I have an automatic 2000 Accent.. It stalls after a short distance. I changed the wires, spark plugs, and today I changed the fuel filter and put some injector cleaner but no change.. right after the filter change, it seemed to be OK but I drove about 10 minutes on highway and it stalled again.
If I wait about 10 minutes it starts again but not for long.. According to this, what else can it be?
I have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Chrysler town and country minivan. After filling it at the pump the van will go a short distance and die. It will have a hard time starting and then run fine, until I fill it again.
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Corolla, automatic, loses power when I decelerate after driving for a short distance when I am entering the freeway and trying to accelerate on the ramp and then into traffic. The car never dies or turns off, but loses power and "coasts"; as I coast along and try to get out of the traffic, I press the accelerator pedal almost to the floor and within 5-10 seconds the car will roar to life and accelerate like it's getting all the power it needs. That's usually the end of it for that day...however, there is often some hesitation as I continue driving. This doesn't happen all the time, but almost always when it's been outside all day and the temperature has been at freezing or below...usually when my car has sat all day while I'm at work. My mechanic hasn't had time to look at it yet but has suggested perhaps a bad switch of some kind or maybe a dirty switch. Also, this may be unrelated, but often before this happens the brake light will sometimes come on and stay on...even though the brake isn't on, nor has it been on while parked. This never has happened in the mornings after my car has been in the garage all night.
View 3 RepliesMy Regency will randomly not start. No turn-over, interior lights nice and bright, all lights on dashboard come up. No security light shows up on dashboard thus does not appear to be security system.
Seems to occur more often when car is driven a short distance. Twice I have made short drives come back several hours later car does not start. I wait 7-10 minutes then try again and car starts right up.
1996 Mazda Protégé, 129,000 miles...
A week ago, generator light went on very dimly when starting and driving a very short distance, then it went dark to normal. Just wondering what would cause this problem, if it is even a problem.
Replaced in 2010...
I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
View 2 Replies3 times now in the last week, my 2000 accent has stalled. each time it was at a low idle, slow moving speed. I was rolling up to a red light twice, and gliding into a parking spot the other. There was no coughing or sputtering. It just stopped. Each time, after about 20minutes or so, the car fires right up. it happened twice today after about 4 miles of driving. If the car sits for a day without running (on an off day from work) its a bit hard to start sometimes, but not consistently. Does this sound like a Crankshaft position sensor? or possible a fuel filter?
View 5 RepliesHave a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
My 2001 1.5l works fine when cold however once it reaches temperature it will hiccup and then stall! It WILL NOT fire up until it gets cold again. Usually happens when we are coasting to a stop. I'm not a mechanic but can am mechanically inclined. I brought it to Autozone and had the computer codes sent (yes check engine lt was on) One code was a fuel lean code. Cannot recall the exact number. When it act up it sounds like there is either no fuel or no fire. I cleaned the mass air sensor and put fuel treatment in it and I replaced the fuel gas cap.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 accent 4dr will start up no problem when everything is cold, but once I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes and if i shut it off, it will start back up but then it stalls and wont start back up, or if i just let it run a little bit longer it also stalls, no problems with fuel pump or relay when it is cold it starts right up, but once it stalls it wont turn back on....the pump is getting power even when its hot so could it be a bad wire or should i test the coils when it gets hot or am i completely looking at the wrong thing?
View 4 RepliesI have an 00 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed with about 192000 miles on it. I have put about a tank of gas through it since I've owned it, so I can't give a lot of background on it. When I got it the previous owner told me it was popping out of fifth gear and the clutch fluid leaked.
Upon driving it around a while I noticed it would pop out of fifth and third gears almost at random, but seemed to happen more when I applied throttle. I assumed it was an issue with the shifter not fully engaging the gears, and checked out the bushings under the hood and in the console. All looked good, and I didn't see any extra play.
I drove the car for about 30 miles straight and had to downshift and wasn't able to get the car to go into any gear but fifth. I was moving about 20 mph when this occurred. I was able to limp along to a parking lot where I let the car sit for about ten min and I shifted through the gears when stopped. I headed back home with this problem throughout the trip. There is a sound that happens on occasion (that stops when I press the clutch pedal) that sounds like a bad bearing in the clutch area.
When I'm stopped with the car in neutral and I release the clutch the car stalls like it's in gear. I was able to get the car to move some, but it really doesn't want to it acts like there is something jammed in the gears and popped really loud when I backed it up.
There is fluid for the master cylinder, and I can see the slave cylinder moving when the pedal is pressed. I jacked it up and removed the plug to check for gear oil, and it came pouring out, so I think it has fluid in the gearbox. I'm pretty sure it needs a clutch at the least. I think there may be some internal damage in the tranny, and I'm only into the car for the time it took to power wash a house and don't want to get involved in a big mess.
I have a 2000 hyundai accent and when i fill with fuel it surges like its running out of fuel and stalls when fuel is gets low it runs fine.
View 2 Replies have had many problems with my 2003 Accent. I am not a mechanic, but I suspect the problems are related. My engine sometimes stalls when I sit at a red light. I drive about twenty miles to work. On a good day it will just sputter occasionally. On a bad day it will stall as many as three times. It also frequently "skips" a little while driving. It's like a split second hiccup in engine power.
I also used to have a really hard time filling the gas tank. It would take about fifteen minutes when close to empty. I have had it worked on three times over the past three weeks. First they replaced the timing belt (which I already knew needed to be replaced). Then they replaced something called a charcoal canister and blew out all the vapor vents(?) ( Again, I am not a mechanic). After that the car ran ok for about two days, and I can now fill the tank in about two minutes. But, it began stalling again, just as bad as before. So, they replaced something called a MAP sensor (MAFF?).
It has been a couple of days and the car hasn't stalled . . . yet. However, it still skips occasionally while driving, and my engine light has come on again. The mechanic says the code has something to do with a barometric pressure problem. what might be wrong with it?
I have a 2000 accent with 51000 miles on it. Since I bought it I have maybe put 75 miles on. The other day while going uptown to get lunch i was at a stop sign and i went to take off and it died. now all it does is fires for maybe a second and dies i have 50 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I dont have a scanner and i cant check it by jumping the pins under the dash because there is no. 15 pin.
View 11 RepliesHyundai Accent 2001. Not long after I bought it (from a cowboy, obviously) I filled up my petrol tank to full and as I was pulling out of the petrol station the car stalled and wouldn't start.
This keeps happening every time I fill it up, I can just barely drive it as long as I keep my revs up, but if I start to slow down (when approaching traffic lights etc) the car just stalls.
My check engine light is on but a mechanic just said that was because of a sensor and I don't need to worry about it, I'm not very good with cars so didn't really think much of it.
I can also smell petrol sometimes and when I unscrew my cap on my tank it sometimes hisses (is this normal after driving 30 minutes?)
Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
We are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
I have a 2000 X 7.3 diesel with under 100,000 miles. I drive it about 10,000 miles a year, all towing. However it does get used everyday driving a student to the bus, a distance of about 10 blocks. There is an engine block heater which I use all winter but the engine never warms up on the ten block run. I do service the engine twice a year, every six months. What damage am I doing and what can I do to prevent any damage?
View 14 RepliesSo a couple weeks ago I refilled the reservoir for coolant because it was low. But the radiator level was fine. Then today I checked the reservoir and it was below the L and the radiator level was a little under as well. What could be causing this? Possibly a hose? I don't think it would be a bad radiator?
View 10 Repliessince the cooler weather, i have noticed a short squeal on start after sitting for a while and a squeal when i turn the steering wheel to full lock either direction. question, is the squeal at full lock normal for our cars?
another question, when adjusting the ps belt, do you all use a tool to put tension on the belt till you tighten it or do you just pull back with your hand? I am thinking and hoping the belt just needs a tad more tension on it.
i replaced belts about 2 months ago with gates brand- replaced originals with 30k miles on them. I had squeaking before while running which the belt change fixed.