Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 - Struggles To Accelerate At About 35 - 45 Mph
Jan 28, 2014
I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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The car doesn't struggle to start at any other time just when fueling. I have a 2011 Accent and I am looking for the locations of the various components involved so I can test them to see where the problem is.
I know the purge valve is mounted on the rear of the intake manifold below the air hose. Now is the solenoid and the valve the same part? I see various diagrams pointing to the valve and labeling it solenoid. The other part is the EVAP canister. I know it's some place near the gas tank but not sure where and I can't find any diagrams online.
I am comfortable with minor repairs. I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and a purge valve before so would this repair be something I could do myself or would I be better off taking it to the dealership?
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After getting to about 1/4 tank, I fuel up and fill the tank but when I try to start the car, it cranks for a while and then finally starts. It will idle really low so I have to rev it until the engine starts getting gas at a steady pace.
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When idling and when first start to accelerate it feels like my car is hiccuping. I don't know what the issue is. I do know When i first bought The car about 8 months ago the oils Got wet when The dealer power washed he engine.
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I have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
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The past couple days when driving to school in the morning i've been noticing that my car starts to rattle and struggles to accelerate once I pull out of my driveway. Once i get to the next stop sign to take off the car runs fine like nothing ever happened. My check engine light doesn't come on though. I usually let the car sit for about 30 seconds to a minute before i start to move the car. Mods I have are Unitronic stage 2, Forge 007p DV with yellow spring, and 3" downpipe.
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My 2002 Accent sometimes struggles to start. It is generally a great reliable car and has a great service history. About 8 months ago I notice that two or three times it wouldnt start on first or second turn of the key. I got a service and the problem disappeared until recently again. Every so often (once a week or so) it will struggle to start and I will have to wait a few seconds before trying again, where it does fire up.
This is not a battery problem as I put a new battery in it 2 days ago. The fuel pump noise when turning the key also comes on. Could this simply be that the Spark Plugs ned changing? It has driven 5,000 miles since it's last service.
By the way, when I say struggles to start, it will turn over absolutely normally, but it will not ignite and actually start the engine, or "fire" up.
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My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
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I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
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I recently installed an AEM intake on my 08 Accent GLS with an automatic trans. After I installed it I noticed the trans shifting funny into 4th gear. Before shifting into 4th the RPM's will drop accelerate a little more then it will shift into 4th. I've thought about switching to Royal Purple trans fluid to see if it will fix the problem.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with 52000Km (32932miles) The car was parked since 2011 and now when I started it, it started really rough and would not accelerate (it would die if i pressed the acceleration pedal) but now after multiple attempts the car sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't unless I press the acceleration pedal when starting the car then the car revs to 2000rpm and dies within 1-2seconds,I also hear a odd sound from the intake its like a loud rumble. So far I have tried
- changing the spark plugs
- changing the coils
- checked spark
- cleaned intake manifold
- cleaned throttle body
- replaced PCV valve (because originally there was alot of oil in the intake)
- checked if fuel pump is pumping gas
I also checked the engine codes and there is a code for crankshaft position sensor abnormal -P0336 I unplugged the crankshaft sensor and the car wont start at all further more I also checked if it was sending the correct rpms with my obd tool and it seems like it is ...
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I have a 2008 prius and can't get get more than 35 mpg. The battery is refurbished, I have done air flow sensor, throttle body, spark plugs and have good tires. I drive 120 miles a day and make 50 stops. I get better mpg on the highway. also, the engine doesn't seem to shut off all the time at a light and the battery is hardly ever in green. Also it seems like the engine struggles a lot, almost like there is an engine brake. I am losing faith. what is the point of this prius.
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GS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
Link " [URL] .....
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So I went to get my '08 Accent inspected, and we observed that the right side and the 3rd brake lights were out. Replaced the bulb on the right side and still out. Not even going to attempt the 3rd light until I can get more info, because the odds of a complete LED strip quitting all at once are, well, remote enough to be laughable.
I checked the RH tail lamp fuse - connection still good. The left side brake light still works, so I'm doubtful that this is the notorious brake light switch that was recalled - unless such an issue has indeed been reported with said switch...
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We recently purchased a 2008 Accent Hatchback. We've noticed that even though we turn the full lights on, the headlights are only as bright as the daytime running lights. We then tried the high beams by turning the knob, but nothing. The high beams only work when you hold the stick. We have replaced the bulbs.
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My son phone me from his University saying that whole car was shaking when engaged in R or D. I thought it was a failed GB mounting but turn out to be the RH engine mount. I replaced it but got #3 cylinder misfiring and high idling (1500 rpm) from OBD2 reader.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils swap but still same DTCs. We can hear the misfiring from the exhaust noise. However engine power is normal. But the newly fitted engine mount may not last with the misfiring not resolved. I have cleaned the throttle body too.
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My 2008 Accent has a manual trans and 4-Cyl, 1.6L. It had some bad fuel 4 weeks ago, and filled the tank with 97 to clean it back up.
I was driving and came to a stop sign - the server stopped and wouldn't start up again. I was worried about the fuel pump, and ended up replacing the whole thing (under the passenger seat).
I have tested the following:
- When cranked, the bottom of the spark plugs are wet (so gas is getting to the plugs)
- When plugs are pulled out, they spark against the block (so spark should be getting to the cylinder).
The car still doesn't start, and the cranking sounds 'off'. I can't exactly describe what's wrong, but I've had it for six years and it doesn't sound right.
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Car died while driving home. Now it wont start. The tow truck driver that towed me home swears that the timing belt is out. Car makes spinning noise when I try to start it. I plugged in my code reader and got P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input. Not sure where to go from here. Do I replace the sensor or take it in to have the timing belt done? 109,000 miles.
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I took a look at a few topics regarding fuses, and pulled my fuses to see, but didn't see anything too weird.
In any case, every few days or so, I'll go to unlock my car and the keyless entry won't work. I'll open the door with my key, turn the ignition, and notice that my radio has completely reset and essentially the items power cycle, like power was lost when the car was off.
Like I mentioned, I have checked the fuses in the cabin area (but where to start for the fuses in the engine compartment).
The car is fine 99% of the time, but this really worries me, especially since I'm looking to sell the car.
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I'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
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I have an 08 accent gls hatch that stalled the other day and wont start. Replaced the crank and cam sensors as well as the map and purge valve. Now it sputters and stalls with the fuel pump jumped. Has spark ans well as fuel at rail. What am i missing- no engine codes...
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