Accent MC (2006-11) :: Check Engine Light On / Flashing
Jun 20, 2010
As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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Earlier today i left my car idling for a couple of minutes and when i got back in and started to drive the car was vibrating, almost as if it was going to stall and the check engine light was flashing. drove a bit and stopped, started the car and now the check engine light stays on constantly. I have had the light come on (and remain on) a few times in the last while but it is usually solved by tightening the gas cap. it always seems to happen when i am low on gas (100 mile range-ish) Someone suggested maybe i had dirty gas in the car and needed stabilizer. My boyfriend said its a "misfire" and to change the spark plugs.
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I have had this issue on and off for a while. happened about 2 years ago just after i bought the car, and just started last week again.
The car will be running fine, then will start to buck while accelerating, shortly after the check engine light will start flashing and the car runs like it is on 1 cylinder. shut of and start again, light remains on( not flashing), car runs smoother, but does not accelerate like it should.
took it to autozone, they said it was giving the code for random mis-fire, and O2 sensor.
2 years ago the dealer said it was loose coils, and they fixed the problem, all the coils feel tight this time.
2007 Sonata ... 3.3 V6, 70k
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My Sonata has 150k on it and the tensioners have gone bad 3 months now. This AM i got a flashing check eng. light and the car runs rough. Any relation or am I looking at plugs or coil issues?
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Kia rio 2006 130461 today I went and got gas right when I pulled out light began to flash and car shaking went to auto zone codes p0302 and p0326. I had knock senor changed 2 months ago . What could be the problem the guy said I just need a tune up . Is this true ? Is my car safe to drive car not shaking now and no changes in function of my car. There no way I can any one to look at it for couple begin tomorrow sunday.
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
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This morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
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My check engine light has been on for months and the only code coming up is for the VSS. I got the VSS replaced and the light came back on as soon as I hit 70 on the freeway. Checked the code again and the same one came up. Is this a common issue with 06 Accents? I'm wondering if it might be a wiring or computer issue... My ABS light is also on, would this have anything to do with it?
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I just bought a used 2009 Accent. After a few months, I had it in for an oil change and the mechanic said there was NO air filter even installed in the car. Obviously I know enough that I need one, so I had one put in. Within a few miles of doing that, the check engine light came on. I took it to autozone and it gave error P0172 which appears to be an oxygen sensor. I would really like to know if it's possible the previous owner took the air filter out on purpose because they knew that the check engine light would come on if they put one in.... etc?
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Today the CEL on my 2010 HB with 30,000km came on and the car ran rough like it had a bad spark plug. I went straight home and luckily had a set on hand and replaced them. Car now runs like before but the CEL is still on.
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I just bought a Hyundai Accent 08, and the check engine light has been coming on after I put gas in the car, it doesn't run poorly, it only happens after I put gas in the car. and usually after I drive it a while after. Not sure what is going on?
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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I have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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I did a spirited sprint from a stop light and then got this cel. It says it's for the second 02 sensor. I got home, jacked it up and checked it out. Everything looked, sounded, smelled, ran fine. What should I do?
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Our second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
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So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
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