Accent LC (2000-05) :: Wobble Come From The Rear Of Car But Can Feel Through Steering Wheel
May 18, 2011
I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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How the easiest and safely dismantle my steering wheels...
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Girlfriend went to start her car on a nice cold day, and said it wouldn't turn over. so after taking her to work, i tried to see what the issue was . . . and the key wont move. the steering wheel is loose, i used the transmission override to move the stick back and forth a few times. still no go.
Did the hammer tap on the key, and used electronics cleaner on the switch in case something was stuck.
Oddity was, the door ajar chimes come on without the key inserted. So am I chasing electrical gremlins or what? the car is a base model without keyless entry.
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I'm having the same issue that I had on my previous Mkv car. Around 55-80mph the steering wheel will wobble back and forth at about a quarter of an inch very quickly. It's an identical shake to my last Mkv. I had the wheels balanced and checked for bends and the car aligned. Didn't work. Went to various shops spent too much on balancing. One shop showed me that one of my tires was slightly out of round. So I bought 4 new tires and had them road forced shop said everything was great. Hopped on the freeway and the same wobble was still there. Car is at 52k miles and I've been battling this problem for about 5k miles now.
I've had the entire car checked. One tech told me that the axels could have gone bad so it is going in under warranty to get new axels on Tuesday, then going back in for an alignment. My last Mkv had the same issue around the same mileage and I spent so much on trying to figure it out I eventually got sick of it and traded it in on this GTI. My girl friend just bought an 09 Jetta and it seems to be having early signs of the same vibration. I'm starting to think its an issue with the generation. My mk3 with 200k miles drives smoother than this thing. I love the car but me driving on the freeway so often really kills the enjoyment.
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My accent just crossed 180K mark. From last year the steering wheel shakes quite a bit at highway speeds ,say 70MPH. It's especially bad when I accelerates . Took the car to a shop, they told me two things, the CV axle of passenger side needs replacement, and the wheel hub bearings are bad(both front wheels). They quoted me $200 for replacing the cv axle, and $400 for replacing both front wheel bearings. Since I don't even think the car worth $600 right now(given high mileage), I told them I'll just do the axle(I know how to do it myself but don't have the time, plus it won't be that much cheaper DIY anyway). They said fine, but if you don't replace the bearings you may have the wheel fly off one day and that's dangerous.
They replaced the axle, and the car drives a lot better now. There's still a little bit of shaking at high speed but 75% of that shake has gone away. My question is, does the worn out bearing causes car to tremble at high speed? I heard other people told me there should be a grinding or loud hawling sound if the bearings are bad, but I don't hear that. I searched the internet and some people say, to determine if the hub bearings are bad, just drive it for 10 minutes then feel the hub. If it's barely warm, the bearings are good. If it's warm to hot, then the bearings are bad. I felt it and it's warm, but not too hot to touch. I tried the rear wheels and those are barely warm indeed.
So from this method it seems the front wheel hub bearings are indeed bad. I wonder how long I can keep driving this without endanger myself. $400 is not cheap for this car and I don't have a machine to press in the bearings myself. I can disassemble the rotor and hub that's not a big deal, but I don't know how to get the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Is there a machine shop that just do the pressing? Or, is there any shop selling the hub assembly with bearing already in place? this way I just remove the old hub assembly and replace it with the new assembly, a lot easier. I searched the internet but can only find pre-assembled hub w/ bearing for the rear wheel of this car. I need the front ones.
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My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
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Off late my Honda Odyssey steering wheel wobble beyond 60MPH ONLY while going STRAIGHT and foot off of the GAS (which enters eco mode).My mechanic looked at it and said, it is not alignment or any mechanical issue. I looked at the other posts and I could not find any closer to this.
One more thing, I have got the Steering Pump fixed as part of a Recall ( at slow speeds, while turning makes a lot of noise)
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I have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2001 and today while driving the battery light and brake light both went on and the steering wheel became "stiff" - hard to turn - although driving in a straight line seemed to be as usual.
I would just take it to the garage, but although it still starts as usual, it seems hard and probably a bad idea to drive it there in its current condition.
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I just bought this transmission from a reliable parts dealer. Should have about 50k miles on it. Looked really clean when I got it.
The guys who put in the tranny cracked a speed sensor, so I bought a new one and put that in. I dried off the sensors and screwed them into their spot on the tranny after removing the intake filter that was in the way.
Even with the new speed sensor the car is still doing the following:
1) Does not go into reverse until I've gone into drive for a couple seconds, pulling forward. Reverse does not work. However, when I unplug the speed sensor reverse works right away, but we still experience the following...
2) car goes from first to second gear to third gear smoothly, as it should. Seems really smooth like a car should shift! However... it won't go past 3rd gear and then it won't downshift! So, even after stopping and idling, I can't leave 3rd gear.
3) When I turn the car off, then turn it right back on, I can go through first, second, third gear again then... it stays in 3rd gear.
Another issue that has come to my attention since I got the car back, is the steering wheel shakes pretty hard while idling with no gas. While driving it seems smooth -- idling again it shakes heavily. what could they have damaged while putting in the tranny to cause this shaking?
So far as the funny tranny stuck in 3rd gear, it seems to me like it's a computer issue? But, what could be the cause? What tests can I do to determine the cause of this problem besides the ones I've run so far?
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I recently parked my 2001 Accent for the past year and now the rear passenger side wheel won't move. I'm assuming it has seized. I am trying to open the drum for the rear wheel but am not really sure how. The wheel is removed so is the Bolt locking the drum in place. Should it now just pull off? I have a read that it is possible the emergency break is whats causing it to seize up. How does one manually removing the parking break lock ?
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I have been driving a 2000 accent with 146k miles on it, and while driving home I thought I had a flat tire. Get out, tires look fine, so I give one (passenger side rear) a light kick with my toe, and it moves. I can wiggle it about 1/4 inch of play, and when lifted on a jack, the wheel rotates just fine so I don't know if its a bearing issue, the shock also turns with the wheel, left/right. The driver side rear doesn't do this so I decided to park it and not drive. What it is?
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I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
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My 2005 Honda Civic just made it through a blizzard (outside the whole time). This morning I started driving it, and whenever I got above 45 mph the steering wheel started vibrating / whobbling very badly. My car seat was also vibrating. I poured hot water over the rims when I got home and that did not seem to work. Should I take it to a car wash? Is my car safe to drive?
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2002 sc430 73k miles.
I have a slight steering wobble (not really shaking/vibration) at higher speeds and only when I turn the wheel to the left or right a little (maybe a 1/2 inch). If I am driving straight down the highway it is smooth at any speed 40-90mph no issues. If I move the wheel to the left or right I feel the the wobble in the wheel. If I go back and forth a little, constantly, with the wheel it continuously wobbles.
I had recently addressed some other vibration issues by installing new LCA #2, continental DWS tires, and had the front end aligned (front -.3L and -.5R for camber, Rear -1L and -1R camber, front and rear toe set to -.07, if I recall). I couldn't really remember if I felt this wobble before because the tires and LCA's needed to be done badly. I am not sure if I should replace the struts either since ride feels good.
My steering feels darn good and responsive at low speeds and does not wobble when turning the wheel slightly. I have purchased new oem steering rack bushings but have not installed them yet (purchased as a preventive maintenance part when i had some free time, before I discovered this issue).
I have read a few threads about alignment of the steering rack causing issues if it is not perfectly centered. Not sure if that would cause anything like this. Love driving the car but the wobble is rather annoying when i turn the wheel a little to change lanes at 75mph.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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Vibrating at 50-55mph, also at 75+, was reduced considerably when forward transmission mount was replaced. Still shimmies and feel little in the steering wheel. Have replaced tie rod ends, back struts and tires. Need to figure out what I am missing.
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Maybe I'm just too picky or my imagination is kicking in. In the last week or two, I noticed a grinding like feel on the stick, the steering wheel and the gas pedal (just a little, not too much), something like a bracket or plate loose somewhere and I can feel it more the faster I go. This can be reproduced by just pressing the clutch a little right up to the point where actually start engaging. I had the same feel on my Maxima and it was the heat shield. Am I alone on this one?
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Very annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
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Ok so we all know it's usually warped rotors or possibly a caliber problem. But let's say u have new of both. And still I'm getting a wobble, not only when I brake at higher speeds, but when I'm on certain roads. Only certain roads. Say about 20% of other roads while driving I get a slight wobble. Not too bad, but a very annoying wobble. I bought this CTS at 35k and now has 45k on it. And again I bought this car for my long commute and a smooth drive. Which I'm not getting. I can't take it anymore! I've got to figure this out. Getting a wobble in the steering while on super smooth roads. And I know it's the car because I have a Chevy Cavalier and a Dodge truck in the family that don't wobble on the same roads.
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