Accent MC (2006-11) :: Started Rough And Shuts Off When Accelerate / Won't Start
May 5, 2015
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with 52000Km (32932miles) The car was parked since 2011 and now when I started it, it started really rough and would not accelerate (it would die if i pressed the acceleration pedal) but now after multiple attempts the car sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't unless I press the acceleration pedal when starting the car then the car revs to 2000rpm and dies within 1-2seconds,I also hear a odd sound from the intake its like a loud rumble. So far I have tried
- changing the spark plugs
- changing the coils
- checked spark
- cleaned intake manifold
- cleaned throttle body
- replaced PCV valve (because originally there was alot of oil in the intake)
- checked if fuel pump is pumping gas
I also checked the engine codes and there is a code for crankshaft position sensor abnormal -P0336 I unplugged the crankshaft sensor and the car wont start at all further more I also checked if it was sending the correct rpms with my obd tool and it seems like it is ...
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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When idling and when first start to accelerate it feels like my car is hiccuping. I don't know what the issue is. I do know When i first bought The car about 8 months ago the oils Got wet when The dealer power washed he engine.
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
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I own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
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I recently installed an AEM intake on my 08 Accent GLS with an automatic trans. After I installed it I noticed the trans shifting funny into 4th gear. Before shifting into 4th the RPM's will drop accelerate a little more then it will shift into 4th. I've thought about switching to Royal Purple trans fluid to see if it will fix the problem.
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I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
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Just changed second timing belt on my Accent. When starting it up afterwards it stuttered then started up. Ran fine for 10 minutes parked it and went inside. Came out 10 minutes later and same thing stuttered to start but it did second time. CEL came on P0016. I know what the code is after looking it up, but I'm sure that the timing belt is set on TDC. Could it really be the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? Didn't go anywhere near it when changing the belt.
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Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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Encountered the said issue where the ABS light will not go off even after engine started.
After a 30 mins smooth drive, I park my car and went off for 10 minutes. Back to the car and it took longer time than usual to start the engine. (normally took only 1 second to start the engine). It feels like the battery is not properly charge.
After a short drive, my parking brake aka hand brake and ABS light appear at the same time when the car is moving. Stop my car aside, restart engine, parking brake back to normal. ABS light will not go off since then. Starting the car seems easy as usual though.
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