Accent RB (2012+) :: CEL Started Flashing And Misfiring Shortly After Filling The Tank
Sep 6, 2015
2014 Accent 14,000 miles
Filled the tank and shortly thereafter there CEL started flashing and the car sounded like it was missing. It was towed to the dealer, and they said they cleared the light and could not get it to happen again.
When I next drove the car it ran fine for 20 minutes, then it started misfiring and the CEL started to flash. Had it towed to a different dealer, and they said the same thing. Cleared the light, but couldn't get it to happen again.
On the way home form the dealer, after about 20 minutes of driving - the same thing. Today, I started the car in the AM no light and running fine, drove around and town and in exactly 20 minutes it was misfiring again.
First dealer said it was a P0302 code.
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My wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
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I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
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Recently, my Accent has been acting up (twice) while filling the tank. I haven't done any work on it that would cause this recently, but while fueling, the pump will click and stop repeatedly, as if the tank was full. It takes sometimes 20 minutes just to put 8 gallons in it. I've tried two separate pumps. Next fill-up, I'll try a different gas station because I've heard that can sometimes be a problem. They said their pumps weren't empty so that's not the case.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2014 camry SE 2.5 with 66.000 miles on it and been having issues since the warranty expired..... What it could be? Cleaned the maf sensor and still no luck and every time i fill the gas tank it won't start takes a while.
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I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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2010 F-150 with 5.4 has stalled shortly after filling gas tank last 3 times. Truck will restart after much cranking. No other stalls except after filling.
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1999 F350. It has the 7.3 diesel engine. His complaint is the truck will stall out on him shortly after filling up. It makes no difference if he is driving at full speed or stopped at a light the truck has stalled in both situations. He reports that he resulted to only filling up to half a tank for a while and that seemed to stop the problem. I was thinking a vent problem. Maybe the gas cap is bad causing a vacuum situation But I have read a few articles about tank delamination and now I'm not sure what to think.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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I've got a 2001 Prius with a minor but annoying problem. It pops a P0440 code from time to time, always shortly after the gas tank is filled. Driveability/fuel economy are unaffected, and no other codes are ever triggered.
I checked for a cracked hose nipple on the "tank retainer", as posted by forum member kmc6566, but the unit on my car looked ok.
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I have a 2001 Prius with 204K miles. On cold mornings when I start the car first time, within a minute it shuts down with red triangle flashing. After resetting it, car works fine all day without any problem.
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The maintenance required light just started flashing on our Camry last night.
It just went to the dealer at 4,200 mi for an "early" oil change (I had wanted an early oil change done, and the the dealer said it wasn't required til 10,000 miles). So no new oil.
It's about 7 months old, and mostly driven on short trips - our other car is used for the long trips. Tires were rotated @ last service.
Does it actually want an oil change? I'd take it to the dealer, but their next appointment is 2 weeks out.
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Two weeks ago I bought a new 2012 Outback. While driving in the manual auto mode, the cruise started flashing, the check engine came on, the traction control light came on and the brake light was on. The dealer said it was because I did not tighten the gas cap, letting air in. They reset it but a few days later it came back on again and this time they said it was miss fire code. Since they couldn't figure out the issue, they did the right thing and traded it in for another, identical 2012 Outback. Now, 8 days later, all the same lights have come on.
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My drivers side turn signals are hyper blinking. I tried replacing all four bulbs with new ones, but it keeps doing this. I am using stock turn signal (1157a and 1156a bulbs)...
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My maintenance light started flashing @ the 4500 mile mark so I checked the oil and was half a qt low. I was a bit surprised. I was not at any type of incline and I drive pretty light. Def don't drive hard. Normal or no?
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Check engine light popped on (first time ever) at 76,000 miles. Had my brother read the code with this engine diagnostic tool and it said "Fuel Cap". No big deal...
Take it to Hyundai, nope, not fuel cap... it's an Emissions/Evap control valve leaking above the fuel tank somewhere.
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My front left turn signal was hyper flashing. I replaced all four bulbs to no avail. Just to satisfy my curiosity I switched the bulb holder from left to right sides. The hyper flash followed to the right side. Turns out that the bulb holder shorted out. I had it replaced under warranty yesterday.
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