2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
The instrument panel in my 2002 Hyundai Accent GSI quit working. I pulled the cluster and both bulbs were working (replaced them anyway). All lights and fuses work, including the dimmer. All I can see at night is the speedometer reading, lit by these two bulbs.
There are two holes, covered over, for two other bulbs. They were never installed! Hyundai dealer has no idea on what could be wrong. I can't see how the white part could have been backlit without these two bulbs. Doesn't make sense.
I have a 2007 sonata gls with 2.4l engine. The airbag light on instrument panel stays on. A code b1102 has been stored. The code description is low voltage. I've been told its a bad srs module under center console.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford F 450 turbo diesel dual wheel truck,my problem is an engine light came up on the instrument panel so i hooked up my scangauge and found the code P20BA I went further into the diagnostics of the scangauge and found nothing,i cleared the code and drove down the road and the light came back on could the sensor be faulty and if so does any body know where the sensor is located.
View 6 RepliesThis morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
View 2 RepliesAs the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
My check engine light has been on for months and the only code coming up is for the VSS. I got the VSS replaced and the light came back on as soon as I hit 70 on the freeway. Checked the code again and the same one came up. Is this a common issue with 06 Accents? I'm wondering if it might be a wiring or computer issue... My ABS light is also on, would this have anything to do with it?
View 5 RepliesI just bought a used 2009 Accent. After a few months, I had it in for an oil change and the mechanic said there was NO air filter even installed in the car. Obviously I know enough that I need one, so I had one put in. Within a few miles of doing that, the check engine light came on. I took it to autozone and it gave error P0172 which appears to be an oxygen sensor. I would really like to know if it's possible the previous owner took the air filter out on purpose because they knew that the check engine light would come on if they put one in.... etc?
View 3 RepliesToday the CEL on my 2010 HB with 30,000km came on and the car ran rough like it had a bad spark plug. I went straight home and luckily had a set on hand and replaced them. Car now runs like before but the CEL is still on.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a Hyundai Accent 08, and the check engine light has been coming on after I put gas in the car, it doesn't run poorly, it only happens after I put gas in the car. and usually after I drive it a while after. Not sure what is going on?
View 10 RepliesI have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
View 1 RepliesI did a spirited sprint from a stop light and then got this cel. It says it's for the second 02 sensor. I got home, jacked it up and checked it out. Everything looked, sounded, smelled, ran fine. What should I do?
View 28 RepliesOur second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
View 6 RepliesI have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
My wife was about to go into work today and when she started the Accent she said it started rough and revved up two or three times and the check engine light flashed 5 or 6 times. The light stayed on solid after that but there was no loss of power, smoke, low gas mileage or vibrating or any other symptoms after initial start up. I plan to take it to an auto parts store tomorrow (the car is at her work about 20 miles away) and get the code read. What I may be in for? I'm hoping its something simple. I told her to check the gas cap just in case.
View 24 RepliesI started my Accent this a.m. The Check Engine Light is on and it runs really rough. I left it here at my apartment - it's that bad. It's got 27k miles.
The only other thing to note is that it's been very cold (for Northern California anyway) - around 45 degrees F right now.
First-time poster, haven't had any problems with the accent except for a sun visor that was replaced under warranty last week. All scheduled services done at the Hyundai dealer.
I own a 2007 hyundai accent currently around 123,000 KM's I've got my check engine light on and it has been on for a few weeks now. The Code its giving me for it is P0446, ( Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit) Is what it is saying. I also notice when I put fuel in my car it does not want to start unless i turn the key over a few times or pump the gas pedal..? What to replace for this code?
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