I have an 08 accent gls hatch that stalled the other day and wont start. Replaced the crank and cam sensors as well as the map and purge valve. Now it sputters and stalls with the fuel pump jumped. Has spark ans well as fuel at rail. What am i missing- no engine codes...
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
Was coasting down a hill(manual transmission) and the car stalled out on me. Tried for a couple minutes to restart it with no luck, the engine turns over but just wont start.
As I post this I still haven't got the car home so I haven't been able to do any trouble shooting yet. Once I get it home I'll ceck for fuel and spark, and from what I have read already people have said it could be the Crankshaft Sensor.
2001 Accent 1.5 - Manual
Up until this there has been no signs of any issues with running or starting...
My 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
Car died while driving home. Now it wont start. The tow truck driver that towed me home swears that the timing belt is out. Car makes spinning noise when I try to start it. I plugged in my code reader and got P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input. Not sure where to go from here. Do I replace the sensor or take it in to have the timing belt done? 109,000 miles.
View 7 RepliesI'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
View 8 RepliesMy accent won't start anymore. When I turn the key, I hear a series of clicks, but the car won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, lights/radio/wipers all work fine. It's a 2008 manual car.
View 3 RepliesWhen idling and when first start to accelerate it feels like my car is hiccuping. I don't know what the issue is. I do know When i first bought The car about 8 months ago the oils Got wet when The dealer power washed he engine.
View 4 RepliesThe timing belt broke in my gf's '08 accent recently and I decided to have a crack at replacing the belt after getting a quote for $900 from the nearest mechanic (with no guarantee it would fix the problem).
When re-aligning the cam and crank to TDC, I wasn't sure if it mattered which revolution the crank was on (ie. 1st or 2nd revolution) when putting everything back together. I tested rotating the engine with the new belt on slowly to make sure there was no contact and everything seemed ok.
So basically now everything is back together, tried starting it up and it won't start and now i'm wondering if it would make a difference or not if the crank was rotated 1 additional revolution. Otherwise there is more significant damage.
The other day my truck stalled out and wouldn't start so I had it towed to the shop, the shop tested the fuel pump but couldn't find anything and it fired up and ran fine for them. It ran fine for a day and now is running extremely rich. The only code it's throwing is P0452 which is for the evap system. I spent awhile searching but couldn't find any answer on it.
I couldn't find any loose connections in the harness or on top of the fuel tank, I had the classic FDPM issues before so I replaced that. I'm beyond frustrated with this hulk seems like once a month it wants to quit working.
Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
View 5 RepliesThe 2008 Prius I have when it comes to a stoplight all of a sudden the car shakes. And then of course it sounds like a Chets off. Now over the years I have not really paid a whole lot attention to this but in the last year so it seems like a car has shaken more as it turns off at the red light what do you think.
View 14 RepliesMy 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
View 7 RepliesI just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
Driving along down the highway, was braking to make a turn and they car stalled on me. tried to crank it over in neutral. then pulled over put it in park and cranked it over, nothing... got a tow home and in the garage. The car will turn over till the cows come home and i can smell fuel. I pulled a spark plug out and got a spark. Check engine light stays on with the battery light.
2005 accent 1.8
148k miles on it
new spark plugs
Will I get a spark if the crankshaft position sensor is bad?
2 days ago my 2000 Hyundai accent Gl 1.5 stalled while driving i lost no power to my electrical system all my lights and stereo stayed on but i lost all engine power the check engine light popped on and i had to have a friend tow me home this has never happened to me before. I had sat in my yard for about a year before i started driving it again due to money problems. I did a tune up on it before I took it out anywhere and ran some lucas injector cleaner and changed oil added some oil additive and changed my air filter spark plugs seemed fine so I didn't replace them and it ran for almost a month just fine i have about 150k in miles on it then suddenly just died while driving home from work I am thinking its in my fuel lines filter or pump are clogged up but I am not sure. I am going to start diagnosing it tomorrow. I can't get the check engine light looked at cuz I can't get it started.
View 2 RepliesSo I went to get my '08 Accent inspected, and we observed that the right side and the 3rd brake lights were out. Replaced the bulb on the right side and still out. Not even going to attempt the 3rd light until I can get more info, because the odds of a complete LED strip quitting all at once are, well, remote enough to be laughable.
I checked the RH tail lamp fuse - connection still good. The left side brake light still works, so I'm doubtful that this is the notorious brake light switch that was recalled - unless such an issue has indeed been reported with said switch...
We recently purchased a 2008 Accent Hatchback. We've noticed that even though we turn the full lights on, the headlights are only as bright as the daytime running lights. We then tried the high beams by turning the knob, but nothing. The high beams only work when you hold the stick. We have replaced the bulbs.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
View 13 RepliesMy son phone me from his University saying that whole car was shaking when engaged in R or D. I thought it was a failed GB mounting but turn out to be the RH engine mount. I replaced it but got #3 cylinder misfiring and high idling (1500 rpm) from OBD2 reader.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils swap but still same DTCs. We can hear the misfiring from the exhaust noise. However engine power is normal. But the newly fitted engine mount may not last with the misfiring not resolved. I have cleaned the throttle body too.