Accent MC (2006-11) :: CEL Came On And Started Flashing - Oil In Cylinder
Nov 2, 2015
Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent that is giving me one heck of a headache. I keep getting a code for number 1 cylinder misfire. When you start it up it runs fine for a while then the CEL will flash and it will start running rough. As soon as I shut it off and restart it, it runs fine. I even experimented with it this morning on the way to work. It started running rough doing 60, I put it in neutral, turned the car off and then right back on, put it back in gear. It ran fine the rest of the way to work. I have swapped coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, and have even hang tested another ECM. Still number 1 cylinder misfire.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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I got a 2002 and its giving ma a po301. I know that means a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the Coils, Plugs and wires, and now its still there but the check engine light is flashing. What next?????
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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2014 Accent 14,000 miles
Filled the tank and shortly thereafter there CEL started flashing and the car sounded like it was missing. It was towed to the dealer, and they said they cleared the light and could not get it to happen again.
When I next drove the car it ran fine for 20 minutes, then it started misfiring and the CEL started to flash. Had it towed to a different dealer, and they said the same thing. Cleared the light, but couldn't get it to happen again.
On the way home form the dealer, after about 20 minutes of driving - the same thing. Today, I started the car in the AM no light and running fine, drove around and town and in exactly 20 minutes it was misfiring again.
First dealer said it was a P0302 code.
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I just bought a 03 accent the same day i bought it the CEL came on got it read and it was cylinder 4 misfire. took it to the garage the dealer i bought it from takes it to he said there was a little water around the boot in that weird little channel area under the cover he said he cleaned it up dried all out then reset the code and it was good, for a little about 2 weeks later it comes on again i get it read and it says cy 4 misfire again but also P0133 (o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1) and i cannot remember exactly but i think the CEL came on after the exhaust started sounding loud, like it has one of those ricer mufflers on it.
Well I jacked up the car today and looked the only thing i saw was after the first cat right before the braided flex pipe there is this weird "shield" looking piece on the underside of the exhaust pipe dunno if its really supposed to be there or what it is for but from somewhere under that piece i can see exhaust coming out(its cold right now) also the flex piece is kinda blackened like its had exhaust fumes blowing on it for a while. i cant imagine why this would be a normal thing but i have never worked on hyunda before. i am thinking if there is some sort of "leak" there that is why the o2 code is showing. i am stumped, esp on the cy 4 misfire all sparks and wires look good i pulled each wire with it running and it bogs down til i plug it back in.
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Been awhile since I've been able to post but I've got a serious issue with my 2006 Ranger XLT 4L V6. So last night about 2 miles from home my check engine light started flashing like it was a at a rave and my engine wasn't acting right, also had the STRONG odor of raw gas, no other lights from the dash, no fluids leaking, oil was good n nothing in radiator but coolant. Was able to baby it to my current home but all my tools are in storage so had to wait to get my ODB scanner to see what's up. Scan came back as 'cylinder #3 misfire' & 'O2 sensor reading rich'.
Go cylinder #3 spark plug out and it were fouled bad. Got ride to the store and got a whole new set. Got back n got'em changed and fired ut up, idle still rough and check engine started flashing again and white cloud coming from exhaust pipe and STRONG odor of gas. Check and now have 'multiple missfire', 'cylinder #2 misfire' and 'cylinder #3 misfire'.
Shut it down go and double check ALL spark plug wires are connected and TRY to start, get about a turn n a half then starter spin. Try again and the engine won't even turn over. "Great I've seized the engine!" Was able to put a socket on the crankshaft pully and manually turn the engine over "whew didn't seize the engine", did this a couple of times and tried to start, was rough but eventually it fired up, still idling rough and again check engine light flashing, while it was running I pulled one plug wire at a time from the coilpack to see/feel the lighting and there was spark for the 3 I pulled, didn't affect engine idle.
Run codes and 'cylinder #3 misfire', so now that the engine is was warmed up I pulled out my ohm meter and started checking wire resistance. Cylinders #1, #2 were at .012, #3 was .011 and #5 was .009.
I've figured that the raw gas is due to cylinder #3 not burning and just pushing gas into the exhaust. So to the brass tacks, do I invest in a new set of wires? Or could it be the injector being stuck open and just flooding the cylinder? No when I originally pulled the #3 plug fuel did not spill out. Haven't pulled #3 again due to it being May in Arizona and had to take a break. I'm going on the assumption that the engine wouldn't start after a short run do to "hydraulic lock in cylinder #3", my manually turning the engine over cleared this and allowed the engine to start.
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What is the easiest fix on this and what is the worse case scenario?
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I am currently having an issue with my 07 Accent misfiring on cylinder 1. So far, I have changed the spark plugs, which were due anyway, and checked the coil pack. Every coil on each cylinder reads 0.8 ohms, so I am going on the assumption that they are ok. Didn't see any issue with the connector end inside the boot. However, when I changed the plugs, I discovered that I had oil in the plug tubes on 1 and 4. So I changed the valve cover gasket and tube rings and cleaned all oil residue from the packs. I have also checked the short coil wire harness right on the packs themselves. Have not tried to check further because I don't know which pins that harness goes to on which ECM connector. I still have the misfire, and I'm not sure where to go next. I was thinking compression or fuel injector. I don't have a compression tester, and I assume the only way I can check the injector is to swap it with another cylinder?
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My car has been really acting up lately (AGAIN) so I took it in to have it looked at and they came back and told me it had multiple cylinder misfire, and they wanted like $1200 to fix it. What in the world does that mean and what is entailed in fixing it? They mentioned doing a full maintenance on it.
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2007 accent randomly starts missing. throws cyl.3 missfire. replaced all plugs and cyl.3 coilpak.
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I have a 2009 Accent. It has a misfire on cyl 3. I've changed the spark plugs... no change. I swapped around the coils... no change. The misfire stays on cyl 3. What are my next steps to isolate and resolve this misfire?
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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So I've been living in FL and the other day there was a hurricane and the roads flooded. I think I got some water in my engine or somewhere because now my CEL is coming on then flashing and the car sounds like it's underwater! I haven't been able to drive it anywhere to get the code checked, I don't want to drive it because it seems like it's in rough shape. I checked all the plugs and cleaned them, but the 1st one was wet so I think there may have been water in there. After I cleaned the plugs I reset the ECU and the CEL was gone and I drove it 2 miles w/o issue. Then I went to the automotive store to get some oil/filter, etc to change the oil. I get back to my car and as soon as I turn it on again the CEL comes on and then starts flashing after a few mins of me revving it. I noticed that there is water coming out of the exhaust, like a lot more than normal, so what is happening. I did the oil change with no problems but when I started it again the CEL came on and started flashing. 2007 Accent SE
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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My 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
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I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
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I have a 2009 Accent that has a wheel cylinder leaking. I don't have any flare nut wrenches. Its supposed be a 11 mm. I ran across a few WEB pages and videos that state that a 7/16" fits better? I know I could by both sets, 7/16 would be a better choice?
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This morning my son started the 2008 Accent and it ran really bad, he shut if off started it again and still ran really bad and check engine light started to flash. Shut it off and ran for the bus to school.
Went and picked up a OBD scanner and found a cylinder 1 misfire. Tried to start it and had a really hard time and when it did start ran like crap and smelled gas. Checked the codes again and now got Multiple cylinder misfires, cylinder 4 misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
Pulled the engine cover to pull the coils and plugs and I find a ton of mouse crap. No signs of any chewed wires or anything that I could see. Drove it to the local Hyundai dealer tonight because I am worried that it may not be the coil packs. Drove OK to the dealer. My brother is the service manager at the local Mazda dealer and he sees a lot of mouse damage. Said I should put a couple of old socks with moth balls in the engine compartment to deter the mice.
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Happened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
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