pump turning) even when the key is removed. The car will start but i have to remove the positive terminal to prevent a dead battery. Check all the fuses and the 2 diodes all is good. If I pull the 2 head light fuses in the engine bay the fuel pump slows down and the head light go on (The drl turn off).
View 10 RepliesHave power at fuel pump relay but no power at pump harness. Replaced fuel pump but on a budget and I dont know what else to do.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2003 accent and it would start then go but stall, when let sit for some time it would start back up, I have changed all two relays and pump and filter but now it wont start at all. I don't seem to have power to pump as I have hose off and when i turn it over no gas comes out of pump and no sound!!
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Accent GL SOHC 1.5 won't start. It has plenty of battery power to crank over. The fuel pump is not cycling, so I assumed that was the problem and replaced it. Still no fuel pump when the key is turned.
I've read on here how it could be a Crank Position Sensor or a Camshaft Position sensor. I measured the resistance of the Crank Position sensor and got 800 ohms. The specs are [0.486 ~ 0.594kΩ at 20 C (68F)].
I also tried testing ground and voltage to the Camshaft position sensor. With key on, I wasn't getting voltage there (read .028 VDC or so), but the Crank position sensor was also removed. I'm not sure if that has any affect on the test.
So, What is the most likely culprit here? Obviously I'm not familiar with most of the sensors and troubleshooting them.
My hyundai accent 2004 consumes fuel but does not bring out black smoke, what can i do?
View 15 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai accent gl will not start. I have realized it is the because its not getting fuel. the fuel pump is new but not getting power.. there are 5 wires coming from the pomp which is the ground wire?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
One morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
Accent that will crank but won't start. I found out that the fuel pump was not spinning, so I purchased a replacement. Before installing it, I connected all of the wires and the new pump wouldn't spin either. I then hooked the pump directly to the battery and it spins with no problems. After that I realized that the power wire for the pump must be shorting somewhere. So I hooked up the old pump and ran a new power wire from the relay box to the pump. The pump now runs, but the car still won't start. I definitely have fuel to the rail now. I unhooked the fuel line at the fuel rail and it sprays as soon as I turn the key to "On". Now all I need to know is if I'm forgetting something (bleeding the fuel rail?, etc.). Are there any other parts I'm forgetting?
View 24 Replies2004, 3 door Accent, 150K miles. This has been going on for many summers now (had an idea when driving from work). Well when I got home from work, gauge still read E, turned the car off, then back to ACC, still read E.
Opened the fuel cap, didn't hear any hissing noise or any indication that there was alot of pressure build up, put cap back on, turned to ACC, and gauge read normal.
So after a long story my question is this, is there a pressure regulator that when it over pressures, lets it vent, and what is it called and where is it located? I am thinking that regulator might be stuck closed.
I have a 2004 Hyundai accent hatchback with 225000km. The first time I drove it for over an hour, 1 trip no stops, the fuel gauge dropped to empty while there was 3/4 of a tank. The 2nd time I drove over an 1 the fuel gauge dropped again and the gas light came on (again around 3/4 of a tank). My mechanic said until it does it consistently he can't diagnose so I let it go.
More recently, driving it to and from work 5 days, plus some extra city driving, I used 1/4 tank the full week. Today I picked up 4 winter tires and bringing them home (approximately the same distance as my work) I used 1/4 tank right there. I understand it is weighed down, but could it really be that much? What is causing the fuel jumps and gauge jumps? I've already had the float replaced.
I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
View 2 Replies2002 accent with 70k on it the 1.6L
Here is the problem, the car sat for two years and when getting her back to life it would start so i started testing everything i could find. here what I get
Gets spark
Power to the cam and crank sensor.
All fuses and relays are good.
Found out the ecm was not grounding the engine control relay to turn on the pump and injectors so i added my own ground to the grey/orange wire and the pump turned and and it fired right up.?
so my question is what does the ecu look for to turn on this relay?
It was fine for a few days but now even with the relay grounded (activated) the car doesn't start . but let it sit and try again in ten mins and it will start every other time I come home from work and try....but i do still get power to the pump and injectors.? There might be a electrical monster in this car but I don't know what else to check.
I have another accent same year so I switch the ecu and every relay i could find over from the run ing car and i still have this problem, also changed the cam and crank sensor, so I am at a dead stop.
Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
View 8 RepliesI recently bought my new car through a family friend.2000 Hyundai accent auto owned by a 90yr old grandpa since new with only 45k on the clock. im used to driving a manual so I don't know if its just me not used to it but when I slow for a corner to say 15-20km/hr and accelerate out the transmission remains in 3rd gear unless I give it a really good prod then it changes to 2nd or 1st. the acceleration when It does this and stays in 3rd is ok but I just wonder if its normal or is it just burning out the torque converter. also im only getting about 380-400kms out of a tank when driving the same route my old 96 pulsar used to get 550kms from the same fuel. is this normal I would have thought this new car to be using if anything a little less.
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